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Unread 08-26-2013, 04:15 PM   #1
MEFISHTO
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: lafayette, louisiana
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2008 CRD PCM & Wiring Harness Problem

A little battery acid leaked on the harness and PCM. Dealer says thousands and thousands to repair.

They literally told me, "We'll need to pull the engine out to fix it properly. That will involve replacing three "computer" modules and all wiring harnesses. Then we'll place the engine back into the vehicle". When they told me the price, I nearly passed out.

I then asked what the least expensive option would be and they mentioned hard-wiring the harness to the PCM for a measly 3K

Really?

I have read some one and two question-answer posts here and there but hope to find real answers here.

I am very capable mechanically but not a professional.

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Unread 08-26-2013, 04:35 PM   #2
BAH101
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Did it actually cause damage? You could flood the area with baking power and water, that will neutralize the battery aid, then use an electrical contact cleaner to remove moisture from the connectors.
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Unread 08-26-2013, 04:48 PM   #3
sickchilly
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Some partial truth here depending upon how extensive the damage is on your particular vehicle. I'm going through a very similar situation with mine...

On mine, battery acid had gotten into the main PCM connector at some point in its previous life (the PCM is below the battery tray) and corroded it from the inside out. When they removed the PCM connector, several pins came out of the PCM with it! The PCM itself is just under $700 and only a dealer can program it and tune it to the CRD motor.

The engine wiring harness on mine also had some chaffing further up where it crosses the AC hard lines. And further to that, my swirl valve was throwing codes because hot oil had cooked that connector and the 5v reference line was shot on the harness. The engine wiring harness is around $700, the swirl valve motor is around $250. If they break the fragile swirl flap linkages doing the motor replacement, it's just under $500 each for new intake plenums. Some places include new intake plenums in the quote because there's a good chance they'll break them or replace them at the same time because it's easier.

Retail prices seem to have gone down dramatically on these parts recently. Back when I got my quote, the intake plenums were roughly $1700 a pair and the engine wiring harness was around $1500. Swirl motor used to be about $400. I just checked all these part prices online just now. Wonder why they dropped so much in the last couple months?

It is easier to do all this with the motor out because it is easier to do all this with the turbo removed and removing that is a real PITA with the motor in.

Luckily in my case, the shiz hit the fan literally 16 hours after I bought it. So the dealer I bought it from is fixing it. I have no idea why they decided to fix it instead of writing it off. I took it to another dealer before I returned it to them to get a second opinion. The initial estimate was $7200 parts and labor! Well over half what I bought the vehicle for. That was back in late May. Here we are over 14 weeks later and I still haven't seen it back. Supposedly it is running now and they are test driving it, but it is still throwing codes. Not surprising for as much as they had to replace and as deep as they went. Still, I'm about to demand they write it off and either find me a 2009 Overland Hemi or part ways.

Anyway, good luck.
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Unread 08-26-2013, 07:22 PM   #4
MEFISHTO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAH101 View Post
Did it actually cause damage? You could flood the area with baking power and water, that will neutralize the battery aid, then use an electrical contact cleaner to remove moisture from the connectors.
Not sure. I had the vehicle towed and the dealer said it was toast. I have cleaned, dried and re-attached the harness to PCM in the past and it worked fine. I could not easily pull the right harness off the PCM this time—It seemed stuck in place although it was very slick (raining a great deal). I did not have my tools where I was (400 miles away from home). Of the two harnesses, it's the one on the right as you look down into the engine compartment (one closest to the front (grill) of the vehicle). I'm certainly not paying a great deal of money to do all this work without looking at it myself. Any additional thought is appreciated.
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Unread 08-26-2013, 09:11 PM   #5
suzieque
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Some other crd owners have had the battery acid leak on the ecu. I guess the repair depends on how long the battery was leaking that determines the extent of the repair. I would do the suggested repair of washing down with baking soda and carefully remove the connections and see how bad the terminals are before letting the dealer tear into it.

I've owned many vehicles over the years and this is the first one where I've read about acid leaking causing ecu damage. I wonder if there is a batch fo defective batteries or is the alternator over charging...
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Unread 09-02-2013, 07:29 PM   #6
jediknight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suzieque
Some other crd owners have had the battery acid leak on the ecu. I guess the repair depends on how long the battery was leaking that determines the extent of the repair. I would do the suggested repair of washing down with baking soda and carefully remove the connections and see how bad the terminals are before letting the dealer tear into it.

I've owned many vehicles over the years and this is the first one where I've read about acid leaking causing ecu damage. I wonder if there is a batch fo defective batteries or is the alternator over charging...
According to dashawk readings... I get 14.3V and up to 14.6 ... Which Ithink is hight ?!

Thoughts ??
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Unread 09-02-2013, 07:32 PM   #7
sickchilly
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14.3-14.7 is pretty typical of any 12v alternator powered charging system.
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Unread 09-02-2013, 07:58 PM   #8
jediknight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sickchilly
14.3-14.7 is pretty typical of any 12v alternator powered charging system.
Sweet,
Thanks for confirming.
But I thought we should be looking at the mid 13 range ?
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Unread 09-02-2013, 08:01 PM   #9
sickchilly
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Nope, plenty normal. Here's a good read for you:
http://www.landiss.com/battery.htm
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Unread 09-02-2013, 08:20 PM   #10
suzieque
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jediknight View Post
According to dashawk readings... I get 14.3V and up to 14.6 ... Which Ithink is hight ?!

Thoughts ??
That's my reading on the dashhawk too.
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Unread 07-06-2014, 09:52 PM   #11
nikolab1980
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I got the same problem on my 2008 CRD guys , any help ,how your repair turned out MEFISTO ?
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Unread 08-04-2014, 07:34 PM   #12
nikolab1980
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Just fixed mine - 3 weeks at the dealer , 945 for the harness ,905 labor and I ask them to change the fuel filter - 86 dollars just the filter ( you can find it for 8-9 dollars elsewhere ) !!!!!!! All together - 2200 ........stupid design to put the ECM under the battery tray , right under the tray drain hole..........Sprinters got their under the driver seat , but Sprinters were design by Mercedes ! Thanks to sickchilly for the help & advice ,thanks bro !
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Unread 08-04-2014, 09:09 PM   #13
chevra
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Any way we can prevent this from happening? I didn't know it was under the battery until I seen this thread and I'm scared to look now. Would be nice to get that situation under control. Might have to take the battery out this week and take a look and hope for the best.
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Unread 08-05-2014, 02:12 AM   #14
chrali
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Why would you guys have acid leaks in the first place? I've had dozens of vehicles in 25 years, none of which leaked battery acid.

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Unread 08-05-2014, 11:11 AM   #15
nikolab1980
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I believe the original batteries installed were defective , cause from my web research I can see this is common problem with the CRDs , I got my 2008 WK in Oct. 2012 and it still had the original battery ( I changed it the next day ! ) , but was not able to see the damage had already done , because of the battery tray covering it.....

Last edited by nikolab1980; 08-05-2014 at 03:39 PM..
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