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-   -   2007 WK 3.0 CRD 80Kmi ETC CEL P0101 P0088 LIMP MODE (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/2007-wk-3-0-crd-80kmi-etc-cel-p0101-p0088-limp-mode-1443093/)

Jospwr 11-27-2012 01:16 PM

2007 WK 3.0 CRD 80Kmi ETC CEL P0101 P0088 LIMP MODE
 
1 Attachment(s)
Have had this problem for a year, or more.

Check engine light CEL is persistent. The electronic throttle control ETC comes on in cooler weather (say <65 degree F / 18 C) upon hard deceleration or modest acceleration and immediately goes into limp mode.

When in warmer weather, the ETC doesn't happen and car drives fine.

Codes kicked:

P0101 mass air flow sensor MAF

P0088 High fuel pressure

I go to a mechanic I like & trust (former Chevy dealership that was booted during gov't takeover/makeover), but they have limited turbodiesel experience.

They replaced the air filter, which was quite dirty, & cleared codes, which worked until cooler weather occurred.

They replaced MAF & cleared codes, drove for 30-35 miles - including hard braking & acceleration - in cooler weather, which seemed to work for mechanic. CEL & ETC showed when I started the car upon picking up.

Currently having them install brake pads and asked them to check fuel & PCV filters, as well as fuel cap. They weren't aware of P0088 code, until today.

There has to be a simple explanation. I apologize if this has been addressed, but 3+ hours of searching & reading has led me to start my own thread.

I'm starting to miss my 320Kmi 1996 Suburban.

NOTE: The dealer I was forced to use while under warranty in Cincinnati (since purchasing dealer was forced out in the Chrysler bankruptcy) is simply incompetent. Others are miles away or have bad reputations. Every local Mercedes Benz dealer has declined to look at my WK. I could use a solid recommendation for a diesel mechanic that can work on the 3.0 CRD & its controls. THANK YOU!


----------------------UPDATE---------------------

Mechanic called. While testing recently installed MAF, they noted that seals were corrupted by oil leaking into turbocharger/PCV area. They aren't sure of the cause or site of the leak, but suggested that they clean up what they can, reinstall, and for me to take to a Chrysler dealer (they recommend) to properly find leak & to install new seals. Mechanic has taken a photo of the area & leaked oil, which I will scan & upload, later.

I remember leaking oil & bad seals being cause of problems in other areas of forum and will try to find them for help on this problem, if related to MAF.


--------------------2nd UPDATE-------------------

Here's a photo showing oil covered turbo. Mechanic cleaned the oil & put back together. No ETC warning light or limp mode on the way home. Taking to dealer in a day or two & hoping for warranty repair.

DieselDevotion 11-27-2012 11:23 PM

The oil leak you have is a very common problem, you have an orange seal on your turbo inlet. There is a new updated design that uses a black seal and fixes the oil leak that is so common on these. The updated version will replace your current intake tube also. Not sure if this is a cause to your other problems but it is possible. A bad enough leak at your turbo inlet could have been sucking air there rather than from you air box and through your mass air flow sensor.

Jospwr 11-28-2012 10:20 AM

Thank you, DD!

Quote:

Originally Posted by DieselDevotion (Post 14519221)
The oil leak you have is a very common problem, you have an orange seal on your turbo inlet. There is a new updated design that uses a black seal and fixes the oil leak that is so common on these. The updated version will replace your current intake tube also. Not sure if this is a cause to your other problems but it is possible. A bad enough leak at your turbo inlet could have been sucking air there rather than from you air box and through your mass air flow sensor.


jaje 11-28-2012 11:42 AM

Check as there was TSB for this (it should have been a recall). You might get them to foot the bill on replacing this item at least.

Jospwr 11-28-2012 01:53 PM

JAJE: Thank you.

I've checked and may be too stoopid to know whther one has, or not. The closest TSB I could find is 11-001-07

NUMBER: 11-001-07
GROUP: Exhaust
DATE: February 7, 2007

Charge Air Cooler: A charge air cooler damaged by tools or external debris may leak air.

Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF): The mass air flow, measured and provided by the MAF is critical for calculations performed by the ECM and may result in several DTC’s related to the air intake system if not accurate.

Turbocharger: See Turbocharger Diagnostic Procedure below. Consider that an operating turbocharger creates a flow sound, which is normal and does not require replacement. Other sounds like whistling are potentially caused by the resonator or improper line connections.

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve: A sticking EGR valve influences the mass air flow causing implausibility with MAF, displaying one or more DTC's. For diagnostic procedures, refer to detailed DTC information available in TechCONNECT, Refer to 9 - Engine Electrical Diagnostics - Diesel. If no DTC's are displayed, refer to: 9 - Engine Electrical Diagnostics - Diesel > Checking The EGR System.


TURBOCHARGER DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE:

CAUTION: Do NOT try to move the actuator mechanism by pushing or pulling the connecting rod. There is a worm gear attached to the actuator
mechanism, which doesn’t allow any movement from its output side.

For diagnosis procedures, refer to detailed service information available in TechCONNECT, Refer to 9 - Engine Electrical Diagnostics - Diesel, Checking The Boost Servo Motor.

If step 5 of the diagnostic procedure indicates replace the Boost Pressure Servo Motor, then the Turbocharger/Boost Pressure Servo Motor unit must be replaced as an assembly.

NOTE: Never replace the Boost Pressure Servo Motor actuator only. The adjustment of the actuator mechanism is set at the factory with special equipment, and is critical for proper operation.


POLICY:
Information Only

Jospwr 11-28-2012 01:57 PM

Mopar Part 53013672AE AIR CLEANER TO TURBO HOSE

Dealer wanted $105.00. Found it online for $86.00, delivered.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/GENUINE-JEEP-...EDQ~~60_35.JPG

jaje 11-28-2012 03:50 PM

That is the one. It is also called the elephant hose (as it looks on ones' nose) mod. It prevents the ccv from running oil back into the turbo (reason why there is oil going in). There are some quick and easy modifications you can do to get it done cheaply and by yourself. Just some heater hose and connectors. There's several writeups in this forum as well.

Jospwr 11-30-2012 10:29 AM

FWIW: I decided to call a dealer with whom I've dealt in the past, but have given up hope on using, again. They did tell me that this problem WOULD have been covered under the 3 year / 36,000 mile warranty. An extended warranty purchased might cover it, too. No TSBs cover the repair, according to the dealer service rep.

Found lots of great info from others in the following link & thread (THANK YOU ALL!):

http://www.crdsite.com/turbo-seal-oil-leak-fix.html

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/c...l-leak-863459/

Due to receive the part on Dec 4th. Will post a follow-up after installation, but doubt I'll add anything better than what you'll find in the thread linked, above.

Jospwr 11-30-2012 11:22 AM

Question: After finally replacing the tube and cleaning up the previously spiiled oil & MAF, if needed, how do I test the swirl motor or know if I have a problem with it?

I have a sinking feeling that I am overly thrilled with a relatively cheap replacement of a part that MAY have caused a much more costly replacement of the swirl motor!

I am due to receive the new tube with better seal on Dec 4th and will install it soon after.

Codes currently kicked: P0101 mass air flow sensor MAF & P0088 High fuel pressure

Engine goes into limp mode with ETC light under heavy deceleration or modest acceleration in temperatures under 65 F / 18 C.

Are the codes I'm getting only cause by the compromised original orange seal, or is my swirl motor already done in? How will I be able to tell?

Chirpz 11-30-2012 12:02 PM

My suspecions
 
I highly suspect that your swirl motor is bad although the codes are not the usual ones....so Hmmmm. The limp mode and throttle position errors does match the symptoms. I have been down this road along with many others. The swirl motor is located right under that leak and it simply fills up with oil and goes bad, sometime intermittently. I have a thread about it and a search will produce much info about it.

There are 3 good solutions if your motor is bad and one bad solution.

1. Take it to a dealer and have them fix it. (Bad... $1200 to $3000 who knows)
2. Replace the motor and fix the leak yourself.
3. Disconnect the motor and install a resistor (This would be the quick and easy cheap test you are looking for.)
4. Install GDE Tune (Gives you more power, better mileage, deletes the swirl motor)

I did item TWO and later item 4 (wanted the power and mileage). I did these after getting a quote from a dealer that cost me $134 and 3 hours just for the quote. They quoted me $1250 if I was lucky and $3400 if I was unlucky. The lucky part had to do with whether or not they got the SM out without breaking the linkage....it is fragile. If you break the linkage you have to replace the intake manifolds and THEY remove the engine to do this. I did the job my self for under $400.00. If I had it to do over, I would just install the GDE Tune, but I did not know about it then.

Jospwr 11-30-2012 12:10 PM

Chirpz:

Just spent my time since posting the last question & now reading of your repair. WOW! Even though I would never attempt to follow your great instructions with my 9 fat thumbs & 1 relatively proficient nose-picker, I appreciate the knowledge that you give us all. THANK YOU!

Questions: GDE? How much and who & how does it install? Is it the obvious solution to a bad swirl motor?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chirpz (Post 14531986)
I highly suspect that your swirl motor is bad although the codes are not the usual ones....so Hmmmm. The limp mode and throttle position errors does match the symptoms. I have been down this road along with many others. The swirl motor is located right under that leak and it simply fills up with oil and goes bad, sometime intermittently. I have a thread about it and a search will produce much info about it.

There are 3 good solutions if your motor is bad and one bad solution.

1. Take it to a dealer and have them fix it. (Bad... $1200 to $3000 who knows)
2. Replace the motor and fix the leak yourself.
3. Disconnect the motor and install a resistor (This would be the quick and easy cheap test you are looking for.)
4. Install GDE Tune (Gives you more power, better mileage, deletes the swirl motor)

I did item TWO and later item 4 (wanted the power and mileage). I did these after getting a quote from a dealer that cost me $134 and 3 hours just for the quote. They quoted me $1250 if I was lucky and $3400 if I was unlucky. The lucky part had to do with whether or not they got the SM out without breaking the linkage....it is fragile. If you break the linkage you have to replace the intake manifolds and THEY remove the engine to do this. I did the job my self for under $400.00. If I had it to do over, I would just install the GDE Tune, but I did not know about it then.


Jospwr 11-30-2012 12:14 PM

Found the GDE "How much?"

Jospwr 11-30-2012 12:22 PM

And I see your answer to my "Obvious choice?" question:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chirpz (Post 14531986)
If I had it to do over, I would just install the GDE Tune, but I did not know about it then.

Thank you, again!

Chirpz 11-30-2012 07:13 PM

I have a thread for the GDE Tune....

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/g...-tune-1367173/

Also...here is a link to their web site.

http://www.greendieselengineering.co...do?method=home

It is pretty easy to install.... Not cheap, but a lot cheaper than having a dealer replace your swirl motor.

You probably want the "ECO" tune. It is $695.00 and includes the necessary tool to install it. Install takes about 10 minutes if you have done it before. 40 minutes is your reading directions and being way too careful.
No auto mechanics are required...it is all software done through the computer port.

Jospwr 12-14-2012 08:36 AM

Had mechanic replace the 53013672AE air cleaner to turbo hose, and clean up oil on & around the swirl motor, yesterday. They double-checked the mass air flow sensor range, cleared the codes, & test-drove for 20 miles. Cost of hose purchased online ($86) + mechanic ($85) = $171, total.

I picked up the car & put it through about an hour of driving, testing it by accelerating & downshifting somewhat harder than normal, with no problems. I was happy, or so I thought, until I was coasting down a 1/4 mile hill @ 30 mph, in traffic, when the check engine light & ETC lights came on, putting me into limp mode.

Codes thrown P0101 & P0088, again. Cleared the codes, just now, started the engine & let idle for 2 minutes, then re-checked. Code P0101 on meter w/out CEL ot ETC.

I don't regret the air hose repair, as it had to happen, obviously, but I still have issues.

I had written to GDE a, couple of weeks ago, with questions about their tune and got this back (& quickly - great customer service):

I would recommend the ECO tune for your application. The tune is not going to do anything for the P0088 code, this is your main issue and leading to a limp home most likely, or an engine shutdown.

I am attaching the flash tool instructions for your review.

Thanks
Keith
GDE Calibrator


Going to read up on P0088 error codes. Any help would be appreciated.


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