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Unread 05-01-2013, 11:04 AM   #16
suzieque
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tleeming View Post
Suzieque....I tried to send you a PM but your box is full
I deleted some email. I'm not an official paid "forum supporter" so I have a 10 message limit.

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2008 WK "S" Limited bright metallic silver exterior, light graystone interior, 5 speed W5J400 transmission, June 18/2008 build, C213RE rear differential with 3.73 axle ratio, C200FE front differential with 3.73 axle ratio, 245/60R18 Goodyear Fortera tires (stock summer tires), NV245 transfer case, GT2056V turbo, 3.0L CRD (OM642.980)
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Unread 05-01-2013, 11:06 AM   #17
tleeming
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OK...here is the video of the sound of the rattle on the 2007 JEEP GC CRD.
I loaded it up to YouTube
Hope this works.

Last edited by tleeming; 05-01-2013 at 11:11 AM.. Reason: wrong url
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Unread 05-01-2013, 01:02 PM   #18
jamie1131
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I've watched this a few times now. I'm still sceptical about it being the chain on such low miles. Could be a tensioner gone bad or not getting enough oil. Did this start after an oil change?
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Unread 05-01-2013, 01:07 PM   #19
jamie1131
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Here's a picture if the timing chain arrangement, only one tensioner but a few rubbing blades. The noise is normally the chain slapping against the rubbing blade as its not tight enough. I'm not sure about this one but you can manually click the tensioner in on some models. I'll try and find out if you can do this on the CRD
image-904064810.jpg  
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Unread 05-01-2013, 03:24 PM   #20
suzieque
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jamie has a good point. the service manual pages describe the tensioner as being hyrdaulic, though the picture jamie posted does not show it that way.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 08:59 PM   #21
suzieque
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I removed my oil fill cap and shown a flashlight down inside. I could see the timing chain tensioner pushing against the timing chain tensioner rail. It just looks like a bolt pressing against the plastic rail. You should be able to see the same thing.
Now, you can idle the engine with the oil fill cap off, but oil splashes out and makes a mess. Regardless, perhaps you could run it for a few seconds and see if the timing chain looks loose. Just keep some rags laid around the oil fill hole when the cap is off so that you can clean up the mess.
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2008 WK "S" Limited bright metallic silver exterior, light graystone interior, 5 speed W5J400 transmission, June 18/2008 build, C213RE rear differential with 3.73 axle ratio, C200FE front differential with 3.73 axle ratio, 245/60R18 Goodyear Fortera tires (stock summer tires), NV245 transfer case, GT2056V turbo, 3.0L CRD (OM642.980)
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Unread 05-02-2013, 09:21 AM   #22
Radcrd
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And wear safety googles Have you pulled your turbo inlet hose to make sure no turbo vanes broke loose and are rattling around? They would likely get caught in the Intercooler if that was the case so probably not relevant. Could there be any loose bolts rattling on the backside of your engine? Trying to eliminate the easy stuff before you tear down...
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Unread 05-02-2013, 12:33 PM   #23
10Xk
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Here you go!

http://www.wkjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wk_0900108.pdf
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Unread 05-02-2013, 12:41 PM   #24
suzieque
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10Xk View Post
yup, good catch, that could be it.
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Unread 05-02-2013, 03:29 PM   #25
tleeming
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Thanks for the suggestions folks.
I had read that TSB before but because the noise appears to be coming from the timing chain area and I don't hear anything coming from the base of the engine, I discounted it.
I have heard main bearings knocking before and it never sounded like that.
Worth a rethink...thanks 10Xk
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Unread 05-02-2013, 03:32 PM   #26
jamie1131
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Doesn't sound like mains to me either, thats usually more if a knock/slap than a rattle/vibration
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Unread 05-02-2013, 03:55 PM   #27
10Xk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamie1131
Doesn't sound like mains to me either, thats usually more if a knock/slap than a rattle/vibration
SUBJECT:
3.0L Diesel Engine Tick, Rattle Or Knock Sound

What's that???

OP: easy the eliminate. Remove accessory belt as stated in TSB. If sound goes away its the main, if it stays keep looking.
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Unread 05-02-2013, 05:19 PM   #28
suzieque
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Yeah i guess if the serpentine belt is off, there will not be any stress on the bearing itself at certain rpm.
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2008 WK "S" Limited bright metallic silver exterior, light graystone interior, 5 speed W5J400 transmission, June 18/2008 build, C213RE rear differential with 3.73 axle ratio, C200FE front differential with 3.73 axle ratio, 245/60R18 Goodyear Fortera tires (stock summer tires), NV245 transfer case, GT2056V turbo, 3.0L CRD (OM642.980)
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Unread 05-09-2013, 12:50 AM   #29
tleeming
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Well, I'm heading out of the country for a couple of weeks and the problem will have to wait till I get back. I had a look at the serpentine belt removal and I'm not sure I'm feeling confident enough to do that! I can hardly even see the darn thing let alone remove it.
So, hopfully I can find a diesel mechanic to do the work, preferably not the dealership.
Thanks for all your help..I will keep you posted
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Unread 05-09-2013, 09:27 AM   #30
Radcrd
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Its not that difficult. Took me 20 mins to change mine. There are some hidden bolts to remove the intake resonator. There is a post here somewhere on how to remove and change belt.
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2007 WK CRD QDII, GDE HOT tune. 275/55/18'' on Sahara's, SRT8 suspension.
2000 Jetta TDI (hers)
2006 Liberty CRD (sold)
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