2005 Transmission cooler line leak - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 103 Old 02-06-2011, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
wkorbust
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Took some pictures of the new part. These might help illustrate what the veterans are talking about when they say cut at the metal part and replace the rubber hose. The part was only $40 bucks, but swapping out just the hose part would save time in routing the hard metal lines, which are not leaking.

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post #17 of 103 Old 02-06-2011, 09:21 PM
lagonwagon
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Awesome pics! Clears up a lot. Thank you.

2007 WK Limited (white), QDII, Hemi, OME HD lift, JBA UCA's, Treadwright Guard Dogs 32.25's, Fuel wheels, K&N CAI, BT catch can, 4xGuard rails & belly skid, Saguaro 4x front shackle mounts, tow hitch shackle mount (SOLD)
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post #18 of 103 Old 02-06-2011, 10:53 PM
08Titan
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I would prefer to go the "cut and clamp" method due to being easier and cheaper but after looking at the pics of the line it doesn't look like there's enough room to get two hose clamps on each end, to double clamp it, before the bends in thehard line.

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post #19 of 103 Old 02-07-2011, 06:34 AM
JMorash
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3/8 fuel line you can route it up past the bends if you want. Clamp one down on the straight, and two up top around the pipe bend. A sure way to know you sealed that mofo on there.

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post #20 of 103 Old 02-07-2011, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
wkorbust
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMorash View Post
3/8 fuel line you can route it up past the bends if you want. Clamp one down on the straight, and two up top around the pipe bend. A sure way to know you sealed that mofo on there.
Especially since you need a specialty tool to get that metal line out. Its a 'quick disconnect' design and requires a key to get it out. http://millerspecialtools.spx.com/De...x?id=654&gid=0

Awesome that aamco changed from drop off and pick up same day to drop off and pick up tomorrow. Call me paranoid about leaving my vehicle anywhere overnight. We have had 'issues' in the past with dealers where techs decided to 'borrow' a vehicle and drove home. I'll be doing this myself once I figure out some way to fabricate that tool. Next time I'm clamping.
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post #21 of 103 Old 02-07-2011, 10:28 AM
jstand22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkorbust View Post
Took some pictures of the new part. These might help illustrate what the veterans are talking about when they say cut at the metal part and replace the rubber hose. The part was only $40 bucks, but swapping out just the hose part would save time in routing the hard metal lines, which are not leaking.
Where are they leaking from? Most commonly they leak from the crimp fittings where the rubber line meets the steel line.
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post #22 of 103 Old 02-07-2011, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
wkorbust
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Originally Posted by jstand22 View Post
Where are they leaking from? Most commonly they leak from the crimp fittings where the rubber line meets the steel line.
That is the spot. Well, that is the 'first' spot I see leaking ATF from. I haven't dug deeper to see if there are any leaks at the quick disconnect spots. I never saw any drips on the ground where I park and only noticed the leak because I saw residue underneath when I was re-greasing my bushings.
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post #23 of 103 Old 02-07-2011, 02:02 PM
Nejeep
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Anybody tried splitting the metal hose crimp and just pulling the old hose off the metal tube so you don't have to cut the tube? It would give you more tube to work with and I think there is a bump in the tube under the crimp to resist the hose from sliding off. Not sure how to split the crimp on the jeep, maybe a dremmel or small angle grinder?
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post #24 of 103 Old 02-07-2011, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
wkorbust
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I'm taking the shortcut route (no pun intended). All parts from advanced autoparts.

Fuel injected hose line
PI-504/301111

Fuel injected hose clamps x 2 sets, so 4 clamps per hose.
AC52F16V

Anyone see any problem with using these parts? Also, how much ATF fluid should I plan on dripping out when I cut the lines?
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post #25 of 103 Old 02-07-2011, 03:04 PM
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F. This is my next project as well. I noticed some red in the snow sitting on the bracket for my 4xguard forward skid. Ugh. Atleast now I have a suspect.
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post #26 of 103 Old 02-07-2011, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
wkorbust
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This is going to turn in to a DIY. I used a PVC pipe cutter to slide up in there and snip the two lines at top and bottom. Maybe 2 tablespoons worth of ATF leaked out in to my oil catch pan. Pictures to come for those who follow.
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post #27 of 103 Old 02-07-2011, 05:04 PM
JMorash
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I used a fein tool to cut the crimp ends off. The tool is also known as a multi ocilating tool.
butwhat likes this.

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post #28 of 103 Old 02-07-2011, 07:04 PM
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I'm cutting the clamps as well, no need to replace perfectly good steel lines.
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post #29 of 103 Old 02-07-2011, 07:15 PM
08Titan
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I'm gonna be going this route myself because why spend $40 on lines that'll leak again in a year or two when I could spend probably less than ten bucks on something that'll probably last the life of the jeep. And from what I've seen and read it's not a specialty tool to remove the lines, they're just held in with a c-clip looking thing. They said you just push in on the line a little and pop that clip out.

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post #30 of 103 Old 02-07-2011, 07:15 PM
Acidcold
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Something like this might work as well. http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...ooler-fittings
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