2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 limited overheating when idle ? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 23 Old 09-12-2013, 01:44 AM Thread Starter
oman_cobra
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2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 limited overheating when idle ?

Good day to you all, my 2005 GC 5.7 Limited overheats when there is traffic and its still, and then cools as soon as the traffic starts moving

some times it gets too close the red limiter which concerns me

strange is that when I open the bonnet there is no smoke or burn smell

the engine & trans oil has been changed,

any help ?


what are the areas / parts i should keep in mind that needs change / fixing ?

thanks !

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post #2 of 23 Old 09-12-2013, 08:26 AM
skrach77
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Sounds to me like a few possible things...


Start by checking the coolant level, sounds like air trapped in the system. Also check that the fan is running when idling.

Could be a bad thermostat or weak water pump also. What motor and how many miles do you have?
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post #3 of 23 Old 09-12-2013, 12:58 PM
ajxj9197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skrach77
. What motor and how many miles do you have?
He has the 5.7

Also I agree with everything he said. This are the most common overheating causes on most vehicles.
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post #4 of 23 Old 09-12-2013, 07:06 PM
skrach77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajxj9197

He has the 5.7
I'm an idiot and completely missed that from the 1st post! My bad!
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post #5 of 23 Old 09-12-2013, 08:23 PM
rneal55555
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It's in the WJ section but I think most of it applies

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/2...-idle-1577849/
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post #6 of 23 Old 09-12-2013, 09:12 PM
WieSeL
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Sounds like a fan issue. Has airflow while moving but no airflow when sitting in traffic. That would be a fan issue not pulling air while not driving. Bad thermostat would overheat 5 minutes after started and wouldn't go down with vehicle movement. Water pumps don't really go bad as far as flow, the bearing goes bad or they leak. The fan on the 5.7 is hydraulic. Agree check the stupid stuff first like coolant level then check the fan speed with engine idling. It most likely needs a fan assy.
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post #7 of 23 Old 09-30-2013, 10:56 PM
TrailStarved
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2006 5.7 Overheating, leaking coolant

Oman,

Same here. At my last service within my extended warrantee, I mentioned my P0521 codes, oil pressure lamp, frequent need to add coolant, and what appeared to be a tranny fluid leak (don't recall where: I just wanted it gone before my warrantee expired). As typical, I walked out of there with little to nothing covered by warrantee- only racking up $2000+ in related and unrelated non-warrantee costs. And my oil issue (as expected, not able to reproduce, but still alleged due to sludge) and leaks still occur. Last extended warrantee spend ever in my life.

So anyway, the coolant leak got much worse lately and it seemed the fan was not kicking in with A/C at idle. So with some (apparently not enough) reading up here, I thought the water pump sounded suspicious, and replaced it. I have not completed the repair, because I didn't like how the idler bearings felt:
1. I think the main coolant leak was at the thermostat housing. The dealer had replaced the stat. But I noticed that the molded gasket on the stat seemed compromised. AND, I've seen contradictory drawings (Chrysler) omitting and aftermarket (AutoZone, etc) showing a flat gasket between the T-stat housing and the water pump, in addition to the stat. Can anyone say whether or not it belongs? Or, was my stat seal just distorted?
2. My fan hub appears to have an "outer race" and "inner race" with about 5 or 6 large ball bearing between them. This could not be normal, could it?!
3. I just noticed that my power steering fluid was just below "ADD." I previously thought nothing of this, until I studied up on the fan's hydraulic circuit running thru the power steering pump. Hmmm... And on that note:
4. My power steering pump has about 5mm of axial play. Come to think of it, my steering has been heavy at times. Come to think of it, at one time recently when I hit Neutral and cut engine power at 55 to cool the engine, steering was shockingly heavy, even off-power.

So, I'll report when I get the idler. But any suggestions based on the hydraulics or the gasket (missing or not)?

Thanks!
-Chris
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post #8 of 23 Old 10-01-2013, 06:19 PM
ttusqrl
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Can you actually hear your fan kick on and go into overdrive once it goes over the midway point on the temp gauge? I had this happened and checked my coolant which was non existant. I filled it back up and next thing I knew it was gone. Turned out I had a cracked radiator. You might check your radiator for spray (white marks) to see if that is causing the issue.

2005 WK 5.7 ORT | Mod SL (OME struts & 990s) | JBA UCAs & Discos | Saguaro Front Bumper | Warn Zeon 10s | 285/70/17 BFG TA KO | AIRAID CAI | Gibson 3" Exhaust | DiabloSport Intune | JL Stealthbox
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post #9 of 23 Old 10-07-2013, 02:09 PM
TrailStarved
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Finished water pump swap. Also replaced T-stat. So far so good re: leaks, and no overheating (though it IS cooler out). But, still troubles:

1. CE light + P0480 code. (Neglected to say this before, but coincided with overheating, etc from beginning)
2. NOW, A/C does not blow cold.

Some other points to make clear:

A. As suggested, checked P/S fluid. Was at LOW. Added fluid to "FULL." No change.
B. I had recently brought it in for tune-up before warrantee expiration. Dealer noted transmission cooler line leak and oil leak near oil sending unit and replaced lines. Also replaced the thermostat and "gasket" (which I traced to be my new coolant leak, and replaced again).
C. When turning on A/C, relay click can be heard, but no discernible change in fan sound noted.

Any ideas, fellas? I'm afraid to take it back to dealer, as they clearly made the "leak at thermostat" worse, and I'm now fully out of warrantee (for what that's worth).
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post #10 of 23 Old 10-07-2013, 02:25 PM
yzjwk
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P0480 = COOLING FAN 1 CONTROL CIRCUIT
Set Condition:
An open or shorted circuit is detected in the radiator fan relay control circuit. One Trip Fault. Three good trips
to turn off the MIL.

Check 50A fuse #23 and the low speed radiator fan control relay in the integrated power module . swap the relay with another of the same value and check operation or put an ohm meter between pins 85 and 86 on the relay , the resistance should be 60-80 ohms .

The integrated power module is the fuse box closest to the battery , under the hood .

5 and counting :05 WK 5.7 HEMI
90 YJ Islander 4.2L
94 ZJ Ltd 5.2 ,00 WJ 4.0
2010 MK Patriot
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post #11 of 23 Old 10-07-2013, 02:43 PM
TrailStarved
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Thanks YSJWK.


Fuse 23 is 20A, says FCDM. But checked anyway and it's OK. No relays in Rad Fan- Hi or Low. You talking about the HEMI with the hydraulic fan?
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post #12 of 23 Old 10-07-2013, 04:04 PM
yzjwk
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the 20 Amp FDCM fuse is in the power distribution center and not the integrated power module , but it looks like it's all moot anyways . I was following the service manual which did not indicate a specific engine , but i went and looked and my Hemi does not have the 50A fuse or Rad fan relays either. sorry to steer you wrong there .I'm not sure what that DTC is supposed to point you to if there is no fan control relay .
here's the info on how the fan is supposed to operate , but without the starscan tool , i'm not sure how you could tell what speed your fan is moving at .

HYDRAULIC FAN STRATEGY
The hydraulic radiator cooling fan is controlled by the FCM. A PWM (Pulse With Modulated) signal from the JTEC
controls the fan speed. There are four inputs to the FCM that determine what speed percentage of fan is required
by the vehicle. These inputs are:
Engine Coolant Temperature
Transmission Oil Temperature
A/C System Pressure
By monitoring these three parameters, the FCM can determine if cooling airflow is required. If airflow is required, the
FCM will slowly ramp up (speed up) the fan speed until the parameter(s) are under control. Once the temperature
or pressure is reduced to within operating parameters the fan will ramp up, ramp down, or hold its speed to maintain
the temperature / pressure requirements.
NOTE: Even if the FCM is not requesting fan on operation the fan blade will usually spin between 100 and
500 RPM when the vehicle is at idle. This is due to a controlled minimum oil flow requirement through the
fan drive motor.

5 and counting :05 WK 5.7 HEMI
90 YJ Islander 4.2L
94 ZJ Ltd 5.2 ,00 WJ 4.0
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post #13 of 23 Old 10-08-2013, 01:47 PM
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Check the plug on the hydraulic fan motor. I just had to replace the pressure line to the motor and loosened the plug. I got the same code instantly upon startup. Reseated the plug and 3 startup slight out and damn working fine.

96 ZJ.
05' Grand Cherokee Limited, 2"OME lift
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post #14 of 23 Old 10-08-2013, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnerman
Check the plug on the hydraulic fan motor. I just had to replace the pressure line to the motor and loosened the plug. I got the same code instantly upon startup. Reseated the plug and 3 startup slight out and damn working fine.
3 start up cycles and the fan works fine. The plug is on the passenger side of the fan motor connected to solenoid valve that controls fluid flow thru the motor.

96 ZJ.
05' Grand Cherokee Limited, 2"OME lift
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post #15 of 23 Old 04-07-2014, 05:52 PM
TrailStarved
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Bump please

Fellas,

Still have my P0480 error. Checked connector, and seems OK. But I noticed that the center outlet of the 3 in the hydraulic motor (viewed from below as in the attached picture) is loose. I can turn it freely and pivot around 10degrees. Could this be a problem?

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Also, I can hear a click when I turn on the air, but couldn't this be the A/C compressor? It's hard for me to listen on-demand for the solenoid to open based on temp.

1 Last question: I see 5-7 bearing balls that seem to be randomly captured (tightly) between the fan ID and the cylinder concentrically within this (which I would assume is connected to the clutch). Are these 1/4" balls just spacers, or the remains of a destroyed roller bearing?

Thanks in advance!
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