Hi guys, I have a question that I hope you all can help with. I have a 05 Grand Cherokee 2wd, 3.7. I am trying to do the rear brakes, well changing the pads and rotors. I did the front already, but can't for the life of me figure out how to do the rear ones. I got the two bolts on the far side off, but the pads wouldn't budge. I unscrewed a third bolt and brake fluid started coming out. I've changed brakes tens of times in the past, and while the fronts were not the breeze that other cars are, it was fairly straight forward. If you all can, give me step by step, laymans terms directions to do this, preferably something i can print from this thread and take outside to the driveway to get this done. I already have all the tools, but just need instructions. Thanks in advance guys.
REAR DISC BRAKE PADS
1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove rear wheel and tire assembly.
3. Drain small amount of fluid from master cylinder brake reservoir with a clean suction gun.
4. Bottom caliper pistons into the caliper by prying the
5. Remove the caliper slide pins (4).
6. Remove caliper (1) from the anchor.
7. Secure caliper (1) to nearby suspension part with
wire. Do not allow brake hose to support caliper
8. Remove the inboard & outboard brake pads from the caliper.
REAR DISC BRAKE PADS
1. Install the inboard & outboard brake pads onto the
2. Lubricate the slide pins and slide pin bushings with
caliper slide grease or the grease provided with the
3. Install caliper (1) on the anchor.
4. Install the caliper slide pin bolts (4) and tighten to
25 N·m (18 ft. lbs.).
5. Install wheel and tire assembly.
6. Remove support and lower vehicle.
7. Pump brake pedal until caliper piston and brake
pads are seated and a firm brake pedal is
8. Fill brake fluid level if necessary.
I have always used c-clamps to compress the pistons, but I suppose with enough leverage you could use a flat head.
Yeah, I don't follow the manual on that either. I always use a clamp as well. You will have to pry the caliper off the rotor if you don't bottom the piston though. There's usually a raised edge or a band of rust on the rotor that will prevent the caliper from coming off after removing the bolts.
If you do the C-clamp method be sure to leave the old pad on when compressing so you don't damage the piston.
Thanks for the quick replies guys. U know what, I think the caliper my have a fine amount of rust thats preventing it from coming off easily. The front rotor was frozen so I had to get a heavy duty bolt and some nuts to effectively screw it to build pressure againt the rotor to pop it off, man when it did pop off, it made a very loud pop and a large amount of rust dropped to the ground, it was glorious, lol. So definitely gonna try that. Another thing, I am a safety nut, I know for a fact that the e-brake is engaged because i pulled the lever for it back myself. Even though i use jack stands and still use the old-school tire and wheel under the truck method as well, i still engage the e-brake. Not tomorrow, time to live a little, lol. Will report back on the progress. Thanks again guys.
Hey guys, I ended up doing the rear brakes today with the help of my younger brother. I wanted to say thanks for all the help from you all. I had a few minor issues, but because of your help, it went off without a hitch. Was able to change the rear pads and the rotors. Again, thanks guys and I look forward to returning to the forum in the future.
What's the point of sucking out a little brake fluid? To get the dirty brake fluid out that tends to accumulate in the caliper?
As your pads wear down more brake fluid is drawn from the reservoir down to the caliper. Typically when you get your oil changed the brake fluid is topped off so the reservoir is always full. If you don't suck a little brake fluid out then when you compress the piston on the caliper, and force the fluid back up through the brake line, the reservoir will overflow.