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Unread 05-29-2012, 10:02 AM   #1
rickbob
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2005 Grand Cherokee 5.7 will not start...again

I have lurked on the forum for a couple of years and now I believe it is time to tell my story and see if I can get some direct advice.

Back in the summer of 2010 my jeep was intermittently not starting. It would turn over, and never crank. It seemed electronic or fuel pump related. I have had some trouble with my key fob, and thought it might even be related to the remote entry. I had it taken to an independent mechanic, who I wanted to work out, because they were a stone’s throw from my office. They told me that it was my IPM. The fix was relatively inexpensive, but the part led to losing my Jeep for three months because of a national back order on the part. It was fixed, not satisfactorily. There were arguments regarding the IMP having fuses- the mechanic insisted it did not. My dashboard lights such as the airbag lights were now coming on and the mechanic said they would diagnose it for additional fees. I did not let them, thinking this problem did not exist before.
Within a couple of weeks my jeep would not start again. Frustrated I opened the IMP and saw there were indeed fuses, and jiggled two that seemed to be off kilter. My jeep started and the dashboard lights went off! However the jeep would have the starting issue again sporadically. I began actually unplugging the IPM to reset the computer. I later learned I could perhaps disconnect the battery and press the brake to do this, but it did not seem to work. Perhaps the time it took me to disconnect the IPM gave the computer the time it needed to reset?
Sometimes the vehicle would go a few months with no problem until a few weeks ago. The problem happened again and I could not get the car started back. The dealer ship was backlogged and could not get to it for a week so I took it to a Toyota center who was also authorized by my insurance to repair a damaged bumper (less than 10mph accident that from over a year ago). They have also done great work, inexpensively for my girlfriend and cut her deals (she’s cute). This mechanic said it was the fuel pump. I asked multiple times if it could be computer related and they insisted “no.” The fuel pump lines had backorder issues for two weeks. Then they fixed it, called and said it was the ECM, or ECU. They charged around $1200 for the fuel pump- parts plus 6 hours, and now want an additional $1000 for the ECM. I am skeptical they know anymore about this than I and are solving problems through replacing the most expensive parts first. I am now on the fence about having it towed back home and tracing the issues myself, my only concern being the dealer having to flash a new computer once I get it fixed.
From looking at the boards this could be a Crank position Sensor, Fuel pump relay, etc. It could still be a key related issue- as I was having even worse problems recently trying to use the remote- i.e. sometimes the doors would only unlock half way or other suspicious things.
Does anyone have advice on how to proceed with my diagnostics in the most economical way? Is there a way to get a dealership to truly look at the small issues first, or can they even tell?
Thanks so much in advance.
-Todd

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Unread 05-29-2012, 10:04 AM   #2
rickbob
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Also- LED's in the radio and dash have flickered when the lights are on since I have owned the vehicle.
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Unread 05-29-2012, 10:23 AM   #3
JRLT
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How old is the battery? We replaced the battery on our 05 last fall after it wouldn't turn over but had enough juice to power the system. Fired right up with new battery.
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Unread 05-29-2012, 11:45 AM   #4
BonesWK
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the "all lights on my dash" have me thinking ignition switch. But thats just me. I bought a new Mopar one and swapped it out took about 40$ and 30 minutes.

No issues to date for my christmas tree dash issue.
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Unread 05-29-2012, 12:17 PM   #5
rickbob
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The dash is not lighting up with any errors, only the LED's are blinking when the lights are on. I have considered that this might be ignition switch or the switch relay. Is there a way to test without replacing?
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Unread 05-30-2012, 05:38 AM   #6
zach1104
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I had a very similar issue while I was 400 miles from home towing a boat. The out of town dealer used the "throw a part at it" technique and claimed it to be fixed, but the problem came back. Luckily I was less than 50 miles from home at this point. Next, I took it to the dealer I bought it from and they found a loose connection on the starter and now it has been over a year and no problems.

Also, I was able to complain to Chrysler corporate and get a refund on the original 400 dollars I was charged unnecessarily for an ignition switch I didn't need.

Check the connections around the starter.

Good Luck!
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Unread 05-30-2012, 06:30 AM   #7
rickbob
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I think I will have it towed back to the house and start looking at connections. The starter is working fine. I am just not getting fire. The way the math is working at this point I can replace most all of the symptoms including the computer for less than the mechanic has quoted me for the computer. I am just scared of having to have the jeep towed backed to the dealer to flash the computer, or missing something that starts me back down a bad path with a dealership again.
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Unread 05-30-2012, 06:36 AM   #8
BonesWK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickbob View Post
The dash is not lighting up with any errors, only the LED's are blinking when the lights are on. I have considered that this might be ignition switch or the switch relay. Is there a way to test without replacing?
I think the blinking LED's was attributed to a bad stalk. Try looking for a post about changing the light stalk on the left side of the steering wheel.
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Unread 05-30-2012, 07:16 AM   #9
rickbob
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Awesome! Thanks!
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Unread 01-06-2014, 09:14 AM   #10
NUCadet87
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2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee has power but wont start

I have had a similar issue with my wife's Jeep. It turns over and over but will not fire. This is the 5.7L V8 Hemi. After a bit of time it will start but a week ago it would not so I brought it to my mechanic. He did a full diagnostic on it and it gave him codes for the ECU. He found that everything had power but there was one relay that was not getting power through it. The ASM (Automatic Shutdown Module) He called for the scematic for the wiring harness was told that my car did not have an ASM. He told them it did and they again said no. He saw that it was right next to the HVAC module and they appeared to be the same part and pinout so he said to send him one of those. He plugged it in and it started right up. That part runs about $150.
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Unread 01-19-2015, 04:49 AM   #11
rockbox
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I do have the same issue, as I will wake up my HEMI in the morning with no any issues till it gets wormed up and drive for 30 mints to work, so if I tried starting my jeep after this period of driving I will have the below symptoms:
- ECT gage will fall down.
- Security light will start flashing.
- Engine will not crank.
-Transmission Over temperature message will be displayed.
- Service electronic break system.
-service 4WD system.

If I kept my jeep to cold own for a while for like 45 minute it would start normally back with no issues.

However if I did the below:

Remove the battery and wait for a few minutes or removed the PCM fuse and returned it back I will get the car started ok Or/and I might get it started with the below symptoms:
-Gearbox in limp mode.
- Gearbox will shift pretty harsh as if it is in the overheat shifting schedule.
- Gearbox will shift super softly and lots of clutch slippage.

On the other hand I have searched for this issue and found out that the connectors on the PCM are made of plastic and by time it gets expanded and with the excess heat in the engine bay the PCM pins and the connectors will have a separation, to solve this issue I have had to find a solution for something that will keep the connectors pushed in the PCM so I used a tie rap to solve it and it did solve the issue and made the jeep run more responsive, Moreover you need to make sure the gearbox connectors are just fine and cleaned.

I totally agree with you opinion gents that a tie rap is not a solution however I would love to see a creative ideas,
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Unread 01-21-2015, 07:22 AM   #12
jbarrett
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It's the battery. This Jeep, particularly the 5.7, is incredibly picky about the battery. If your battery isn't in absolutely tip-top shape, it will casue issues.
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Unread 02-03-2015, 05:45 PM   #13
Gelso
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2005 Jeep 5.7L 109,000mi. Jeep had been running well for 2 months, then would not start on first cold morning ~20degF. Key on gave only a click at the starter relay (this was not the starter solenoid). No crank. Removed driver side tire and wheel shroud, breaking plastic fasteners. This opens a small access window to the top of the starter. But a heat shield blocks access to be able to view the constant-hot lead and yellow wire to solenoid trigger (this is the metal tab). So underneath the Jeep on the driver side, nestled above the drive shaft and the exhaust manifold, is bolted (with 2 15mm bolts) the starter with the solenoid riding piggyback. Attached to outboard side of starter is the heat shield which is bolted with 2 10mm bolts. Removed heat shield. Now back at the window I can see that yellow wire on the metal tab has slid back, probably not making metal-to-metal contact. Suspect connector worked loose overtime and thermal contraction from low temperature was the straw that broke the proverbial camel's back. Re-connected yellow wire to tab, hearing a firm click as I pushed it onto the tab. Re-attached battery leads and the Jeep started with no problem.

The rest of the story: my troubleshooting didn't go as smoothly as depicted above. Actually removed the starter/solenoid and had it tested - it passed, but made a slight grinding sound so I replaced it for $80. Had to drop front end of driveshaft at universal joint (four 15mm bolts) and remove exhaust sensor to allow access to remove starter's two 15 mm bolts. Found a ratcheting box end wrench to be helpful. Tested yellow wire in key on and found it had 12volts; ditto for the constant-on connection. All told spent $100 and 3 days lying on my back on a cold concrete driveway. Really is a nightmare to figure out how to contort one's body and to come up with the right combination of socket extensions, breaker bar, wrenches....hope this helps.

I had a crank but no start problem 2 months ago. Thought it was the fuel pump (dealer wanted to replace the ECM for $1200). Dropped tank and tested fuel pump, after eliminating the fuses and relays. The fuel pump was strong. Cut wire running from fuel pump relay to connector at pump - zero amps with ignition on. Continuity check of wire - failed. Ran new wire from relay to fuel pump connector. Jeep fired up strong. Not sure why a wire in a bundle would break.
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Unread 02-17-2015, 11:54 AM   #14
ryno2020
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I am having the same problem as most people who have posted in this forum. I get a clicking sound and say a prayer after 5 minutes hoping that it will start and it normally will turnover after the 15th try. I had my battery and starter tested and both were fine. I replaced the starter relay hoping that would cure the problem and it did not. After calling around to auto repair shops and getting quotes that ranged anywhere from 300-800+, I ran into a mechanic that said he had serviced over 50 Jeep Grand Cherokees with the same problem. He said the issue is with the connection the starter that builds up corrosion with the jeeps. He said that after cleaning the starter and replacing some wiring it fixes the problem. He quoted me at $125 to fix the problem. I will be taking in tomorrow and post a follow up. Do not let the dealerships take advantage of you and bait you in to replacing the starting or alternator as this seems to be the common theme in the 2005 Jeeps. Hope this helps
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Unread 02-17-2015, 12:19 PM   #15
tom19511
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If you are handy, you can replace the connection yourself for about 25 cents. Corrosion builds up between the pinched part of the connector and the wire
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2005 , 5.7 , grand cherokee , hemi , no start

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