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Unread 07-28-2014, 09:39 AM   #1
mbaier91
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100k Maintenance checklist

Hi everyone I just wanted to check to see if I was missing anything that I will need for my maintenance program at 100k. 2005 jeep wk limited hemi.

differentials: 6 quarts royal purple 75w140, 2 bottles mopar friction mod, bottle pump, 14mm allen wrench, oil resistant black rtv gasket maker

tcase: 2 quarts mopar tcase fluid for n245, 10mm hex socket

transmission: the two mopar filters plus mopar atf rtv, mopar atf +4 2 gallons

egr valve and pcv valve

16 champion 570 spark plugs, dielectric grease

cooling: 2 gallons zerek g05, new thermostat

What else am I missing? Also what is the preferred way for changing ALL of the transmission fluid? Do I need a marine suction pump to remove fluid and then drop the pan?

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Unread 07-28-2014, 12:50 PM   #2
attaboyy
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Transmission is standard drain, replace filters, and refill regardless of mileage. You have all the standard stuff listed, other nice to haves might be your MAP and Air Intake Temperature sensors .. they get "slow" with age before going bad/throw codes, I just replaced mine at 60k miles just to be sure since my throttle body was so dirty. They are really easy to change and are @$20-$30 each. The EGR/PCV made the biggest difference in my ride, if you've never changed yours at 100k then those are a must do
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Unread 07-28-2014, 01:05 PM   #3
caulk04
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You don't have a MAF sensor on any WK Jeep. Hemi also has no TPS, built-in circuitry with the DBW throttle body. The others aren't a bad idea to replace but I wouldn't bother really, that's up to you.

You won't need 6qt of gear lube, 4 should be enough. Get 5 if you want to be extra safe. Personal preference - Skip the purple crap. Big marketing buisness, though my preferrred Mobil1 isn't much better.
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Unread 07-28-2014, 01:54 PM   #4
mbaier91
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I just go the royal purple because it was cheaper than mobil1 and mopar but was still full synthetic. From my understanding by just dropping the pan and replacing the filters and refilling you only get 50% of the old tranny fluid out because a lot is left in the torque converter? How do I get all of the old tranny fluid out?
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Unread 07-28-2014, 04:40 PM   #5
caulk04
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You can't.

I would recommend installing a transgo shift kit while you're in there. It's only a few bolts and a wiring connector to drop the valve body and it's quite simple to do. Doesn't make it slam shifts or anything, just freshens up the seals on the accumulators and reinforces the accumulator cover plate. It's a good idea.

Dropping the VB also get's a little more fluid out of the trans.
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Unread 07-29-2014, 03:42 AM   #6
unobtanium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caulk04 View Post
You don't have a MAF sensor on any WK Jeep. Hemi also has no TPS, built-in circuitry with the DBW throttle body. The others aren't a bad idea to replace but I wouldn't bother really, that's up to you.

You won't need 6qt of gear lube, 4 should be enough. Get 5 if you want to be extra safe. Personal preference - Skip the purple crap. Big marketing buisness, though my preferrred Mobil1 isn't much better.
These jeeps are not at ALL what I am used to coming from GM.

Anyway, what sensors does my Jeep have? 2010 5.7L HEMI

I already did:

Plugs
PCV
Air filter
Serpentine belt
Transmission fluid/filters
Diff fluid
TC fluid

What is left for maintenance/tune-up?
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Unread 07-29-2014, 05:57 AM   #7
paroxysym
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got 140k on my 4.7 and so far ive done: tranny filters, drain and fill tranny, serpentine belt, pcv, egr, spark plugs, brakes/rotors, diff bushing, drain and fill diffs... so yea youre on point with the maintenance for 100k
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Unread 07-29-2014, 06:34 AM   #8
RCS1300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbaier91 View Post
I just go the royal purple because it was cheaper than mobil1 and mopar but was still full synthetic. From my understanding by just dropping the pan and replacing the filters and refilling you only get 50% of the old tranny fluid out because a lot is left in the torque converter? How do I get all of the old tranny fluid out?
I have not done mine yet but I understand that once you drop the pan and change the fluid and filters and seal it all up there may be a way to get the rest of the fluid changed.

There is a video on youtube about this procedure. I am not sure this will work with a Jeep. According to the video, you unhook the transmission oil feed line into the transmission cooler by the radiator, put an extension hose on it and put the open end of that extension hose into a 5 gallon bucket. You need a helper to turn the car on. When the engine is running pour new fluid into the transmission as the old fluid is exiting. Stop when the fluid coming out begins to look new. Then reconnect the transmission cooler hose, fill the transmission to the right level. That should be it. Again, I have not tried this yet and do not know if it will work on a Jeep.

Attempt at your own risk.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsdPAadc9fY
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Unread 07-29-2014, 10:51 AM   #9
attaboyy
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You have a MAP sensor, a Air Intake Temperature sensor, and 4 O2 sensors.

As far as your list goes; other items to do would be
Coolant Change 5yr/100k miles
EGR valve
Clean your Throttle Body - mine was disgusting at 60k
Clean Injectors (seafoam)

Nice to haves:
MAP and O2 sensors
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Unread 07-29-2014, 03:28 PM   #10
unobtanium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by attaboyy View Post
You have a MAP sensor, a Air Intake Temperature sensor, and 4 O2 sensors.

As far as your list goes; other items to do would be
Coolant Change 5yr/100k miles
EGR valve
Clean your Throttle Body - mine was disgusting at 60k
Clean Injectors (seafoam)

Nice to haves:
MAP and O2 sensors
I've read of far too many people throwing codes after cleaning the TB. Might ought just buy a new one which will include a new TPS sensor and IAC, since I have read it's built-in with the HEMI TB.

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/throttl...4591847ac.html

Do the 2010 5.7L Jeeps still have an EGR valve? I've never looked.
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Unread 07-30-2014, 05:28 AM   #11
paroxysym
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why not upgrade to a bigger throttle body since youre looking at buying a new one? fastman, bbk, etc...
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Unread 07-30-2014, 07:44 AM   #12
BonesWK
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Noob question alert: So EGR looks like a pretty straight forward fix, does it make sense to do PCV and EGR at the same time?

My only knowledge on this is a short video on youtube. Im trying to do as much maintenance as I can myself. Im at 114k with original EGR and PCV.
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Unread 07-30-2014, 10:14 AM   #13
attaboyy
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I don't see why not, the PCV is literally a 2 minute install -- open your hood, counter-rotate the old one out, put the new one in.. The EGR while also easy and straightforward takes a little time (1.5hrs) because you have to dissasemble the air intake housing and move the coolant resv out the way to make life easier and then work on the PITA bolts lacking room to turn them more than a 1/4 turn at a time.
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Unread 07-30-2014, 10:18 AM   #14
unobtanium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paroxysym View Post
why not upgrade to a bigger throttle body since youre looking at buying a new one? fastman, bbk, etc...
I don't think this motor pulls enough air to justify it, personally. It's a 6,000rpm 345ci motor. Stock should be fine. Besides, tuning for it on this SD system would be a pain in the arse. I'd leave well enough alone. It's not like its fast. It's an SUV. It's meant for driving around mall parkinglots, taking kids to soccer games, and hauling a bunch of camping equipment or a boat. None of that requires more TB than it has.
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Unread 07-30-2014, 10:19 AM   #15
attaboyy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unobtanium View Post
I've read of far too many people throwing codes after cleaning the TB. Might ought just buy a new one which will include a new TPS sensor and IAC, since I have read it's built-in with the HEMI TB.

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/throttl...4591847ac.html

Do the 2010 5.7L Jeeps still have an EGR valve? I've never looked.

The TB was really, really, easy to take off and clean ... if you would spend $200 to buy a new one then what would it hurt to spend 30 minutes and try cleaning your current one and who cares if you throw a code? (you wont) As long as you disconnect your battery, disconnect the tb from the manifold and don't soak the TB in a bucket of cleaner you should not have any issues with spraying some TB cleaner on the butterfly and wiping it down. Just dont hose down the electrical parts outside of the TB and you will be fine.
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