08' Diesel WK alternator replacement - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 31 Old 09-05-2012, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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08' Diesel WK alternator replacement

hi all, for once search function failed on me

anyone replaced the alternator in an 08 WK diesel. wifes friend just had hers die. its sitting at the stealerhsip right now. quotes over 1000$ and the parts a week out. the local auto parts store has one on the shelf for 400$ (my price)
is it a pain to replace? i've never looked under the hood of a diesel, and i don't want to commit to something if its a real pain.


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post #2 of 31 Old 09-05-2012, 02:23 PM
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I don't think it was to bad, but it's not easy. You have to do most of it from below and a couple of components are in the way.

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post #3 of 31 Old 09-05-2012, 02:56 PM
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Took me just under 5 hours and a fair bit of swearing, but our steering is in the way being right hand drive,
you guys might have more room been lefties. i Had to do everything from the top, remove the air box and an
intercooler pipe with the plastic bit that bolts up to the engine, detach part of the loom from the chassis and
bend two aircon pipes a small bit out of the way. Then it's just a matter of jiggling the alternator out of the very, very tight gap, it can be done even if you think it's impossible.
Now that I've done it once I think I could do it quicker next time but it's still an unpleasant job to do.

This link/post might help. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/c...chase-1156615/

Last edited by Mickey63; 09-05-2012 at 03:14 PM. Reason: Added link
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post #4 of 31 Old 09-06-2012, 10:18 AM
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I luckily had it replaced under my Maxcare warranty but the price sounds about right had I not had the warranty. I would also recommend replacing the accessory belt while this is all going on as it will save you in the long run. While you are messing with the alternator don't forget to add the splash shield to the alternator for future protection.
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post #5 of 31 Old 09-06-2012, 04:59 PM
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I replaced my alternator on my 2007 GC CRD from http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/jeep.html Cost was about $200 bucks. Maniac ships fast, provides a quality rebuilt product, and offers a great price! DON'T FORGET OIL SPLASH SHIELD or you'll be buying another new alternator soon.

The job isn't hard, just a little time consuming. Don't be afraid to bend and move air conditioning lines to make clearance to remove the alternator. The a/c lines are tough enough to handle the movement needed to remove the alternator.

While you are under vehicle, it would be a great time to replace the serpentine belt and remove the baffle in the turbo muffler (or whater it is called).
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post #6 of 31 Old 09-06-2012, 05:01 PM
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I probably removed more stuff than necessary but i wanted as much free room to work in to get the alternator out. sorry,but may not be in correct order

disonnected battery

removed entire airfitler assembly

removed and moved the entire coolant overflow reservoir assembly

removed a coolant line to the radiator

removed egr throttle valve and brought it up to the front of the engine, involved also removing intake air 'hose' to the egr throttle valve

removed connectors and electrical to alternator

removed alternator bolts

i had trouble with clearance getting alternator out. i ended up bending the airconditioning lines out of the way to get the necessary clearance. if you don't want to do this you can remove an engine mount and jack engine up to get clearance between engine and body frame to pull alternator out.

if replacing serpentine belt
remove turbo muffler and all assocated lines
i think i removed another coolant line

its not a hard job, just a little time consuming. i wasted too much time figuring out how to get clearance for the alternator. once i bent/moved the a/c lines, i was able to pull the alternator out without any problems.

I have pics from service manual on this posting and the following are steps on how to do the job per an online service manual: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/c...chase-1156615/
  1. Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
  2. Remove plastic dress-up cover at top of engine.
  3. Remove coolant reservoir tank mounting bolt and position tank toward rear of engine compartment.
  4. Remove air filter cover and air filter element.
  5. Remove air filter housing (one bolt).
  6. Remove generator drive belt. Refer to Cooling System for procedure.
  7. Remove two generator upper mounting bolts (1).
  8. Raise vehicle.
  9. If equipped, remove skid plate below generator
  10. Disconnect field wire connector (5) at rear of generator (4) by pushing on connector tab
  11. Remove two generator lower mounting bolts (2).Lower vehicle.
  12. Remove throttle body-to-cylinder head support bracket (four bolts).
  13. Remove throttle body (four bolts). Refer to Throttle Body Removal in Fuel System.
  14. Unsnap plastic insulator cap from B+ output terminal.
  15. Remove B+ terminal mounting nut (2) at top/rear of generator and remove cable eye (1) from mounting stud (3).
  16. Remove generator from vehicle.
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post #7 of 31 Old 09-06-2012, 09:43 PM
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post #8 of 31 Old 12-29-2013, 06:16 PM
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2008 Grand Cherokee CRD 3.0L with 76,000 miles. Did not properly install the oil cap and oil went all over the alternator, a few thousand miles later and the alternator is going out.

THANKS DREWD for the good info!

Last edited by bettervibes11; 12-29-2013 at 08:42 PM. Reason: got it
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post #9 of 31 Old 12-29-2013, 10:23 PM
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The dealer where I bought mine from put the oil fill cap on wrong and bent the prongs causing the leakage on my alternator. I had an extended warranty that also fixed a bunch of other non CRD specific WK problems (clunking, eLSD failure, suspension issues). Jeeps are just expensive to fix.

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post #10 of 31 Old 12-30-2013, 08:06 AM
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16 steps to change an alternator... Glad we kept our 98 ZJ that one took me a half hr and cost $110 (Mopar re-man). If I find another ZJ in decent shape Im picking it up. These modern Jeeps are a pain when it comes time for fixing...

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post #11 of 31 Old 12-30-2013, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by LouC View Post
16 steps to change an alternator... Glad we kept our 98 ZJ that one took me a half hr and cost $110 (Mopar re-man). If I find another ZJ in decent shape Im picking it up. These modern EVERYTHING are a pain when it comes time for fixing...
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post #12 of 31 Old 01-30-2014, 07:27 PM
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Hi all - first post on JeepForum. I'm beginning to suspect I'll be spending a lot of time in here...

Changed my alternator today - 2008 WK diesel. Now you gotta understand, I've done much of my own car-work for the last 40 years; never rebuilt a transmission or steering box or did gears, but just about everything else. This job ranked 'way down there among the most unpleasant jobs I've done, alongside changing transfer cases in my '93 Cherokee; put the 'better' transfer case (the one with full-time 4WD) in, and I admit to being sneakily impressed with the lengths they went-to to hide the bolts

A couple tools you'll need (or really really want) to do this job:

- a 17mm twelve-point short socket (all mine were 6-point, natch), with a flip-head ratchet or breaker bar at least a foot long for it; much longer, the handle will argue with stuff. The socket is to turn the fan belt tensioner to loosen the belt; the tensioner has a twelve-point head cast into the bottom of it. You'll be turning it counter-clockwise; and this is why you want a bit of 'flip' to the head, because you'll be steering the handle around hoses 'n stuff;

- a 13mm ratcheting-wrench, preferably with a flip-head too - but not too sloppy a head. The bottom back bolt is as near-to-impossible to turn as anything I've ever fought with; you can get a 3/8" drive ratchet on it, but on the bottom back bolt and both of the top bolts, if you loosen them with a ratchet, the bolts will push your ratchet into the frame before they're loose enough to turn by hand. For the amount of pain involved in getting-at that bottom back bolt, it would be well worth your while to flag-down the Snap-On truck and buy yourself a premium new wrench;

- A drain bucket with a good pour spout, to drain the cooling system. I found the job simply impossible without removing the bottom rad hose;

- a 10mm female star-head socket and a good torx screwdriver, to remove the EGR throttle valve. I removed the black plastic housing; it has three star-head bolts and one very long torx screw. Be VERY VERY VERY careful with that housing - there's a wire that plugs into the back of it, I unclipped it and pulled on the connector, and out came what looks suspiciously like a MAF sensor. Now everything I've ever read about MAF sensors said that they're horribly easy to wreck and dreadfully expensive to replace. Don't know if I wrecked this one, my 'check-engine' light was already on for a bum sensor somewhere else, but the Jeep is running just great with the new alternator so I hope not; and

- if you live up here in the snowy North, or anywhere rusting is a problem, a spray can of rustproofing. The lines to the rack-and-pinion steering unit are rusted to chunky on my WK, and I can see I'll be doing them soon - one more place where the undercoaters never think to spray.

A few other tips:

- you'll need easy access to both above and below the front of the engine. Half the job is getting at the bottom back bolt, and I can't imagine how you'd get at it from the top. If you're left-handed like me, bring along a right-handed friend who owes you several beers; you'll owe him after the job.

- the alternator comes-out upward, in front of the engine - and flip it upside-down so the pulley points backward, because the hardest part of getting it out is clearing the mounts where it bolts-onto the engine; having the pulley back there makes it a lot easier to clear. When you put the new alternator in, put it in upside-down and backwards, i.e., the bolt where the main power wire attaches points downward before you flip it into position. And while you're flipping it, put all the bolts (generously smeared with anti-seize) in before you lift the alternator into place, it's a royal pain trying to get the bolts into the holes because the frame is in the way. And while I think to mention it, make sure the clip-on wire plug to the voltage regulator don't sneak itself in between the alternator and the engine while you're bolting the alternator in, or you'll get to unbolt it all over again.

- finally, don't be dumb like I was; don't start the job at 8:00 A.M. when you have to be at work by 3:00 that afternoon. Trust me!
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post #13 of 31 Old 04-27-2015, 01:28 PM
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I realize this is an old thread, but I couldn't find what I was looking for.
Can we only get a 180amp alternator? I see some sprinters, the newer 07/08-10 can have a 220amp unit. Does anyone know if the GC can get a 220amp unit, or only 180amp?

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post #14 of 31 Old 04-27-2015, 05:41 PM
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07 sprinter 220 amp from rock auto : https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...nid=502&jpid=1

07 GC 180 amp alt from rock auto: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...nid=486&jpid=2

aside from the slightly different reg plug position they look about the same. actual connections might be different though....

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post #15 of 31 Old 04-28-2015, 06:42 AM
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Yeah, the sprinter guys said the plug might be different as well. I would assume it will bolt into the correct location though. I was curious if anyone had done the 220amp upgrade when installed extra ORV lights, stereo systems, or anything else that would take a bit more power.

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