07 CRD Low Frequency Rumble Under Light Throttle - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 05-29-2012, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
torqrise
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2007 WK 
 
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07 CRD Low Frequency Rumble Under Light Throttle

I'm about to take my 07 CRD (62K, QDII) into the dealer for them to diagnose a low frequency rumble noise heard during light throttle at 55-65 mph. Sounds like it is driveline related and goes away under when load increases.

Are there any known areas in the driveline that could be the cause??
I'd like to know before I take it in...

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post #2 of 14 Old 05-29-2012, 09:49 AM
wojomoto
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I've also experience what seems to be a wobble at those same speeds. When you stop the car and then reaccelerate to the same speed its is gone? Never happens when pulling a trailer?
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post #3 of 14 Old 05-29-2012, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
torqrise
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It is actually only audible at this point - nothing felt through the floor or steering wheel. To me it feels like a worn spline or u-joint. Something with too much slop at light throttle that seems to tighten up under a heavier load. At anything more than a very light throttle, it goes away.

I'm hoping it is not the front or rear diff...a worn ring/pinion could also do this.
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post #4 of 14 Old 05-29-2012, 03:01 PM
suzieque
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torqrise View Post
I'm about to take my 07 CRD (62K, QDII) into the dealer for them to diagnose a low frequency rumble noise heard during light throttle at 55-65 mph. Sounds like it is driveline related and goes away under when load increases.

Are there any known areas in the driveline that could be the cause??
I'd like to know before I take it in...
I am glad you posted, i also noticed this. I thought it started after my front drive shaft was replaced. After all my dealer issues, i am nervous about going in for a diagnostic on the problem. I would like a driveline specialist to do a balance check on my drive shafts, but i don't have access to a good shop.
Srt8 owners have blamed lower control arms for the vibration. i also wonder about the goodyear fortera tires, i had my wheels rebalanced, but it did not seem to make a difference.
Please post back after you have your vehicle checked out.

2008 WK "S" Limited bright metallic silver exterior, light graystone interior, 5 speed W5J400 transmission, June 18/2008 build, C213RE rear differential with 3.73 axle ratio, C200FE front differential with 3.73 axle ratio, 245/60R18 Goodyear Fortera tires (stock summer tires), NV245 transfer case, GT2056V turbo, 3.0L CRD (OM642.980)
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post #5 of 14 Old 05-31-2012, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
torqrise
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The dealer diagnosed it as the rear universal joint. The fix is a new drive shaft since the yoke is not detachable (at least not at the dealer). $1100.00. Extended warranty comes through again!
The shaft is back-ordered - so I have no idea if this was the actual problem yet. I figure it is worth the deductable charge of $100.00 anyway.

I don't know about others, but my original shaft has several balancing weights attached. I'm wondering how well they stay on over the years...
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post #6 of 14 Old 05-31-2012, 04:10 PM
suzieque
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torqrise View Post
The dealer diagnosed it as the rear universal joint. The fix is a new drive shaft since the yoke is not detachable (at least not at the dealer).
have you actually had the repair done and road tested it? I'm skeptical about driveline repairs, they seem very hard to diagnose.

2008 WK "S" Limited bright metallic silver exterior, light graystone interior, 5 speed W5J400 transmission, June 18/2008 build, C213RE rear differential with 3.73 axle ratio, C200FE front differential with 3.73 axle ratio, 245/60R18 Goodyear Fortera tires (stock summer tires), NV245 transfer case, GT2056V turbo, 3.0L CRD (OM642.980)
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post #7 of 14 Old 06-01-2012, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
torqrise
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The shaft is backordered - 'probably a week or so' ...we'll see.
I agree that driveline noises are difficult to diagnose. Vibrations a little less so since the source is sometimes easier determine.
When the noise is present, there is no vibration. It is easily modulated by throttle input (torque) and sounds like it could be coming from the rear. Light throttle at 60-65 mph it is most noticiable. This would indicate a slight rotating imbalance that passes through the natural frequesncy range of the worn U-joint at that speed - causing the rumbling noise. Higher torque will create more thrust, which tightens up the slop - basically masking the problem. That is all I have to go by.
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post #8 of 14 Old 06-01-2012, 11:19 AM
suzieque
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torqrise View Post
The shaft is backordered - 'probably a week or so' ...we'll see.
I agree that driveline noises are difficult to diagnose. Vibrations a little less so since the source is sometimes easier determine.
When the noise is present, there is no vibration. It is easily modulated by throttle input (torque) and sounds like it could be coming from the rear. Light throttle at 60-65 mph it is most noticiable. This would indicate a slight rotating imbalance that passes through the natural frequesncy range of the worn U-joint at that speed - causing the rumbling noise. Higher torque will create more thrust, which tightens up the slop - basically masking the problem. That is all I have to go by.
I'm going to hold off taking my WK in to the dealership until you report back, I'd like to pass my dealer some other owner's experience like yours and what was done to repair.

2008 WK "S" Limited bright metallic silver exterior, light graystone interior, 5 speed W5J400 transmission, June 18/2008 build, C213RE rear differential with 3.73 axle ratio, C200FE front differential with 3.73 axle ratio, 245/60R18 Goodyear Fortera tires (stock summer tires), NV245 transfer case, GT2056V turbo, 3.0L CRD (OM642.980)
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post #9 of 14 Old 08-08-2012, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
torqrise
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After a week of driving with the new rear shaft in place, I can still hear a slight 'rumble' noise - but at a lower speed (55 mph instead of 65). So at least I can narrow it down to a rotating imbalance on the shaft itself. I have noticed this problem from day 1 - as it was driven off the lot back in July '07.
The big question is - why aren't these shafts fully balanced from the factory???
Is it me, or has anyone else noticed a 'rumble' under light throttle at certain speeds??
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post #10 of 14 Old 08-08-2012, 07:29 PM
suzieque
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I seem to notice the rumble more in first gear when i rev it near 3000, none of the other gears seem to cause that rumble at that rpm.

2008 WK "S" Limited bright metallic silver exterior, light graystone interior, 5 speed W5J400 transmission, June 18/2008 build, C213RE rear differential with 3.73 axle ratio, C200FE front differential with 3.73 axle ratio, 245/60R18 Goodyear Fortera tires (stock summer tires), NV245 transfer case, GT2056V turbo, 3.0L CRD (OM642.980)
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post #11 of 14 Old 08-09-2012, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
torqrise
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Quote:
I seem to notice the rumble more in first gear when i rev it near 3000
This may indicate something else creating the rumble noise. Is your noise vehicle speed dependent or gear selection dependent? Since my problem is related to vehicle speed, I'm thinking that it could only be realted to the components that are linked to the final drive (shaft speed = 2336 rpm @ 55 mph)
I've been told that the only real solution to this problem is to take the shaft into a shop that specializes in driveline balancing.
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post #12 of 14 Old 08-09-2012, 01:08 PM
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Here's some info from the service manual . It actually goes into quite good detail on how to check driveshaft ballance using screw-clamps .Download-able pdf's for the WK are easy to find on the net if you want one .
DRIVELINE VIBRATION
Drive Condition Possible Cause Correction
Propeller Shaft Noise 1) Undercoating or other foreign
material on shaft.
1) Clean exterior of shaft and wash
with solvent.
2) Loose or bent U-joint yoke or
excessive runout.
2) Install new yoke.
3) Incorrect driveline angularity. 3) Measure and correct driveline
angles.
4) Worn U-joint bearings. 4) Install new propeller shaft.
5) Propeller shaft damaged or out
of balance.
5) Installl new propeller shaft.
6) Broken rear spring. 6) Install new rear spring.
7) Excessive runout or unbalanced
condition.
7) Re-index propeller shaft, test,
and evaluate.
8) Excessive drive pinion gear shaft
runout.
8) Re-index propeller shaft and
evaluate.
Universal Joint Noise 1) Loose U-joint flange screws. 1) Install new screws and tighten to
proper torque.
2) Lack of lubrication. 2) Install new propeller shaft.
Tires that are out-of-round, or wheels that are not balanced, will cause a low frequency vibration.
Brake rotors that are unbalanced will cause a harsh, low frequency vibration.
Driveline vibration can also result from loose or damaged engine mounts.
Propeller shaft vibration increases as the vehicle speed is increased. A vibration that occurs within a specific speed
range is not usually caused by a propeller shaft being unbalanced. Defective universal joints, or an incorrect propeller
shaft angle, are usually the cause of such a vibration.
NOTE: Removing and re-indexing the propeller
shaft 90 rear axle 45 trans case or front axle relative
to the yoke may eliminate some vibrations.

5 and counting :05 WK 5.7 HEMI
90 YJ Islander 4.2L
94 ZJ Ltd 5.2 ,00 WJ 4.0
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post #13 of 14 Old 08-09-2012, 11:26 PM
fishinbama
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it is your rear end
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post #14 of 14 Old 08-10-2012, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
torqrise
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yzjwk View Post
NOTE: Removing and re-indexing the propeller
shaft 90 rear axle 45 trans case or front axle relative
to the yoke may eliminate some vibrations.
That sounds like something I can easily check myself.

Quote:
it is your rear end
I usually check 'that' every morning...
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