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Unread 12-15-2012, 09:50 AM   #1
csalev3
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TJ body lifts?

Anyone have a TJ with a 4" suspension lift and any amount of body lift? Have a 4" lift in mine, debating an inch or two of body lift as well..

Thanks in advance! Feel free to email - csalev3@gmail.com

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1997 TJ, NEW FRAME, 4.0, 5 spd, d30, d35 aussie locked, np231 RR sye, tom woods driveshaft, 4" RC n20 lift, adjustable upper rear c/a, 33x10.5x15 BFG KM2s
1945 Willys MB, all original right down to the tires, 30k miles, 250 miles on rebuilt L134 engine. + 1946 Willys CJ-2a, barn fresh, new 6.50x16 NDTs, 15k miles
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Unread 12-15-2012, 10:14 AM   #2
tyvanwie
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Most people will suggest to not get a 2" body lift. Some people will argue this of course, but I'd suggest not going any higher than 1.5". Plus you will probably need a motor mount lift as well.
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Unread 12-15-2012, 10:25 AM   #3
tyvanwie
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Actually let me start over, why do you need a body lift if you have the 4 inch suspension? Do you take it wheeling? Plan on running bigger tires? What do you plan on doing with it?
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Unread 12-15-2012, 12:24 PM   #4
csalev3
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Yeah mostly for clearance. Going to replace my 33s with some bigger meats. Ordered Johnny joint control arms too. Didn't know how outrageous it would look, but for the price I'd rather do that than install a whole new lift. For the time being...
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1997 TJ, NEW FRAME, 4.0, 5 spd, d30, d35 aussie locked, np231 RR sye, tom woods driveshaft, 4" RC n20 lift, adjustable upper rear c/a, 33x10.5x15 BFG KM2s
1945 Willys MB, all original right down to the tires, 30k miles, 250 miles on rebuilt L134 engine. + 1946 Willys CJ-2a, barn fresh, new 6.50x16 NDTs, 15k miles
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Unread 12-15-2012, 12:32 PM   #5
tyvanwie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csalev3
Yeah mostly for clearance. Going to replace my 33s with some bigger meats. Ordered Johnny joint control arms too. Didn't know how outrageous it would look, but for the price I'd rather do that than install a whole new lift. For the time being...
Well if you're wheeling it you'll probably need strong axles if you have the 30/35 set up.
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Unread 12-15-2012, 01:28 PM   #6
TJDaveX
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A 1.25" body lift will help greatly if you want to get rid of your stock earth brake and tuck everything up with an after market one. (TC skid)
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Unread 12-15-2012, 02:41 PM   #7
csalev3
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Yeah I know. I can worry about those later. It's a daily driver and I don't beat on it. A sbc may find its way under the hood this spring, I'll upgrade then.
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1997 TJ, NEW FRAME, 4.0, 5 spd, d30, d35 aussie locked, np231 RR sye, tom woods driveshaft, 4" RC n20 lift, adjustable upper rear c/a, 33x10.5x15 BFG KM2s
1945 Willys MB, all original right down to the tires, 30k miles, 250 miles on rebuilt L134 engine. + 1946 Willys CJ-2a, barn fresh, new 6.50x16 NDTs, 15k miles
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Unread 12-15-2012, 02:42 PM   #8
csalev3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJDaveX
A 1.25" body lift will help greatly if you want to get rid of your stock earth brake and tuck everything up with an after market one. (TC skid)
Yeah that'd be nice. I was thinking about making my own low profile skid. Something that protects a lot of the undercarriage.
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1997 TJ, NEW FRAME, 4.0, 5 spd, d30, d35 aussie locked, np231 RR sye, tom woods driveshaft, 4" RC n20 lift, adjustable upper rear c/a, 33x10.5x15 BFG KM2s
1945 Willys MB, all original right down to the tires, 30k miles, 250 miles on rebuilt L134 engine. + 1946 Willys CJ-2a, barn fresh, new 6.50x16 NDTs, 15k miles
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Unread 12-15-2012, 04:50 PM   #9
Drastiq
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I wouldnt run a body lift with 4" springs. Get a set of 2.5" coils or 3" currie coils and a 1" body lift.
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Unread 12-15-2012, 05:16 PM   #10
csalev3
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Yeah, but I want additional clearance. Doesn't make sense really to put a smaller set of springs in...
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1997 TJ, NEW FRAME, 4.0, 5 spd, d30, d35 aussie locked, np231 RR sye, tom woods driveshaft, 4" RC n20 lift, adjustable upper rear c/a, 33x10.5x15 BFG KM2s
1945 Willys MB, all original right down to the tires, 30k miles, 250 miles on rebuilt L134 engine. + 1946 Willys CJ-2a, barn fresh, new 6.50x16 NDTs, 15k miles
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Unread 12-15-2012, 05:59 PM   #11
metaljeep
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JMO If you want more clearance get a set of high clearance fenders and go with a lower set of springs to get a lower center of gravity. What's wrong with the 4.0 I would keep it for now until something happened to it.
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Unread 12-15-2012, 06:05 PM   #12
csalev3
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Interesting that everyone has an opinion... I just wanted to see what it looked like. I'm definitely not putting a lower lift in it. As for the sbc, more power and higher mpg, what's not to like about that?
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1997 TJ, NEW FRAME, 4.0, 5 spd, d30, d35 aussie locked, np231 RR sye, tom woods driveshaft, 4" RC n20 lift, adjustable upper rear c/a, 33x10.5x15 BFG KM2s
1945 Willys MB, all original right down to the tires, 30k miles, 250 miles on rebuilt L134 engine. + 1946 Willys CJ-2a, barn fresh, new 6.50x16 NDTs, 15k miles
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Unread 12-15-2012, 06:07 PM   #13
csalev3
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Putting smaller springs and higher fenders is counter productive. Il have the same clearance putting 3" springs in, and 1" higher fenders... I'd keep the 4" add a 1" BL, and put 35s on it. Fenders can come later, when they need to be replaced.
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1997 TJ, NEW FRAME, 4.0, 5 spd, d30, d35 aussie locked, np231 RR sye, tom woods driveshaft, 4" RC n20 lift, adjustable upper rear c/a, 33x10.5x15 BFG KM2s
1945 Willys MB, all original right down to the tires, 30k miles, 250 miles on rebuilt L134 engine. + 1946 Willys CJ-2a, barn fresh, new 6.50x16 NDTs, 15k miles
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Unread 12-15-2012, 07:13 PM   #14
Drastiq
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csalev3 View Post
Putting smaller springs and higher fenders is counter productive. Il have the same clearance putting 3" springs in, and 1" higher fenders... I'd keep the 4" add a 1" BL, and put 35s on it. Fenders can come later, when they need to be replaced.
hahahah counter productive? Having a lower center of gravity and having fender clearance are 2 completely different things. I have the same fender clearance in the front as someone with 7" of lift BUT my jeep only sits 3.5" higher then a stock jeep.

I have 2.5" saggy coils(1" spacer to level the front) and 1" body lift on 35s, with highline fenders

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[CENTER][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/drastic-tj-build-1062821/"]Project Holly.[/URL] [COLOR="DarkGreen"]2000 TJ[/COLOR] | [B]MCOG ;)[/B]
2.5" RC Progressive, 1" M.O.R.E BL, Long Arms, HP30, 8.8, 35" BFG KM2s
[SIZE="1"]Aussie, Powertrax, Riddler, Bilstein, Rubicon Express, Artec, Tom Woods
Currie, Poison Spyder, OME, Cragar, Smittybilt, Precision, Rustys, Teraflex[/SIZE][/CENTER]
-
[B]SOLD[/B] 1994 YJ, OD Green. 4" RC. 2" BL. 2" SL. 1" MML 35" MTZ.
[B]SOLD[/B] 1998 TJ, Red, Stock, 161k, 5sp, 6cyl.
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Unread 12-16-2012, 09:50 PM   #15
Bennettj13
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I run 4" and a 1.25" BL. It was just fine for 35's.
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