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Unread 02-03-2011, 01:28 PM   #16
MountainMan864
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Filthy beast. Did you have any problems clearing 35's with 2.5ome and 1.25 body lift? Ive got tnt tube fenders, pretty much same clearance and xenon on the back. Cant decide between aev or ome.

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Unread 02-10-2011, 12:14 PM   #17
Filthy-Beast
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Sorry guys, just got back to the web. I went to the 3" springs at the same time as the 35s. I do rub on full turn against the Antirock bar I've got to put some more washers in the steering lock, each one currently has two washers.

I'm running BDS 3" shocks to try and get a good balance of up and down travel.

The AEV springs ride much better especially with the back seat out and fully loaded with personal gear, tools and sometimes towing a popup. I had added the Air Lift 1000 bags to the OME springs, the AEV are even better than that combo without the hassle of change bag pressure as the load changes.

Here's a shot of full stuff with an Antirock sway bar at the loosest setting. You decide if you want the extra .5 to and 1" of clearance. I'm very happy with the decision to move to AEV springs.

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[SIZE="1"][B]97 TJ:[/B] daughter 1 - 2.5L, Auto, 2" BB, 31" GY Duratrac
[B]98 TJ:[/B] Daugher 2 - 4.0L, 5spd, D44 rear
[B]06 LJ Rubicon:[/B] mine - Rokmen full up-armor, 8 adjustable CAs, front bumper, sliders, corners, Shrockworks rear bumper, 3" AEV/BDS lift, Currie HD stearing and Antirock, MT/r - k 35x12.5, SuperWinch, MC Overlines, York OBA
[B]13 JKU Rubicon:[/B] Wife's for now, Ace Rock rails & rear bumper tire carrier, Truck Lites, MC Game changer 3.5 lift, RR skids, PSC Brawler front bumper, Warn 9.5cti-s, 35" GY MTRs[/SIZE]
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Unread 02-10-2011, 12:41 PM   #18
MountainMan864
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I just hardly ever have any weight in the jeep unless it is a passenger. Just a rear seat and short corner armor. Thats why im thinking ome will suit me better. I might buy another set of 33's and get new springs that after i buy the axles and everything ill be ready to stepup when my 33's wear out.
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Unread 02-10-2011, 02:18 PM   #19
Filthy-Beast
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I moved the OME springs and shocks to my daughter's jeep so the decision to make the move was easier. I would have been buying spring and shocks one way or the other. The AEV are progressive so they do very well with a light load also.
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[SIZE="1"][B]97 TJ:[/B] daughter 1 - 2.5L, Auto, 2" BB, 31" GY Duratrac
[B]98 TJ:[/B] Daugher 2 - 4.0L, 5spd, D44 rear
[B]06 LJ Rubicon:[/B] mine - Rokmen full up-armor, 8 adjustable CAs, front bumper, sliders, corners, Shrockworks rear bumper, 3" AEV/BDS lift, Currie HD stearing and Antirock, MT/r - k 35x12.5, SuperWinch, MC Overlines, York OBA
[B]13 JKU Rubicon:[/B] Wife's for now, Ace Rock rails & rear bumper tire carrier, Truck Lites, MC Game changer 3.5 lift, RR skids, PSC Brawler front bumper, Warn 9.5cti-s, 35" GY MTRs[/SIZE]
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Unread 02-10-2011, 02:23 PM   #20
MikalCarbine
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I'm the same way with a light load on average, no rear aftermark tire carrier YET and I usually don't run a back seat. Did you lose travel going from the BDS to OME, you said it was just about 0.5"? Did you lose that by having to add additional bumpstop?
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Unread 02-10-2011, 06:30 PM   #21
Filthy-Beast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikalCarbine View Post
I'm the same way with a light load on average, no rear aftermark tire carrier YET and I usually don't run a back seat. Did you lose travel going from the BDS to OME, you said it was just about 0.5"? Did you lose that by having to add additional bumpstop?
If you're asking me? I went from OME to BDS. I had OME 2.5" springs and shocks. When I installed the AEV 3" progressive springs I went with 3" BDS shocks so I won't loose any travel. I did not change the bump stops, just used the ones that I installed with the OME setup.

The .5" to 1" comment was direct to those asking about clearance of 2" vs 2.5" vs 3" lift with 35" tires and MetalCloak fenders. I posted the pic to show that I can stuff the tires into the fenders with 3" of lift and I'm not fully disconnected, I run the Anti-Rock sway bar.
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[COLOR="red"][B]For Sale:[/B][/COLOR] [URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f129/jk-4dr-black-painted-hard-top-1000-a-1541186/"][COLOR="Blue"]2013 4dr JK Painted black Hard Top[/COLOR][/URL] [URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f127/jkur-18-59-springs-shocks-1557427/"][COLOR="Purple"]JKUR 18/59 springs and shocks[/COLOR][/URL]

[SIZE="1"][B]97 TJ:[/B] daughter 1 - 2.5L, Auto, 2" BB, 31" GY Duratrac
[B]98 TJ:[/B] Daugher 2 - 4.0L, 5spd, D44 rear
[B]06 LJ Rubicon:[/B] mine - Rokmen full up-armor, 8 adjustable CAs, front bumper, sliders, corners, Shrockworks rear bumper, 3" AEV/BDS lift, Currie HD stearing and Antirock, MT/r - k 35x12.5, SuperWinch, MC Overlines, York OBA
[B]13 JKU Rubicon:[/B] Wife's for now, Ace Rock rails & rear bumper tire carrier, Truck Lites, MC Game changer 3.5 lift, RR skids, PSC Brawler front bumper, Warn 9.5cti-s, 35" GY MTRs[/SIZE]
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Unread 02-10-2011, 08:58 PM   #22
MikalCarbine
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Oooh sorry I misread that. So were you on the AEV coils at any point with the OME shocks or did you swap them both out at the same time? If you did run the AEV/OEM how do the BDS shocks perform when compared?
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Unread 02-10-2011, 09:28 PM   #23
Filthy-Beast
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I did the springs and shocks at the same time. So I'm not sure how it would be with the OME springs. When I was researching it seem that most people running these springs went with either Blitstien or Rancho 9000 and there were also a lot using OME.
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[B][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/beast-2-build-13-jkur-1460311/"]13 JKUR Build thread[/URL][/B]

[COLOR="red"][B]For Sale:[/B][/COLOR] [URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f129/jk-4dr-black-painted-hard-top-1000-a-1541186/"][COLOR="Blue"]2013 4dr JK Painted black Hard Top[/COLOR][/URL] [URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f127/jkur-18-59-springs-shocks-1557427/"][COLOR="Purple"]JKUR 18/59 springs and shocks[/COLOR][/URL]

[SIZE="1"][B]97 TJ:[/B] daughter 1 - 2.5L, Auto, 2" BB, 31" GY Duratrac
[B]98 TJ:[/B] Daugher 2 - 4.0L, 5spd, D44 rear
[B]06 LJ Rubicon:[/B] mine - Rokmen full up-armor, 8 adjustable CAs, front bumper, sliders, corners, Shrockworks rear bumper, 3" AEV/BDS lift, Currie HD stearing and Antirock, MT/r - k 35x12.5, SuperWinch, MC Overlines, York OBA
[B]13 JKU Rubicon:[/B] Wife's for now, Ace Rock rails & rear bumper tire carrier, Truck Lites, MC Game changer 3.5 lift, RR skids, PSC Brawler front bumper, Warn 9.5cti-s, 35" GY MTRs[/SIZE]
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Unread 02-11-2011, 12:59 AM   #24
jforse
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Got the overlines on tonight!
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Unread 02-11-2011, 05:44 AM   #25
Filthy-Beast
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Looks good, I like the black access cover.
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[B][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/beast-2-build-13-jkur-1460311/"]13 JKUR Build thread[/URL][/B]

[COLOR="red"][B]For Sale:[/B][/COLOR] [URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f129/jk-4dr-black-painted-hard-top-1000-a-1541186/"][COLOR="Blue"]2013 4dr JK Painted black Hard Top[/COLOR][/URL] [URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f127/jkur-18-59-springs-shocks-1557427/"][COLOR="Purple"]JKUR 18/59 springs and shocks[/COLOR][/URL]

[SIZE="1"][B]97 TJ:[/B] daughter 1 - 2.5L, Auto, 2" BB, 31" GY Duratrac
[B]98 TJ:[/B] Daugher 2 - 4.0L, 5spd, D44 rear
[B]06 LJ Rubicon:[/B] mine - Rokmen full up-armor, 8 adjustable CAs, front bumper, sliders, corners, Shrockworks rear bumper, 3" AEV/BDS lift, Currie HD stearing and Antirock, MT/r - k 35x12.5, SuperWinch, MC Overlines, York OBA
[B]13 JKU Rubicon:[/B] Wife's for now, Ace Rock rails & rear bumper tire carrier, Truck Lites, MC Game changer 3.5 lift, RR skids, PSC Brawler front bumper, Warn 9.5cti-s, 35" GY MTRs[/SIZE]
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Unread 02-11-2011, 08:47 AM   #26
MikalCarbine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Filthy-Beast
I did the springs and shocks at the same time. So I'm not sure how it would be with the OME springs. When I was researching it seem that most people running these springs went with either Blitstien or Rancho 9000 and there were also a lot using OME.
Thats what I've been reading, it seems like more than 50% run OME with this setup but the bumpstop required is killer. With the BDS you can cut down the bumpstop to about 1.5" from what I've been reading, with balanced 4.5" up/down travel. I'm going to call AEV today and see what they think
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Unread 09-12-2011, 07:58 PM   #27
danielbuck
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sorry to resurect this thread, but it seems like several folks here have a similar setup as me and I'd rather not start a fresh thread on this.

I've got 2" spring lift with 1.25" body & motor lift, metalcloak 4" overline fenders up front and trimmed factory flares in the rear, and Currie JJ control arms in the rear with properly adjusted pinion angle (not sure if that matters for rear rubbing at full flex?). Wheels are 16x8 with 4.5" back spacing. And the front wheels have warn hubs, which pushes the wheels out probably another 1/4-1/2" (for the rest of my specs, see my profile)

Debating on going 33x12.5 or 35x12.5 Goodyear MTR Kevlars. I imagine if I go with 33s, i will be constantly wondering if I should have gone to 35s. Maybe I should look at a 35" tire that isn't quite as tall as the Kevlars? (I understand that some are larger than others, and the Kevlars are a strong 35" tall?)

My main question is, what all might need to be trimmed in the rear? I'm perfectly fine trimming the rear flares, I've already trimmed them once. But what about the actual body/fender itself, will it need to be trimmed, or will it just be a tight fit? Anyone running factory/trimmed rear fenders with 3" lift and 35s?

My front sags a bit due to the heavier front bumper and winch, so if there is rubbing issues up front I may contemplate putting on a 1/2-3/4" spring spacer or slightly taller springs, but I don't want to go to tall because i will have trouble with parking garages. parking garages are the only reason I am not putting on another inch or two suspension lift :-( Such is the fate of my TJ that has to drive me to work in the city during the week.

I do wheel mine on the weekends however,, and getting into the more challenging hardpacked/rock trails, so this isn't a street-only jeep or a mud-pit jeep.
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Unread 09-12-2011, 09:11 PM   #28
MountainMan864
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The rear should be fine. Since you have currie arms just put the 35's on and center the tire a little more foward than backward so when flexing youll be str8.
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Unread 09-12-2011, 10:01 PM   #29
danielbuck
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Just to prevent any possible problems, would it be better maybe to go with a set of 35's (or are there any tires that are supposed to be 34"?) that are actually smaller than 35", like the BFG KM2s? I keep hearing that they are on the smaller spectrum of 35" tires.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 05:40 AM   #30
MikalCarbine
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Mickey Thompson MTZ do the same. I haven't been keeping up in the thread but if you're realty concerned just do a 1" bl and put all your clearance woes to sleep
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