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Unread 04-07-2011, 04:04 PM   #31
NITBRubicon
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I just bashed my currie drag link and tie rod this past weekend right at their connection point at the "inverted y" into a boulder. Nothing happened except for my jeep stopping in its tracks and rock remnants stuck to the steel. No deformation.

Good product and clearly holds up. Definitely recommend it.

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Unread 04-07-2011, 04:15 PM   #32
wrangler97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Yes, as I've already stated.....

I purchased it second-hand off spyder6, who sold his rig before putting the tie rod on. I flipped it at the same time. To answer your above question, there are no disadvantages and no change in geometry. The tie rod is still connecting at the same point through the knuckle, just on top. Well worth it.

Right you did say that. Is there some fabrication that needs done on to flip it? or just bolt it the other way? Thanks again
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Unread 04-08-2011, 06:27 AM   #33
SquareLJ
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Here's the only pic I have of mine. lol. Other then this little mishap, it's been fantastic. When I first got it, I had an issue with one of the ball joints popping out. Went to Currie and they replaced it free on the spot (I had hit it very hard and I had an older joint. Totally did not expect them to replace it as I had abused it). This picture was taken after I decided to slip off one rock and face plant into another rock.



I recomend it to anyone with a lifted Jeep.
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Unread 04-08-2011, 06:34 AM   #34
EugeneTheTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrangler97 View Post
Right you did say that. Is there some fabrication that needs done on to flip it? or just bolt it the other way? Thanks again
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
No.....the hole in the knuckle is tapered so that taper has to be removed then reversed. In order to do that, you need to very carefully ream the knuckle out after loctiting an insert into the existing taper. I ended up failing at this twice because my new taper wasn't 'perfect".....it worked OK but the fit wouldn't hold after being bashed by a rock. I just don't have the resources to make a perfect taper. I sent Blaine the first failed knuckle so he could do it his way....he drills the taper completely out to ~7/8" and tig welds a spacer into the hole. I swapped it in and am good to go. You also will have to weld on new lower sway bar links mounts to the inner C or else the tie rod will make contact with the original sway bar link mounts. That was a pretty quick and easy job. PM Blaine if you want to flip the tie rod.
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Unread 04-08-2011, 07:26 AM   #35
MountainMan864
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Anyone got a pic of where the steering stabilizer mounts too and the trackbar. My jeep steering is boogered up and im trying to fix it back to stock locations. But I can still drive 70 mph on the highway.
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Unread 04-08-2011, 07:58 AM   #36
dcorn
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Here's mine with the tie rod flipped. It's bent pretty good, but I just adjust the toe every time I bend it and its been working fine. It's soo much higher with the flip, but with my axle pushed forward, I had to cut off the sway bar mounts and part of the coil bucket because the tie rod was hitting. Very beefy steering setup, has served me well for over two years of hard wheeling.

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Unread 04-08-2011, 08:56 AM   #37
wrangler97
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oh... thanks eugene
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Unread 04-10-2011, 08:25 PM   #38
2003X
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Mine, I noticed most of you have your steering stabilizer bracket on the back of the bar. Is that how its supposed to be?
img_1948.jpg   img_1949.jpg   img_1941.jpg  
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Unread 04-20-2011, 01:13 PM   #39
dayriesw
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Unread 05-06-2011, 09:04 PM   #40
Hobojo
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Currie w/ savvy tierod
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Unread 05-06-2011, 09:32 PM   #41
IH8PEPL
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This is next on my to do list.
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Unread 06-30-2011, 07:15 PM   #42
Jeepzcb09
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bump...
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Unread 09-09-2011, 04:52 PM   #43
UncleWilson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
No.....the hole in the knuckle is tapered so that taper has to be removed then reversed. In order to do that, you need to very carefully ream the knuckle out after loctiting an insert into the existing taper. I ended up failing at this twice because my new taper wasn't 'perfect".....it worked OK but the fit wouldn't hold after being bashed by a rock. I just don't have the resources to make a perfect taper. I sent Blaine the first failed knuckle so he could do it his way....he drills the taper completely out to ~7/8" and tig welds a spacer into the hole. I swapped it in and am good to go. You also will have to weld on new lower sway bar links mounts to the inner C or else the tie rod will make contact with the original sway bar link mounts. That was a pretty quick and easy job. PM Blaine if you want to flip the tie rod.
Was the ream and taper only when fliping the TR or was that just needed for the Ultimate Steering?
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www.stu-offroad.com
TJ Alignment Videos
Currie Control Arms Install Tips
Off Road Tips Techniques

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(OIIIIIO)
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Unread 09-09-2011, 05:45 PM   #44
danielbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SquareLJ View Post
... This picture was taken after I decided to slip off one rock and face plant into another rock. ...
Wow, you must have hit that real hard, haha! I thought I've smacked mine pretty good, but didn't put more than a scratch in it. That must have been a good hit
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Unread 09-09-2011, 05:45 PM   #45
UncleWilson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleWilson View Post
Was the ream and taper only when fliping the TR or was that just needed for the Ultimate Steering?
Or has this been fixed with the TJ Tierod Flip Insert?
http://blackmagicbrakes.com/Jeep_Co-Op.php
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www.stu-offroad.com
TJ Alignment Videos
Currie Control Arms Install Tips
Off Road Tips Techniques

o[__Q_]o
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[]==O==[]
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