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post #706 of Old 03-25-2011, 09:35 PM
razorback84
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Originally Posted by inglisleslie View Post
I am going to have to do the same thing that's why I am asking. So you got adjustable rear uppers and lowers. I thought the Rokmen's could only adjust to 1" over stock? Did you have to buy a new drive shaft? Did you have to re work any brake lines or have gas tank clearance problems? What rear track bar? Info please I need to know how to do it right the first time. Thanks in advance.
They adjust 0-7 inches of lift and I've got adjustable uppers and lowers front and rear.. I was able to reuse my TW driveshaft that I had before I did the mini stretch, but I'd like to get a JE Reel shaft down the road. With me only going 1.5 I don't have any problems with the gas tank, brakes or rear track bar, but its close. If you have the evap system in the rear pass wheel well then you will have to relocate it or by pass it. I have mine bypassed and haven't gotten the check engine light yet. If Arkansas had a smog test I'm pretty sure it wouldn't pass though.


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post #707 of Old 03-26-2011, 08:10 AM
SideshowBob024
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Originally Posted by AFjeepMan View Post
It does limit some up travel, but with tj's you can add the bar pin eliminators and effectively make up ground by adding an inch of down travel instead of wasting the inch of shock travel without them.
Oh cool. And it solves the annoying clunkity clunk over chop bumps!

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Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Or extend the mounts with Ford towers, set them up correctly for the amount of up travel you can use, and run LONGER shocks than you were before. I'm also on 2.5" coils and run 12" travel shocks with 6" of up travel and 6" of droop. With the stock hood line, you can use about 3.5-4" of up travel. A 10" travel shock would suit you well with that setup.
Looks complicated
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post #708 of Old 03-26-2011, 10:08 AM
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Looks complicated
It simplifies everything.

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post #709 of Old 03-26-2011, 10:20 AM
SideshowBob024
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Nah, actually it made sense when I looked it up, but I am a ways from that level of mods. Plus my suspension is brand new so I am not about to swap any shocks. The original question was more framed to decide on what kind of ratios I should be considering.
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post #710 of Old 03-26-2011, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
MattGATRTJ
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Originally Posted by Jblazektj

This is with a 2.5" body lift and 35's?
That was with a budget boost coil spacer. It has changed quite a bit since then. Same height, but all the suspension is a rubicon express super flex kit.


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post #711 of Old 03-27-2011, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Or extend the mounts with Ford towers, set them up correctly for the amount of up travel you can use, and run LONGER shocks than you were before. I'm also on 2.5" coils and run 12" travel shocks with 6" of up travel and 6" of droop. With the stock hood line, you can use about 3.5-4" of up travel. A 10" travel shock would suit you well with that setup.
I was looking into doing this... Do you have a writeup on it or anything? I'm looking into a total of about 2.5" of suspension lift when it's done with.

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post #712 of Old 03-27-2011, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by SideshowBob024 View Post
Oh cool. And it solves the annoying clunkity clunk over chop bumps!



Looks complicated
It might look complicated to you. But go to this jeep built (float test) and look at the picture of how well his rig works and I bet you will start to thing about this as a mod to your jeep. Imped Jeep is how i hope to see my jeep setup one day.
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post #713 of Old 03-27-2011, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ajf1994 View Post
I was looking into doing this... Do you have a writeup on it or anything? I'm looking into a total of about 2.5" of suspension lift when it's done with.
It's pretty simple. PM me if you want to ask specifics so we don't clog this thread.

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post #714 of Old 03-29-2011, 09:48 AM
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Has anyone driven a TJ with a 4.0, 5 speed, 3.73, and 35s? How bad is the gearing really? Is it just losing the use of 5th? I could potentially afford 35s, but not 4.56s in both axles... I know it isn't LCG specific, but there are a lot of knowledgable people on this thread already whose advice I could use.

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I'm currently running 3.73's on 35's and have been for nearly three years now. It's still pretty peppy but I can't do a burnout or anything like that. I can still use 5th gear on a flat surface but going uphill you do have to downshift to 4th or possibly even 3rd depending on how steep the hill is. That being said, It will definitely be worth it when I regear to 4.56's but the 3.73's are more than liveable until then...

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post #715 of Old 03-29-2011, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by TJ-xtreme View Post
4.88
Fixed. If you're paying for it, don't waste time with non-optimal gears. If I could support them, I'd go 5.13.

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post #716 of Old 03-29-2011, 11:18 AM
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Fixed. If you're paying for it, don't waste time with non-optimal gears. If I could support them, I'd go 5.13.
I've the 4 speed auto and planning on doing 5.13's I've got the stock 4.11s right now

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post #717 of Old 03-29-2011, 11:50 AM
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I've the 4 speed auto and planning on doing 5.13's I've got the stock 4.11s right now
You need AT LEAST 5.13's to overcome that deep OD. The NV3550 doesn't suffer from that problem.

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post #718 of Old 03-29-2011, 02:55 PM
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You need AT LEAST 5.13's to overcome that deep OD. The NV3550 doesn't suffer from that problem.
From someone who has ran both 35's and now 37's on the 42rle I'll tell you the 5.13's dont cut it if you have any type of hills. 5.38's would be nice. I may look into them in the future. But it's a dog right now.

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post #719 of Old 03-29-2011, 07:13 PM
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Went with 5-38s and running 37s and dont regret it a bit on my 06 automatic not to much gear at all
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post #720 of Old 03-29-2011, 08:11 PM
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I know I'm gonna get flamed for this, but I'm not planning on going any bigger then 35s anytime in the next couple of years. So I think I'm gonna stick with the 13's

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