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Unread 03-19-2013, 07:33 PM   #1
WagenWheels
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1987 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
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Wagoneer!@!

Hello i just recently got a 1987 Grand Wagoneer. Picked it up cheap, its rusty and crusty. Was in a field/barn for 15 years. 89k on the odo. It ran well when i picked it up and test drove it. Electrically in good shape every thing works except heat/air, the compressor was taken out. On the drive home after 15mins of driving, it back fired and died. It would start right back up. i assumed fuel gauge was off so i picked up some fuel. it would keep starting up right away and would stall once put in gear.

Once home i Changed fluids, spark plugs, gas, fuel filter, lubed her up. Drove around the neighbor hood....Same thing 10-15mins of driving stalled out. Flushed and changed radiator fluid. Cooled down, Started it back up left it idling in the drive way, Idle has always been some what ruff. It ran for 15 mins and stalled again. Its like its losing fuel or someone just turns it off, Pressing the gas pedal will not save it. It will always start back up and then dies within minutes. The idle has improved after cleaning the carbs some. I took off the gas cap to see if it was vapor lock. Didnt work. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do next? Could it be timing or carb issue? Engine temp is around 100 when it happens, i cannot confirm that the gauge is in calibration or sticks at 100* Please help. Thanks.

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Unread 03-19-2013, 07:38 PM   #2
Saul32
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Maybe ur fuel filer is not at the correct position
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Unread 03-19-2013, 07:47 PM   #3
WagenWheels
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There is also an inline fuel filter just before the fuel pump.
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Unread 03-19-2013, 08:39 PM   #4
revelc
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Mine did the same thing. The fuel lines to and from the carb were dry rotted. When they got warm they would swell and air bled in.
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Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 03-19-2013, 08:46 PM   #5
RockRollin
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Could be pulling air from a Leakey fuel line. I would try to get the return line on the filter at a 12:00 position, and try to route the fuel line so its running uphill to the carburator from the fuel pump. Next time it dies pull off the air cleaner and see if its squirting fuel from the accelerator pump. If it is, time to check ignition module.
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Unread 03-20-2013, 01:22 PM   #6
WagenWheels
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Well played with it some more today. I made the adjustments to the fuel filter. I am getting fuel. I let it run for 10 mins and it died. Right when it died i check the carb, fuel does spray in. It always starts right back up. It will only run for 10-30 seconds and die. If i let the engine cool for a while it will run longer, if i let it completely cool down it will run for 10 mins again. Any suggestions. I am not to sure i am capable of messing with the timing. Do you think that is the problem? Thanks for the help so far, i will post pictures of the wagoneer soon.
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Unread 03-20-2013, 01:23 PM   #7
WagenWheels
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Also when it dies, it doesn't sputter or slowly die, it just shuts off.
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Unread 03-20-2013, 01:38 PM   #8
revelc
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Mine did the same thing. IT WAS my fuel lines that were the culprit. Left me stranded 90 miles from the nearest town in any direction. Change them first. It's not expensive to buy a few feet of it and some clamps. Obviously when it gets warm something is expanding and allowing fuel out OR air in.
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 03-20-2013, 02:02 PM   #9
super98lsc
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Check spark, connect a timing light and sit there and hold the button on the gun, if she stops flashing then the engine dies then you know the ignition is cutting out. Could be the duraspark box is going bad heating up and opening the circuit or the coil is crapping out. Either way you will have your answer. The inductive timing light will only flash if there is spark present.
That or get a buddy you dont like to hold your #one plug wire wearing a tinfoil glove with wet hair when he stops yelling the ignition has cut out.

The fuel lines are the 1st thing you should replace on anything that sat that long period, your asking for a mega fire as the Ethanol in the fuels today eats the lines up in 2 years as it is much less sitting in a barn for 15.
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01 WJ 4x2 4.7v8 Limited (needs valve job)
90 Grand Wagoneer 401 Edelbrock Heads, Lunati .510/.527 FT Cam, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, Holley HP 750, Thorley Headers, HEI, Electric Fan w Digital controller,4" lift 31x10.50 Goodyear Duratrac's on Pro-Comp Wheels,new interior, seats,seals,Alpine and JL full system, Remote HEI, Clifford 2 way with remote start,windows,tailgate.
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Unread 03-20-2013, 02:27 PM   #10
RockRollin
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Definitely check, replace fuel lines.
X2 on the duraspark control box. Sounding like an ignition upgrade is in order.
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Clawed: 90GW, TFI, Streetfire, 3"lift all spring, 31"BFG ATs, working RKE, Edel2131, Holly 1850, mild cam,
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Unread 03-20-2013, 07:32 PM   #11
WagenWheels
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Well...Replaced fuel lines tonight, which didn't fix the issue but was badly needed. A few of them were in bad shape. I got the timing light out, the light was not very steady just before dieing. It actually skipped a beat, then blinked back on then died. Which component would you change? Thanks.
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Unread 03-20-2013, 08:28 PM   #12
super98lsc
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Im going to bet the duraspark is done. But change the cap, rotor, coil there could be moisture or all sorts of BS gone bad there. At that point u should consider the tfi coil, cap, rotor, wires upgrade. As far as the box on driver inner fender goes, check the wiring for solid connections, if it still craps out then the next best option would be to run new wiring which is not terribly difficult and replace the duraspark with an hei module, 4 pin typr from parts store. It must be mounted to a good heat sink. Two wires will go to the plug on the distributor, one will go to switched ignition power 12+ easily tapped on the remote starter soleniod on passenger fender, and lastly one to the coils tach side (usually green wire) i'm on cell phone now but can dig up a diagram if you cant find online. Heres how mine looks.
forumrunner_20130320_212759.jpg  
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06-Corvette z51-6spd,b&b,K&N low miles.
77-Corvette Stingray 496 BBC/TH400 built 667hp+
===================================
00 WJ 4x4, 4.7 stroker, turbocharged,..lots more..
01 WJ 4x2 4.7v8 Limited (needs valve job)
90 Grand Wagoneer 401 Edelbrock Heads, Lunati .510/.527 FT Cam, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, Holley HP 750, Thorley Headers, HEI, Electric Fan w Digital controller,4" lift 31x10.50 Goodyear Duratrac's on Pro-Comp Wheels,new interior, seats,seals,Alpine and JL full system, Remote HEI, Clifford 2 way with remote start,windows,tailgate.
96 Cherokee Country 4dr/2x2 White/Tan 3" Lift Sahara 18" Wheels 32.5"'s 99up head and intake- for sale soon!
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Unread 03-20-2013, 08:57 PM   #13
revelc
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1985 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
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Or MSD Pro-Billet dizzy for a little extra oomph
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 03-21-2013, 02:35 PM   #14
WagenWheels
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When you say duraspark, are you referring to the entire ignition system? I replaced the coil today, didnt help but it didnt hurt it. Should i get an entire new distributor? or just do the cap and rotor now? Thanks
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Unread 03-21-2013, 03:04 PM   #15
revelc
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That is a topic of debate. Some say just replaced what isn't working or is prone to fail. Some replace it entirely. I went the performance route which wasn't cheap but I noticed a difference in throttle response and start ups. It also gave me a chance to replace some of the poopy wiring, set a rev limiter, and run a tach. I heard a lot of opinions but it came down to preference.
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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