TBI Conversion - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 31 Old 01-04-2014, 12:27 AM Thread Starter
Renodemona
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1976 FSJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Reno
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TBI Conversion

Greetings! I have ordered up a TBI conversion kit for my ride. Looking for any tips/advice on putting the holes in the firewall to pass the wires to the brain box through. Also looking for shots of how you re-routed or deleted vacuum hoses. Also where you put the sensors. Of course if there is a sweet build thread with that stuff already in it, just point me in the right direction!

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post #2 of 31 Old 01-04-2014, 06:22 AM
RockRollin
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1990 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
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There is much experience over here
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...bd8d3a47f99abd
Not something I know much about. I have a full GM TBI setup in a box, still gets my interest now and then, just can't get by the "no computer on my FSJ" thinking.

"I like fun" Edd
Clawed: 90GW, TFI, Streetfire, 3"lift all spring, 31"BFG ATs, working RKE, Edel2131, Holly 1850, mild cam,
05 Renegade OME 927, 947, top plate, JBA 4.5s
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post #3 of 31 Old 01-04-2014, 12:36 PM
CSP
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Your kit should tell you where the sensors should go.
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post #4 of 31 Old 01-06-2014, 07:27 PM
Mack83
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Hope you have a closed loop system! Im getting ready to do the same thing. I already have the Intake on it with a 4 barrel, but I am planning to put my ProJection kit on soon. As far a vacuum lines, the distributor, brake booster, and EGR valve (if you have one) has vacuum. I dont think Im forgetting anything. If you have a smog system it may require some vacuum lines too. I eliminated my smog, I live in a state that doesn't require it smog testing.

As far as sensors go, your kit should tell you where to install them. You may replace some that are already existing sensors. If you have any questions about installing your kit just PM me. I have a fair amount of experience with TBI systems. They are pretty simple!
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post #5 of 31 Old 01-07-2014, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
Renodemona
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1976 FSJ Cherokee 
 
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It is a straight TBI swap without VSS or timing. What makes it closed loop? No emissions for me, hooray! Started the tear down. Removed the carb and some vacuum stuff already, installed new PCV and grommet. If it is warm enough tomorrow before work I'll have the rest of the vacuum stuff off. Going to have to wait on an EGR block off plate to come from UPS though. Hoping the carb studs aren't too much of a hassle to get out. But judging from past projects...
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post #6 of 31 Old 01-07-2014, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
Renodemona
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Also, I have an adapter that screws into one of the old banjo bolt boles (which is 14mm while the sensor is 18mm) will that get the O2 sensor enough into the manifold to read properly? I would imagine it doesn't have to have a much of exhaust gas blowing directly over it, does it? I do have a bung/welder but I'd like to save some time if I can.
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post #7 of 31 Old 01-07-2014, 07:56 AM
CSP
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You need to install the O2 sensor where it's picking up more of a mix from each cylinder on that side of the engine.

Which kit do you have?
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post #8 of 31 Old 01-07-2014, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
Renodemona
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Warr Performance out of Cali. Pretty small shop that mostly does sand rails and drag cars. Reman Throttle body, new fuel pump/relay, wiring harness, sensors etc.
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post #9 of 31 Old 01-07-2014, 06:47 PM
Mack83
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As far as closed loop, sounds like your kit cam with an O2 sensor and wiring already. The closed loop setup adjusts fuel mixture automatically. It matters most when you drive in an area where you have extreme ambient tempatures, and elevation. As far as the bung goes, CSP is correct, you need to mount it down stream. If your exhaust has a Y pipe, then you want to try and mount it after the two sides come together. You want it reading both sides. Yes you would want as much of the O2 sensor as far down into the exhaust stream as possible!
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post #10 of 31 Old 01-07-2014, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
Renodemona
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OK then, will have to do that! Kit arrived today but I don't have time to start messing with stuff. Dang work getting in the way of fun stuff
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post #11 of 31 Old 01-07-2014, 09:47 PM
CSP
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Gotta be careful with going too far downstream if it's not a heated oxygen sensor. The exhaust can be too cool to work properly if it's too far away from the cylnders.

If you have any particular questions it's probably best to contact Warr Performance. As small as they are there's no telling what GM protocol they are following and what they aren't. Part of the expense of buying a kit is trouble free installation with specifics about how to do it along with support if there's problems.
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post #12 of 31 Old 01-08-2014, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
Renodemona
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Pictures! Not much progress, but it is a start. Got the adapter plates mounted and the temperature sensor installed. Got the fuel line connectors installed on the throttle body and removed all the old lines. Started mounting the fuel pump but the drill battery died. Guess I should charge up tools before starting a project.
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IMG_0959.JPG   IMG_0960.JPG   IMG_0961.JPG   IMG_0962.JPG  
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post #13 of 31 Old 01-09-2014, 08:05 AM
CSP
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You're going to need a different adapter from the throttle body to the intake manifold. Your throttle plates won't open with that 4bbl carb adapter there. The plenum needs to be open or the same size as the throttle plates in your throttle body.
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post #14 of 31 Old 01-11-2014, 08:44 AM
Mack83
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Looking good, but CSP is correct about the adaptor! You may want to check into the adaptors that Holley makes for TBI.
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post #15 of 31 Old 01-11-2014, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
Renodemona
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Got a different adapter plate with an open center. There is a bonus to having a brick and mortar Summit store 10 mins down the street Might still have to grind a little bit, but at least it will flow much better.
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