"Still Smokin" - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 32 Old 05-01-2013, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
rabbott1
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"Still Smokin"

Well as some of you know I recently replaced the valve seals in my 360. It stopped my leak out the exhaust valve, but it's still smokin like there is no tomorrow. So starts this new thread. I will be tearing into the engine these next couple weeks to find out what kind of condition my cylinders and rings are in, and replacing the rings(hopefully). Compression test only shows around 90 on that cylinder. Anybody know what it should be? 120? Not sure. Will be taking plenty of pics and posting them as I go, I know how much you guys love this kinda stuff! Wish me luck!

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post #2 of 32 Old 05-01-2013, 12:14 PM
RockRollin
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Did you check that cylinder with some oil in it?

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post #3 of 32 Old 05-01-2013, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
rabbott1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRollin View Post
Did you check that cylinder with some oil in it?
Do you mean actually putting oil in through the plug hole first?
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post #4 of 32 Old 05-01-2013, 01:23 PM
79chiefs
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Yes, that will show if your rings are worn. The oil will get around the piston and help it hold pressure. If your pressure is noticeably higher then it is worn rings. You did a dry compression test, the oil in the hold(only a bit) is a wet test for worn rings.

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post #5 of 32 Old 05-01-2013, 03:15 PM
RockRollin
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Couple o caps full, turn it over two seconds, and compression test time.
It would suck to chase a bad ring when a burnt valve is the problem.

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Clawed: 90GW, TFI, Streetfire, 3"lift all spring, 31"BFG ATs, working RKE, Edel2131, Holly 1850, mild cam,
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post #6 of 32 Old 05-01-2013, 09:13 PM
revelc
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If your feeling frisky pull that head , drop oil pan, pull that piston, get a ball hone, hone with motor oil, replace that specific pistons rings, retorque all to spec, drink a beer. It's not what I'd do for a customer, but if its mine it would be my fix.

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post #7 of 32 Old 05-02-2013, 05:17 AM Thread Starter
rabbott1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revelc View Post
If your feeling frisky pull that head , drop oil pan, pull that piston, get a ball hone, hone with motor oil, replace that specific pistons rings, retorque all to spec, drink a beer. It's not what I'd do for a customer, but if its mine it would be my fix.
That's pretty much what I had planned, except I might go ahead and replace all the rings on that one side since I'm going to have the head off anyway. Hate to have to take the same one apart down the road. Then i can patiently wait for the other side to start.
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post #8 of 32 Old 05-02-2013, 05:18 AM Thread Starter
rabbott1
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Should I replace the rod bearings while I'm at it?
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post #9 of 32 Old 05-02-2013, 08:55 AM
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbott1

That's pretty much what I had planned, except I might go ahead and replace all the rings on that one side since I'm going to have the head off anyway. Hate to have to take the same one apart down the road. Then i can patiently wait for the other side to start.
If your already doing a whole bank do all of them. It will only take a little longer. And if your rod bearings look good don't replace them. Just make sure each one stays with the piston it came out with. If you start Saturday morning you could easily be done by that evening. After your done use some shop towels and clean each hole with rake cleaner. And I'd go ahead and change the oil after a few hundred miles just to be safe.

Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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post #10 of 32 Old 07-04-2013, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
rabbott1
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Ok update on the motor, just went ahead and pulled it and put it on the engine stand. Tore it down and after beadblasting and magnaflux found I have a cracked head! Anybody have one laying around? 5.9 360 casting #3233344 ?
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post #11 of 32 Old 07-05-2013, 08:47 AM
super98lsc
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I hate to say it but I knew that head had to have something seriously wrong with it. Are the walls scored up in that cylinder? If they are not and the rings are fine I would just swap the head and run it until you are ready to yank the motor and do a full refresh properly. With a bad head and over/under-cooling and who knows what else those cylinder bores may not be round any more. If they are tapered enough the new rings will never seat and it will be worse off than you are now. If the bores are still cross hatched nicely then like Revelc said you might get away with the quick ball hone and ring job. But be certain the pistons end up back in the hole they came out of. On the flip side you need to do both banks, if one bank has higher compression than the other then the engine will never run properly. Likely idle rough, and mixtures/timing on one bank will be very different from the opposing bank. Almost like mixing a half dead battery in with a new one= dim and short lived flashlight but might get you back to base.

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post #12 of 32 Old 07-05-2013, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
rabbott1
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Yeah cross-hatching still in good shape, and measured the bore throughout all cylinders and everything is even, 4.08. There wasn't even any carbon build-up on the ridges. Believe someone has already been into this motor before, the heads had brass valve guides pressed in. Don't think they came from the factory that way. Anyway, still on the hunt for a new head any ideas?
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post #13 of 32 Old 07-08-2013, 07:50 PM
chris64
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Oh that is tough news! Look in cincy craigslist for 360 . The guy I bought the block had some heads too, I think you could get them cheap, he is in
Erlanger, so only a couple minutes from you! Let me know how it goes!!
C
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post #14 of 32 Old 07-08-2013, 07:52 PM
chris64
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Did Monarch do the blasting for you?
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post #15 of 32 Old 07-09-2013, 05:01 AM Thread Starter
rabbott1
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Yeah monarch did them, was fairly quick about it too surprisingly. Can you pm me that guys contact info if you have it? Glad to hear you found a block!
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