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Unread 02-02-2012, 04:35 PM   #1
ed1
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1988 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: South Texas, Texas
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Some questions about my 88' Grand Wagonner?

I just got myself an awesome 88' Grand Wagoneer, great truck, some cosmetic issues that will soon get fixed. Anyway, I have some questions about my "new" truck, first of all, which is the correct way to engage the 4x4 on these trucks, I don't think this truck has shift on the fly so there's got to be a different way to switch to 4WD. Our 77' dodge ramcharger needs the 4 low to be engaged on a complete stop, neutral and if necessary without the engine running, according to the owner's manual, I wonder if this is similar, but since the Wagoneer has the 4wd electric switch and the manual lever, which do you move first the switch or the lever?
Another question, this wagoneer was left untouched for months, in other words it wasn't started for months and I would really like to change the engine's oil ASAP so my question is which oil type the AMC 360 requires and which is the best brand I should use. Synthetic or regular? I really need good detailed answers since it's the first time I own a Wagoneer and it really needs TLC, I definitely welcome any kind of tips.
I surely will be posting more questions once I continue fixing it.
Thanks everyone.

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Unread 02-03-2012, 06:34 AM   #2
muddy93
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1987 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
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do you know which transfer case you have? there will be a round tag on the back of the case, that will have numbers on it.

by your description, which sounds like what I have in my 87, you have a 229, but that could have been swapped out by a PO (Previous Owner), so it's a good idea to double check.
If you have the 229, it can be shifted into and out of 4hi at any speed (within reason), by moving the "switch" on the dash. Oh, and that switch is vacuum operated by the way, it is not electric.

Also, the 4hi on the 229, is a "full time" mode. These cases have a viscous coupler between the T-case outputs, and because of this, you basically have AWD (All Wheel Drive) when in 4hi.

The "flag shifter" (the one on the floor) Is for shifting into and out of lo range. And, lo range is considered "part time". When in lo, the viscous coupler is locked together. When in lo range, it should be treated just like any other part time case, and not used on hard/high traction surfaces (like pavement).

Here's the shifting procedure.
2wd to 4hi = move vacuum switch on dash, at any safe driving speed.
4hi to 4lo = wile roling slowly (less than 5 mph), put transmission in neutral, pull floor shifter back to the 4lo position, and then put the transmisson back in gear.

Again, this is assuming that you have the 229 case, and it has not been altered by a PO. Also, if the front hubs have been swapped out for manual ones, this will change the procedure slightly.

And, check out www.ifsja.org it's a forum just for full size jeeps, with a lot of good info.
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Unread 02-03-2012, 04:06 PM   #3
ed1
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Ok, thanks a lot for your info, I will surely check the transfer case once I get to it since the Jeep is getting fixed right now (small rust holes behind wheels), also since the truck was left untouched for many months, I would really like to change the oil, so which type of oil should I use on the 360 engine, would you recommend like an engine restorer or something like that?
Thanks.
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Unread 02-06-2012, 09:11 PM   #4
ed1
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Will it be good to use some kind of engine flush or engine restorer on the 360? Or is just the oil chage itself enough? I was researching online, and the most used oil on the 360 engines was the 10w-30... What do you think? I still need to get to know my truck, but you know, no owner's manual, and I can't seem to find any labels for that.
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Unread 02-07-2012, 05:46 AM   #5
muddy93
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10W-30 should be fine(that's what I run in my waggy). A "flush" should not really be needed, unless, for some reason, you suspect that there is a lot of sludge buildup. If you do have a lot of sludge, you can pick up a can of seafoam, and run that through right before you change the oil.
Also, if you decide to run a synthetic oil, be prepared for leaks. It has been my experience that, on a higher milage engine, when you switch to synthetic, it tends to "clean" the engine and remove buildup deposits that may be plugging small leaks in some of the seals.
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Unread 02-07-2012, 07:41 AM   #6
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No need for a flush. With 10w-30 as what was recommended when it was new, it wouldn't hurt to run 5w-30, which didn't exist when that waggy was built. The older engines gain the same cold start benefits as new engines from the lower cold rated viscosity.
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Unread 02-07-2012, 12:30 PM   #7
CutterN55
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If it's got a lot of miles or low oil pressure I'd run 10-40. If not 5 or 10w30 be fine.
I run 15w40 diesel oil in mine.
Synthetic oil will leak no matter what it's in it seems... even with new seals LOL!
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Unread 02-11-2012, 02:23 PM   #8
ed1
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Ok, I got it with the engine's oil, now the transmission, the last time I drove it, I noticed that I had to accelerate a little hard to get the truck moving after a complete stop, while driving, it shifts from 1st to 2nd gear normally with no problems, but it would remain a little while on 2nd, it was a little high on rpm's during 2nd gear, but I don't remember if I had the shifter on 2nd since it doesn't have the red gear selector indicator, anyway when I tried to put the shifter on D (drive) I drove on the highway and 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears shift perfectly, I guess my only problem is that it struggles a little to move after a complete stop but I never felt the transmission slipping, it just felt a little rough. What could it be? Any ideas?
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