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TeraFlex Now at Rockridge 4WD! BEST DEALS around!Alloy usa heavy duty ball joint kitsENGO QUADLUX 6" to 54" LED AMBER AND WHITE MULTI

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Unread 08-13-2010, 05:54 PM   #16
robert_hollis
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2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,140
Well, I'm having an issue with the electric fan on this thing. I believe the PO put in the 2 speed electric fan from BJ's Offroad. Anyhow, When I bought it, he said it was blowing fuses, so he'd just put in a jumper wire to make it work. I put in a 30A fuse, and haven't had that fuse blow yet. But I did have the original 5 pin relay go out, and I swapped in a spare 5 pin relay that I had lying around (which I don't think was as heavy duty), and that lasted about 2 days before it went out as well...

So, that happened to me while I was sitting in 5 o'clock traffic in Houston on this nice hot afternoon... Yeah, It was about all I could do to get to a shaded spot on a side road, and kill the engine before it overheated, and spit up coolant...

So, I ended up having to run a jumper wire straight from the battery to the fan's two positive wires, to get it working (not safe, but the only way I was gonna get anywhere without overheating). Autozone doesn't carry the heavy duty 5 pin relay I need, and I'm not even sure that would fix my problem. I checked all the wires and connections I could get to (which is basically everything but the manual on/off switch in the dash), and they all seem good. The fan ground, and relay negative hook up look good, but I may remove and clean both of those just the same.

The green wire on the relay hookup (which is supposed to go to a temp sensor, I think) is not hooked up to anything, and never has been.

I know I'm not providing all the info, but anyone got a clue? I'm probably going to replace the switch, just in case.

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Unread 08-13-2010, 06:14 PM   #17
BJ's Off-Road
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If it is one of ours, the green wire is the A/C override, or a manual switch. When you aren't moving in traffic and your turn your A/C on, the fan would kick on (assuming the green wire is hooked to the compressor) as you have to have air running through your condenser when the A/C is on.

If you don't have A/C, you wouldn't use this wire or you could use it for a manual on switch.

Here are some instructions for the relay box that I found on summits site:

http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../der-16749.pdf

Hopefully that will help, if not, let me know and we'll see if we can get you a new controller.

Here are the instructions for the fan:

http://www.bjsoffroad.com/instructio...stallation.pdf
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Unread 08-13-2010, 07:53 PM   #18
robert_hollis
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I'm pretty sure it's one of yours. It's a Derale fan, and it's hooked up to one of your 2nd gen. crossflow radiators. I figure the PO probably got the fan when he got the radiator... Thanks for the controller info. I didn't see that on your website, and I was only guessing.

When it's light out, again, I will totally check all this out.
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Unread 08-17-2010, 01:10 AM   #19
robert_hollis
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I started having a funky idle yesterday, and it felt like the Jeep was misfiring on one cylinder, plus I kept hearing popping from the exhaust during deceleration.

I checked all my connections and plug wires, but everything felt tight.

So, I figured I'd throw new plugs at it, and see if that would solve the issue. I didn't know how old the plugs were, or what kind, and I thought now's as good a time as any to set myself straight on that issue.

I bought some Champion Platinums (3405), made sure they were all gapped to .035, then proceeded to do the install. Other than dropping one while trying to squeeze past the master cylinder, to get to the back driver side plug, I did alright (I replaced the dropped one just in case).

The old plugs were all Denso Iridiums (IW16), and they were all right about .040. None of them looked to be horrible, but I dunno.

Don't worry, I used anti-seize and di-electric grease.

Jeep fired right up, and idled much smoother. I'm not sure, if the new plugs were necessary, but the problem's gone. However, now I'm wondering if I need to widen gap, or not. I really don't know if the ignition is stock or what. The plug wires don't look like anything fancy, and the distributor looks like a plain old black distributor to me, so... The coil is is yellow, so I'm figuring it's aftermarket, but I don't know if it's some fancy type or what. (Update: after cleaning it up, I figured out the coil is an Accel 8140 Super Stock)


Oh, and on the fan relay, mine's wired differently than the instructions I saw on summitracing, so yeah... I think I'll just try another heavy duty relay, and see how long it lasts.
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1978 Cherokee Chief - bought for parts, and sold as a runner
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Unread 08-21-2010, 02:45 PM   #20
robert_hollis
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So, I actually started tearing into this fan wiring harness, and this is what I have...

The fan has 3 wires coming off it. A black a brown and a gray. The brown and gray are positives, and the black is a ground.

Currently the black is grounded, and the brown and gray are wired to the relay.

The relay is plugged into a control module which has 8 wires coming out of it and an adjustment screw on it. It does not look like the one in the summit racing instructions, but it may just be an older model of the same thing. I think it is, at least...

The control module wires are...

Orange
Blue
Yellow
Green
Red
black
double black (2 small wires connected together in a similar manner as speaker wire)

The connection is like this:

Orange - Fan Brown
Blue - Fan Grey
Yellow - Switch(?)
Green - not connected
Red - Battery +
Black - Battery -
double black - switch(?) <---temp sensor

I tried tracking down where the double black and yellow splice in with the switch, but it happens somewhere near the firewall (in the engine bay I think), and is covered by yards and yards of electric tape...

I guess, the Yellow goes to the switch or an ignition on power source, and the two black wires are the hi and low wires that connect to the switch. <---blacks went to temp sensor

The switch that the PO used was the old AC Fan switch from the Jeep. Since the AC was completely removed, these controls weren't being used... When I redo the dash, and replace all the gauges with a new custom setup, I will wire in a dedicated fan switch. But that's not gonna be for a while...
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[URL="https://picasaweb.google.com/hollisr4/TJ?feat=directlink"]2006 TJ[/URL]
[URL="http://picasaweb.google.com/hollisr4/1979JeepCherokee?feat=directlink"]1979 SJ[/URL]
1978 Cherokee Chief - bought for parts, and sold as a runner

Last edited by robert_hollis; 07-25-2011 at 04:23 PM.. Reason: updated some info
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Unread 08-28-2010, 01:48 PM   #21
robert_hollis
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Awesome... Now I seem to have a bad head gasket... Gotta love these old vehicles....


(turned out I had a bad valve cover gasket, and a warped header)
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[URL="https://picasaweb.google.com/hollisr4/TJ?feat=directlink"]2006 TJ[/URL]
[URL="http://picasaweb.google.com/hollisr4/1979JeepCherokee?feat=directlink"]1979 SJ[/URL]
1978 Cherokee Chief - bought for parts, and sold as a runner

Last edited by robert_hollis; 07-25-2011 at 04:25 PM.. Reason: (update)
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Unread 10-05-2010, 02:41 PM   #22
robert_hollis
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Ordered some Monstaliner, and am about to strip the interior so I can patch the floors, replace the wood panels, and line the entire interior (ceiling, too).

Anyone in Houston work for beer and BBQ???
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1978 Cherokee Chief - bought for parts, and sold as a runner
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Unread 10-08-2010, 11:34 AM   #23
Tom76
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Nice Chief

I like your Chief!!! I dont like putting in those aftermarket fans. As far as reliability goes, I don't think you can beat a clutch fan. Either way, its all ready there so good luck. Either way, I like that Jeep..good find.

Tom
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Unread 10-09-2010, 04:40 PM   #24
robert_hollis
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Thanks.

The interior's pretty much stripped, now.

The bed was in great shape after I removed the metal runners, and carpet. The front pans... Not so much... But I already knew they needed work.

Removing the front seats was such a pain. They weren't the original seats, and whoever had put them in hadn't bothered to actually do the job right. So, the brackets didn't line up with the factory holes, the floor pans weren't reinforced where the brackets were bolted in, and random (different size and strength) nuts and bolts were used to bolt them in. Plus, they were all seized. I actually ended up just getting out the angle grinder, and grinding all the bolts down to get the seats out.

Back seat came out without much hassle. The fold and tumble mechanism still works fairly well. Rear seatbelts all came out nice and easy (I had been worried about that). I guess 3 days of PB Blaster probably didn't hurt.

The rear wooden panels will obviously need to be replaced. I'm thinking of just using some thick sheet metal, for that. Same with the door panels. Sheet metal and Monstaliner...

Also, I just saw something on the TJ forum that has me considering putting some slim powered 8" marine subs in the rear quarter panels, behind the removable panels. Not a huge sound person, but the idea is appealing. That, or converting all that space into storage space. Thoughts? Ideas? Criticisms?

PLMRBS8 - 8-Inch Low-Profile Super Slim Active Amplified Marine/Waterproof Subwoofer System

Oh, and I need to do something about a roof rack...
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1978 Cherokee Chief - bought for parts, and sold as a runner
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Unread 11-03-2010, 04:00 AM   #25
Zorlofe
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Nice progress! I just got a 78 Cherokee and am trying to find a place to get some new rear interior panels but haven't been able to find any. Do you know of a place to get some? Looks like we'll be working on some of the same issues...
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Unread 11-03-2010, 03:57 PM   #26
robert_hollis
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Either BJ's Offroad, or Team Grand Wagoneer. Since I plan on fabricating my own panels, I haven't really looked around.
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1978 Cherokee Chief - bought for parts, and sold as a runner
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Unread 11-03-2010, 04:28 PM   #27
gotmike
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were the two positive wires for the fan wired together??? if so then there's your problem... or is one speed hooked to the N/O terminal the other to the N/C terminal???
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Unread 11-04-2010, 02:14 AM   #28
Zorlofe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert_hollis View Post
Either BJ's Offroad, or Team Grand Wagoneer. Since I plan on fabricating my own panels, I haven't really looked around.
Thanks for the response. I didn't see anything at either but I might have overlooked something. I may just have to hire somebody to do the same for me.
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Unread 11-04-2010, 10:51 AM   #29
robert_hollis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotmike View Post
were the two positive wires for the fan wired together??? if so then there's your problem... or is one speed hooked to the N/O terminal the other to the N/C terminal???
I never did figure out exactly what was wrong. I ended up rewiring part of it according to a schematic I found, and it works fine now. I think the issue was either a bad switch, or a bad wire going to the switch.

(UPDATE... I eventually figured out the control module that the relay plugged into was the culprit. Instead of buying a new one, I simply cut it out, and now have a fan that is on/off via switch and relay. No Hi/low and no temp control. I don't need them, since I watch the gauges.)

Of course, MY Cherokee's still down, because the guy who was gonna fix my floor pans for me, ended up having to have back surgery, and I'm waiting on him to recover. Plus, I'm currently busy 7 days a week...
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[URL="https://picasaweb.google.com/hollisr4/TJ?feat=directlink"]2006 TJ[/URL]
[URL="http://picasaweb.google.com/hollisr4/1979JeepCherokee?feat=directlink"]1979 SJ[/URL]
1978 Cherokee Chief - bought for parts, and sold as a runner

Last edited by robert_hollis; 07-25-2011 at 04:30 PM.. Reason: (UPDATE)
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Unread 11-04-2010, 12:17 PM   #30
gotmike
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sweet... you a member over on ifsja.org too???
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