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Previous owner used Dexron not Plus4 .... any long term effects?
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Previous owner used Dexron not Plus4 .... any long term effects?
I am trying to locate a transmission leak in my 86 grand wagoneer. It seems like it's coming from everywhere. I got a new trans oil pan gasket and was about to replace but it think the problem is much larger than that.
Does the excessive leak have anything to do with the dexron? There is a two foot by two foot puddle under the pan this morning. Could it be coming from up above the pan? Due to circumstances beyond my control I am forced to use this truck almost daily, so I need this fixed. Should I start with the pan gasket or am I wasting my time?
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#2 |
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Doubtful that Dexron would cause a leak.
Shifter shaft seals could be bad, among other things since you say it's above the pan. |
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#3 |
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Dexron III is what you should use. Try cleaning up the bottom of the tranny and see if you can find an oil track to tell where it's coming from. Could be a front seal or a shift post o-ring like was mentioned, but with that much atf I'm wondering if your dip stick tube worked its way out of the pan body.
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Texas Full Size Jeep Association (TxFSJa.org) |
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#4 | |
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Quote:
I washed it and wiped it down, it is definitely coming from the same side as the shifter. Whats involved with replacing those seals? Should I do it when I do the pan gasket just incase? |
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#5 |
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Yes. IIRC, after you drop the pan, just remove the linkage from the shifter post and drop the valve body down. There is an o-ring inside the post hole.
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Texas Full Size Jeep Association (TxFSJa.org) |
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#6 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
OK good lookin' out. Shifter shaft seals and the pan gasket/filter....is there anything else I should replace while I have it open? |
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#7 |
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If the leak seems to be coming from there, just try that and see how it does. The only other thing I can suggest is to get a rubber pan gasket, and not the cork. Most places should have it.
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Texas Full Size Jeep Association (TxFSJa.org) |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Does that o-ring have a specific name or size --
The waggy is my only transportation to the parts store, and specifically, "shifter shaft seals" does not show up in the online inventory. I could take it apart to match the worn seal, but then I couldn't get to the store to buy it. Any help? |
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#9 |
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Which parts store will you be going to, and I'll look online for a name or part#.
Edit: Autozone calls it a selector shaft seal http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?skuDescription=Timken+/+Transmission+Seal&categoryDisplayName=Drivetrain& fromString=&itemIdentifier=228463_0_0_7910%2C26887 &productId=228463&sortType=&parentId=12-0&filterByKeyWord=&isSearchByPartNumber=&navValue= 11200074&categoryNValue=&fromWhere=&itemId=74-0&displayName=Transmission+Seal&store=1430&searchT ext=&brandName=Timken At O'Reilly's it's a manual control lever seal? (That could be the seal for the kick down linkage, but I think that one is #3.) http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/A!s!T+Seals+&+O-Rings/03210/C0071.oap?make=Jeep&model=Grand+Wagoneer&year=1986 &vi=1182349 I had to use my zip code to look it up. I believe what you're looking for is #2 on the list. If these aren't right, at least you have a starting point, and maybe the parts clerk can figure it out from there. Maybe. The links were under Transmission/Seals on their websites. Get the tranny filter for about $7.50 and it comes with a gasket. Usually two. One for your 727 and one for the 999(?). Compare to your pan to see which is which. It would help if you could get it out and take it with you, but if it is brittle or probably damaged and you can't find one to replace it, then that will be bad. Do what you think is best.
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Texas Full Size Jeep Association (TxFSJa.org) Last edited by WaveHunter; 11-20-2009 at 01:59 PM.. |
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#10 |
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Advance Auto is the only one in my immediate town. THis is the page for auto trans seal....
Automatic Transmission Seals - Advance Auto Parts can you ID the one I would probably want? |
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#11 |
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I don't see anything like it there.
If you can check the size before you go, you might be able to find it as a generic o-ring in the help-rack at the store. That may be your best bet. Try to measure the O.D. of the shift post after you drop the valve body. IIRC, my seal was seated in a groove inside the shift post hole. You may find one that will work that way.
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Texas Full Size Jeep Association (TxFSJa.org) |
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#12 | |
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Quote:
Can anyone walk me through this? I've got everything open, pan is down, filter off. I am ready to do what's quoted above, but I'm not sure what is what, and I don't want to lose and springs under tension or anything. |
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#13 |
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Yours should be like mine. After you remove the filter, you need to loosen the clamp bolt at the end of the tranny shift linkage from the column on the shift post shaft sticking up from above the pan area on the driver's side so that you can remove the linkage. Then remove those small bolts on the bottom of the valve body. Keep an eye on the parking prawl (the silver shaft sticking toward the rear), I believe it just slides out as you work the valve body down. There will also be a big round silver thing with a spring behind it that will drop drown with the valve body. IIRC, the spring should be cone shaped and needs to go back the same way.
Check the shifter post seal inside the hole below where you took off the linkage and replace the seal if you have one. It will probably take a pick, scratch awl, or small screwdriver to get the old o-ring out. Wipe a little tranny fluid on the new o-ring for lubrication so it will seal. Replace the valve body in reverse order. Take you time and be sure to put the silver puck and spring back in the way it came out, and the parking prawl goes back in its hole. (That's what locks your transmission when you put it in park.) You will probably have to work the valve body/shift post back up in there a little, as the new o-ring should be a snug fit. Replace the valve body bolts, reconnect the shift linkage, check again to make sure you didn't have any left over parts and check shifting from column. A common mistake is to forget to tighten the linkage clamp bolt and your column shifter becomes loose and sloppy. Replace the filter then the pan, partially fill with fluid and check for pan leaks. After about four quarts start engine, and with the tranny in neutral with wheels blocked, check fluid and fill the rest of the way. Edit: Don't flip the valve body over, or pull the gasket thing off. There may be three small ball bearings that need to go/stay in specific holes. I don't remember exactly where they go. Just drop the valve body straight down and set it in the drain pan like it sits on the transmission. Then put it straight back up the same way. If the bb's fall out, you will need a picture from a Haynes manual or something to know where they go back. So try to be careful with it. I hope I remembered everything and this makes sense. Take your time and you should be fine.
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Texas Full Size Jeep Association (TxFSJa.org) Last edited by WaveHunter; 11-21-2009 at 12:58 PM.. |
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#14 |
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One last thing. Don't wipe stuff down with a rag. Lint or a thread can clog a fluid passage, and that would be a problem. You can use some brake cleaner and a rag to clean the pan gasket surface, just be very careful and keep a good eye for any threads. I fold a rag over and use the middle part of it, then scan, and scan again for any lint that may have come off of the rag. Good luck with it.
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Texas Full Size Jeep Association (TxFSJa.org) |
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#15 |
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I guess it would be easier if I drop the front driveshaft.
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