Possible new J10 owner..anything to look for? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 45 Old 04-08-2013, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Possible new J10 owner..anything to look for?

hello all! first off i wanna apologize if this is a topic beat to death here on the full size side! I am a proud owner of an '83 CJ7...BUT have always longed for an ol J10 or gladiator...my grampa had one, and now it may be my turn! I have stumbled across a 1974 J10..auto 360..good shape..just surface rust..needs some TLC..but i am excited...has a "misfire" not sure if its intake or? when u spray carb clean near intake it revs up..so..most likely..but wondering if u guys may have any ideas on what to be concerned about/look out for?! Has paperwork for most stuff including the tranny being rebuilt in 1998...(th400)..i can score this for under a grand...so i have some room for repairs and interior is a lil rough..but floorboards and bed are solid..no rust holes..
thanks in advance for ANY input or help anyone may be willing to give..i am looking forward to joining the full size jeep side..FINALLY!
hoping to pick it up this week..

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post #2 of 45 Old 04-09-2013, 09:32 AM
timgr
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Learn about the Borg-Warner Quadratrac - http://jubileejeeps.org/quadratrac/

1) '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps. 2) '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, KOs, 7600 GVWR 3) '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top 4) '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
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post #3 of 45 Old 04-09-2013, 11:10 AM
rabbott1
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Buy it! Just be prepared to sink some money into it. Any of these older trucks are going to need alot of love and attention. So if you don't like working on them, don't waste your time. FSJ's RULE!!!
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post #4 of 45 Old 04-09-2013, 11:24 AM
revelc
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Either vacuum lines are rotted or the I carb or intake have an issue. One of the first mods we do it replace the intake with an Edelbrock intake and Holley or Edelbrock carb. You could address all these issue at once by doing the swap. I'd recommend doing the TFI or HEI mods. Search the forums for these recommendations. There is a plethora of information on them.

These mods will make it perform better, more reliable, and even consume less fuel, IF you can stay out of the skinny pedal

Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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post #5 of 45 Old 04-09-2013, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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here is a pic of it..going tomorrow morning to pick it up..has a bunch of back fees in "good ol Commiefornia"..BUT we will see what he will take for it...thanks guys for ALL the great info and advice! I will keep ya updated! sorry..pics aren't great..more coming if i get it!
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post #6 of 45 Old 04-09-2013, 06:38 PM
Spaceball
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JUNK726 View Post
here is a pic of it..going tomorrow morning to pick it up..has a bunch of back fees in "good ol Commiefornia"..BUT we will see what he will take for it...thanks guys for ALL the great info and advice! I will keep ya updated! sorry..pics aren't great..more coming if i get it!
Cool camper shell too! Buy it!
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post #7 of 45 Old 04-10-2013, 03:12 AM
RockRollin
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Thing is the primary mechanical parts for these tanks are not very expensive. It will require a lot of time working out the kinks. I think for most folks, they acquire their FSJ's because they want a project with unmatched COOL factor. The knowledge base is out there, readily available to do or mod anything on that truck. If ya don't mind tinkering, buy it, change all fluids that are not leaking profusely, and fix the rest. Then make a priority list of what needs, and what you want

"I like fun" Edd
Clawed: 90GW, TFI, Streetfire, 3"lift all spring, 31"BFG ATs, working RKE, Edel2131, Holly 1850, mild cam,
05 Renegade OME 927, 947, top plate, JBA 4.5s
"Just Jeepin it real"
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post #8 of 45 Old 04-10-2013, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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sweet! thanks guys! great advice! anyone have a good place to get aftermarket parts for em? i know for my cj7 build i was able to find a bunch of little parts on places like quadratec and 4wd.com...but wondering if i may be hitting the salvage yards more often for the ol J10..we have a great jeep yard out here..(they just price parts like gold) tho i understand why..stuffs hard to find.."pay to play" as they say! im gonna need interior parts like door latches and crank handles and dash parts, headliner, etc...i am patient, and LOVE tinkering on old jeeps..so i am excited to hopefully score this thing today! i will letya guys know asap! thanks again! I have been reading a TON of great info and help on this forum...awesome tool to have! List is being made even BEFORE i have it! uh oh...here we go!
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post #9 of 45 Old 04-10-2013, 01:19 PM
lucdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JUNK726
sweet! thanks guys! great advice! anyone have a good place to get aftermarket parts for em? i know for my cj7 build i was able to find a bunch of little parts on places like quadratec and 4wd.com...but wondering if i may be hitting the salvage yards more often for the ol J10..we have a great jeep yard out here..(they just price parts like gold) tho i understand why..stuffs hard to find.."pay to play" as they say! im gonna need interior parts like door latches and crank handles and dash parts, headliner, etc...i am patient, and LOVE tinkering on old jeeps..so i am excited to hopefully score this thing today! i will letya guys know asap! thanks again! I have been reading a TON of great info and help on this forum...awesome tool to have! List is being made even BEFORE i have it! uh oh...here we go!
I may be able to help you out on some parts. I bought this 1.5 months ago.

image-3536024309.jpg

And this one last night.

image-2356521440.jpg

The '73 in primer doesn't have a title, it's a J4000.

The '79 J20 doesn't have a engine or tranny.

I also have a '84 Grand Waggy that a tree fell on.

I'm using the best of the Waggy and '73. To fix the J20. Bound to be some parts left.

Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #10 of 45 Old 04-10-2013, 01:37 PM
revelc
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You can find tons of parts at www.bulltear.com

www.bjsoffroad.com and www.summit.com

Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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post #11 of 45 Old 04-10-2013, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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well..update as of this afternoon...cranks over no problem..fires on starting fluid..(i almost set her on fire when carb gasket took flame!) ugh...not good. Owner claims she's always been "cold blooded"..and been sitting for 3 years...i am pretty mechanical, so i am not afraid to buy it even tho she won't start! What do u guys think? roll the dice and grab it anyways! They are pretty "firm" at $900...BUT the fees are gonna be since 2008 in california...(not too familiar with DMV fees/back fees) COULD be shocking as to dmv fee total im sure! Tho i DO own land in Wisconsin..sooooo could go that route..sure would look good with WI plates im thinkin anyways!;0 well..we will see what the guy says tonight...thanks again guys!
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post #12 of 45 Old 04-10-2013, 05:04 PM
lucdog
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The primer colored jeep I posted earlier sat in storage for at least 14 years in the same spot before I bought it. Once home I turned the engine by hand to insure it was free.Checked the oil (full) antifreeze ( added 2 gallons)I put a battery in and hot wired it ( didnt come with a key ) and clipped a remote start to the solenoid. I hit the button and it turned it over. I then dumped about 1.5 oz. of fuel down the carb and it fired up, more gas in the carb and it fired again. Thinking it would run I connected a hose to the fuel pump Inlet and put the other end in a 5 gallon can of gas, squirted some gas in the carb ( twice) it started and wanted to idle. It died, I set the idle screw up (1000 rpm) hit the remote start and it fired and ran. I let it run for 20 minutes, oil pressure ( mechanical gauge) was 25 when hot, 50 cold. The engine did not smoke or over heat.
This '73 has a Delco points distributor, and standard coil, the ammeter showed charging. The odometer shows 86,xxx miles, the tag was last renewed in '98 and has a inspection sticker from '96.



image-1499160601.jpg

I would have pre-lubed the engine, but didnt because a friend had just took apart a 350 Chevy that had sat for 10 years and I saw the amount of oil still in the crankshaft bearings.

If yours attempted to run with starting fluid I would switch to gasoline. A helper would be nice to turn the key while you work the carb linkage.

I would also use the gas can method in stead of the fuel tank, who knows what is in the tank. Mine had completely rusted fuel line. And the tank had a pretty good leak. The PO had tried to use the plastic vent line for a fuel line. This didnt work to good.

Don't keep your head over top of the carb, I had one backfire and a little fuel burn in the carb.

Sorry, can't help with a price in CA, or the back fees. I paid $275 for mine with no title and a missing drivers side axle shaft,

$900 doesn't sound bad, but then there's the fees. To me, if it won't start and run its basically worth scrap price of $400. You have to be the judge on this.

Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #13 of 45 Old 04-10-2013, 05:37 PM
timgr
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In California, a '74 has the advantage of not requiring smog inspection. California has a site that will calculate the registration fees for you. https://www.dmv.ca.gov/FeeCalculator...VehicleForm.do I believe you will have to pay all the back registration fees, if the vehicle was not registered as non-operational.

Even with the fees, it will likely be worth it - due to the smog exempt status.

1) '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps. 2) '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, KOs, 7600 GVWR 3) '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top 4) '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
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post #14 of 45 Old 04-10-2013, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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wow! thanks a million guys! awesome advice! and i will prolly hit u up on sum parts i will need assuming i get this j10! already checked that fee calculator on CA dmv website..it was useless..his wife told me they cant charge me over 3 years fees(?)..BUT we shall see! I am heading to WI soon, so my brother already went to dmv there..cost us a whopping $75 to register it back home!...NOT a fan of giving money to this state of Commiefornia, especially after my year long battle with my 4.0 swap into my cj7 last summer! being pre smog out here is huge...Well...i will try grabbing it for the lowest i can...go from there...i am excited to get it home and start tearing into it! It has an Edelbrock carb on it, also noticed an old rotor and cap n wires on floor of cab..and brand new ones under hood installed..hmm..i will bet someone "tried" sum upgrades..i did read about the Edelbrock "performer" intake being a nice addition...it is on my list
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post #15 of 45 Old 04-10-2013, 06:09 PM
lucdog
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I would add one thing to the above post. When changing oil I would use a hi zinc (ZDDP) additive oil. Something like valvoline 20w-50 racing oil, or a oil from Brad Penn, there may be others I'm not aware of.

http://www.penngrade1.com/.

OP are you the guy who was throwing a air conditioning code , and didnt have AC in the Jeep.
Bill

Edit, it's my understanding, told to me by the manager of the local speed shop, that the Penn oil is either the same or close to what Kendal GT1 oil was.

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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