Originally Posted by gsxtasee
I'm new to modding jeeps but LOVE modding/racing stuff and running stuff over so I'm learning as I go about jeeps and V8 stuff in general as I am a EFI/turbo kind of guy.
Ive got this '63 gladiator I scored and am LOVING it! I found a set of F&R axles from a 78 J20 with Front disc brakes and obviously, matching gear ratios which I assume should work fine with whatever ratio my trans & tcase are since they would be going into the same ratio diff's..
the J200 has a I6 in it already that was swapped from around a 77 or so CJ I'm told and it has D44 front & rear axles with the front being closed knuckles. I'm looking into the F&R axle swap for the disc brakes, better suspension options, and less hassle in the closed-knuckle arena as far as I am understanding so far.
I also have a line on the 360V8 I posted in a different thread and want to rebuild it since I've never done a full rebuild before but have always wanted to but my other engines all cost WAAAY too much for me to try my hand as a novice builder.. I'm planning to do moderate build on it, raise compression just a hair and then likely add some turbo's later into the mix just cuz I turbo everything
I would love input on these ideas as well as recommendations as to how/what trans & Tcase to mate with this engine and my Gladiator body. I'll certainly lift the truck just a bit but I'm not into having a rope-ladder needed for ingress/egress from my truck LOL.
Thks for the space guys. I hope to get to meet some of you at local-ish/SE regional events.
Let's start with the basics.
Get a TT Fabworks SOA SF kit. You'll need a crossover steering system as well. In the long run this is THE BEST way to go. I wish I had done it from the get go.
You'll net around 6" lift. Flex like the best of them. And give your truck the same ride quality you have.
Drivetrain. You need to give more info. What will you be using it for. What tire and gear combo. Towing, mudding, crawling, just daily driving.
Also. Build two 360's. One to get you by. One to put a turbo on. You'll be building two completely different set ups if you want to put a turbo on. Theses aren't your typical B or K series engines.
For turbo you'll at the very least need a turbo cam and forged pistons with a compression ratio around 7:1 $600. Although it would be wiser to go ahead and get forged K1 rods too $1,100 for pistons and rods. Then they would need to be balanced. ARP rod bolts and head studs are recommended I'm guessing at least $250. You will also need to upgrade your oiling system to keep up with the demands of higher RPM and the turbo itself. I just ordered the Bulltear cover with HRC gears, midplate, and remote oil filter set up $450. The dry sump plate is a little more if I'm not mistaken$?. You would also need the Milidon dry sump pump which runs around $500. Then you'll need to retard things under boost so it doesn't blow. So an ignition box of your flavor $200-$400. Then you'd need a blow through carb set up $450. Custom manifolds..... You see where I'm going here? You can't simply bolt one onto one of these old engines.
For a strong DD build to last you until you finish the turbo monster.
Tear it down and clean it up.
Replace seals and bearing.
Add a Comp 260H Small Kit
Put back together.
Add oil pump midplate (easier while cover isn't on engine).
Find an HEI, TFI, or ignition upgrade of your flavor. Use your old dizzy and cam gears or buy a matched set (I can't communicate how important that is)
Replace your heavy intake with a Performer or Performer RPM.
Choose a 4-BBL carb you think will suit your needs.
Open up the exhaust with Doug Thornleys or headers of your choosing.
And that should be a fun, healthy engine that will get you by for many years.
If you want to go a step further;
Get 9.5:1 or 9:1 cast pistons in there and balanced. You'll have a good bit of torque.
You open up the variety of cams you can use with increased compression.
At this point if recommend a Lunati 262/268
Also you can gasket match the heads and have them machined for studs and o-ring seals so you can add a higher lift cam and roller rockers down the road. (I wish I had done that from the get go)
Hope this helps.