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Unread 04-02-2013, 01:08 PM   #1
rabbott1
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Oil blow-by?

Need to get my amc 360 up and running, not sure what needs to be done. I have oil blowing out of one of my exhaust ports. Is this the piston rings? Could it be just the valves? Any insight you guys can give would be great. New to this rebuild thing and don't want to get taken to the cleaners by some mechanic that don't care about my baby. Thanks again!

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Unread 04-02-2013, 07:54 PM   #2
super98lsc
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define exhaust port? Meaning you pulled the manifolds and ran it and oil is spewing out one cylinder?
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Unread 04-03-2013, 10:15 AM   #3
jeepdj5
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Exhaust valve seals is my bet

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Unread 04-03-2013, 11:39 AM   #4
rabbott1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super98lsc View Post
define exhaust port? Meaning you pulled the manifolds and ran it and oil is spewing out one cylinder?
Yeah I pulled the header off one side and have oil blowing out #2 cylinder.
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Unread 04-03-2013, 11:45 AM   #5
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbott1

Yeah I pulled the header off one side and have oil blowing out #2 cylinder.
Pull the head dude. Or put some compressed air at around 80-90 PSI with a fitting in the spark plug hole. If it blows from valve with the valve cover off you can replace the seal without pulling the head by keeping pressure on it. If it blows oil and air from the fill tube it's blow by.
Cheers.
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Unread 04-03-2013, 12:25 PM   #6
super98lsc
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What he said ;-) . Does that cylinder have compression? Sounds like rings,piston,bore are bad off. Was motor fine then started doing this all of a sudden or was it sitting a long time and just now fired up after years? Ive seen some worn guides and bad valve seals but none.that literally caused oil to puke out the port..... Anytime I have seen that its been piston damage.
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===================================
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01 WJ 4x2 4.7v8 Limited (needs valve job)
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Unread 04-03-2013, 02:19 PM   #7
muddy93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revelc View Post
Pull the head dude. Or put some compressed air at around 80-90 PSI with a fitting in the spark plug hole. If it blows from valve with the valve cover off you can replace the seal without pulling the head by keeping pressure on it. If it blows oil and air from the fill tube it's blow by.
Cheers.

To go along with what revelc said......

when doing this compressed air test, make sure the cylinder being tested is at TDC of the compression stroke (you want both valves to be closed).
Then, you can determine what is leaking simply by using your ears.
If you can hear air coming out of the carb, it's a bad/leaking intake valve.
If you can hear air coming out of the exhaust (or side of head, sinse you removed the header), it's a bad/leaking exhaust valve.
If you can hear air coming out of the oil fill tube, it's worn rings/scratched cylinder bore.

If you do not hear any air leaking out, chances are good that it's the valve guides/seals, and as mentioned, those can be changed by just removing the valve cover.
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Unread 04-03-2013, 06:28 PM   #8
RockRollin
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How is one to go about changing guides with just removing the valve cover?
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Unread 04-03-2013, 10:04 PM   #9
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRollin
How is one to go about changing guides with just removing the valve cover?
On some engines you can remove the rockers for that cylinder, pressurize the cylinder with air, take the valve locks off and remove spring, then r&r the seal. Much much easier said than done. But can be more time efficient than removing the whole thing.
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Unread 04-04-2013, 03:21 AM   #10
RockRollin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revelc View Post
On some engines you can remove the rockers for that cylinder, pressurize the cylinder with air, take the valve locks off and remove spring, then r&r the seal. Much much easier said than done. But can be more time efficient than removing the whole thing.
I have done seals, springs with head on, but guides. How would you work the guides with the valve in.
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Unread 04-04-2013, 03:35 AM   #11
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRollin

I have done seals, springs with head on, but guides. How would you work the guides with the valve in.
I was just talking about a seal, no clue on guides. I don't know it all.
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Unread 04-04-2013, 04:08 AM   #12
RockRollin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revelc View Post
I was just talking about a seal, no clue on guides. I don't know it all.
I was hoping for a short-cut. I have a weak guide, and I've been draggin my feet on replacing the heads
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Unread 04-04-2013, 05:34 AM   #13
rabbott1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super98lsc View Post
What he said ;-) . Does that cylinder have compression? Sounds like rings,piston,bore are bad off. Was motor fine then started doing this all of a sudden or was it sitting a long time and just now fired up after years? Ive seen some worn guides and bad valve seals but none.that literally caused oil to puke out the port..... Anytime I have seen that its been piston damage.
Going to do compression tests this weekend. I had bought this motor used to replace the blown motor that was originally in the truck. Guy told me there were only 68'000 miles on the motor. Hard telling how long it sat before I bought it. Put it in the truck, and after driving it a couple times it started smoking out of one tailpipe. Going to try replacing the valve seals this weekend, if that doesn't work guess I'll pull the heads and check rings. Fingers crossed, and any little Jeep prayer you could throw my way wouldn't hurt!
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Unread 04-04-2013, 08:33 AM   #14
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRollin

I was hoping for a short-cut. I have a weak guide, and I've been draggin my feet on replacing the heads
I'm sorry man. I am still learning everyday. But replacing a guide with the head on.... I don't know if its possible. It would certainly be worth googling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbott1

Going to do compression tests this weekend. I had bought this motor used to replace the blown motor that was originally in the truck. Guy told me there were only 68'000 miles on the motor. Hard telling how long it sat before I bought it. Put it in the truck, and after driving it a couple times it started smoking out of one tailpipe. Going to try replacing the valve seals this weekend, if that doesn't work guess I'll pull the heads and check rings. Fingers crossed, and any little Jeep prayer you could throw my way wouldn't hurt!
This may sound funny, but when engines set a long time they seem like prime real-estate for wasps and dirt dobbers. They will find a way into a cylinder or a head and set up shop. This could have been the case with yours if you never rotated the engine and inspected each cylinder before installing it. That could be why it ran a little while before it began to smoke and puke oil. Sand and debris were probably hanging out and after a while shot the rings and scored the wall. My Hot Rod guru relative has tons of engine laying around and no matter the miles he tears each one down before dropping it in for that reason. He's lost too many engines that way. I wouldn't run it much and I'd definitely change the oil to check for dirt, debris, and metal when you do. Clean your oil catch pan out really well and throw a magnet in it so you can see if you find any sparkles.

Just my wild guess of the day. Best of luck man.
And yes. I'll pray for the Jeep and for you to have grace for it if laying hands on it doesn't make a Lazarus.
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Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 04-04-2013, 09:19 AM   #15
jeepdj5
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Just get both heads redone

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