Offenhauser Dual Port 360 Intake Torque Settings - JeepForum.com
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Unread 05-17-2013, 06:22 PM   #1
redhawk4
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Offenhauser Dual Port 360 Intake Torque Settings

Hi, I'm just putting together an AMC 360 that I got from a 78 J20 to go in my 82 CJ5. As part of the build I got a great deal on a new Offenhauser Dualport 360 intake which I'm going to use with a new Holley Truck Avenger Carb that I got an even better deal on. I read somewhere the torque settings for an Edelbrok aluminum intake were different than for the stock one. I have searched but can find nothing for the Offenhauser any where. There doesn't even seem to be a manufacturer to contact - anyone have any idea or information? Thanks

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Unread 05-17-2013, 06:50 PM   #2
revelc
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I would assume an aluminum intake is an aluminum intake. Just tighten the bolts in an X pattern from the inside out incrementally not all at once.
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Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 05-17-2013, 10:02 PM   #3
CSP
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Exactly. If you can find a different torque value for an Edelbrock (have mine tightened to stock specs without any problems) use it.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 11:04 PM   #4
redhawk4
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Aha, I found this 25 ft lbs vs about 40-45lbs for the stock intake depending where you get the figures from.


http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../3000/3731.pdf
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Unread 05-18-2013, 12:01 AM   #5
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redhawk4
Aha, I found this 25 ft lbs vs about 40-45lbs for the stock intake depending where you get the figures from.

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../3000/3731.pdf
When I did it I threaded all the bolts in. Then tighten to 10ft/lbs then 20ft/lbs then the final spec. These intakes can be a pain to seal so every precaution you can take is time saved doing it twice (or at least that's been the case for me).
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 05-19-2013, 10:18 AM   #6
redhawk4
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Thanks guys for all the information. Reveic, I will be getting the intake on in the next few days, where were the problems getting it sealed? at the ends or to the actual ports?
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Unread 05-19-2013, 10:54 AM   #7
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redhawk4
Thanks guys for all the information. Reveic, I will be getting the intake on in the next few days, where were the problems getting it sealed? at the ends or to the actual ports?
I have had luck with either black or copper RTV around the coolant ports.

And go ahead and put the intake on without the valley pan so you can get an idea of how thick your bead of RTV needs to be on the front and rear of the intake on the block.

Gently pre-bend the valley pan before you install it too so it seats properly. The indentations at the front and rear will make it pop into place.

The biggest chunk of advice I have. Take your time. Check things over as you go. And relax.

Good luck
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 05-20-2013, 09:46 AM   #8
redhawk4
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Thanks, do you recommend using the rubber end seals with an Offenhauser, I believe they advise leaving those off on the Edelbrok and just using RTV. I guess the best thing is to put it all in place dry and see what sort of gaps you have?
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Unread 05-20-2013, 09:48 AM   #9
CSP
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It's generally best with any non-late model V8 to leave the end pieces off and use RTV. Those end pieces are verly likely to slide out, if not right away they will eventually.
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Unread 05-20-2013, 09:57 AM   #10
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csp
it's generally best with any non-late model v8 to leave the end pieces off and use rtv. Those end pieces are verly likely to slide out, if not right away they will eventually.
x2
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 05-20-2013, 10:26 AM   #11
redhawk4
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Thanks for the heads up on that issue. So even with the locating pins on the seal and the fact it has the channel to fit over the block they still work their way out?
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Unread 05-20-2013, 11:04 AM   #12
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redhawk4
Thanks for the heads up on that issue. So even with the locating pins on the seal and the fact it has the channel to fit over the block they still work their way out?
Yes sir. Nobody that I know who works on these older engines professionally or as a hobby uses them for that reason.
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 05-20-2013, 12:57 PM   #13
redhawk4
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I appreciate the advise on that, because looking at them you'd not expect that to be an issue - that's why this forum is so great
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