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post #1 of 26 Old 06-21-2016, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
jeep_boy02
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Next Project, First FSJ

Picked up a 1980 Cherokee Chief, not bad shape, needs a motor and floorpans. supposedly was an Arizona State Parks vehicle before making its way to SW Missouri



I have a 360 to drop in it already so that's set, a few dents to pop out and floorpans.

I've looked at BJs and C2C floor pans, any suggestions on which way to go from y'alls experience?

BJs are twice as high but look primered and predrilled.

Its got some home fabbed shackle reversal and drop mount up front that I will undo to drop it back down. For now its just a motor, floorpans , and some interior to get it on the road for a buddy whos got no wheels


80 CJ7-304/T176/D300 HEI hdrs-WT D30/D44 4.56s, lockright/spool-SOA YJs W/RE AAL-35 MTRs beadlocks
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post #2 of 26 Old 06-26-2016, 08:17 PM
Candymancan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep_boy02 View Post
Picked up a 1980 Cherokee Chief, not bad shape, needs a motor and floorpans. supposedly was an Arizona State Parks vehicle before making its way to SW Missouri



I have a 360 to drop in it already so that's set, a few dents to pop out and floorpans.

I've looked at BJs and C2C floor pans, any suggestions on which way to go from y'alls experience?

BJs are twice as high but look primered and predrilled.

Its got some home fabbed shackle reversal and drop mount up front that I will undo to drop it back down. For now its just a motor, floorpans , and some interior to get it on the road for a buddy whos got no wheels

Before you do the floors i suggest you fix the water leaks on the doors, roof racks and probably the quarter panel windows. My 90 leaked from all those spots.. leaked ALOT.. and the floorboards were rusted out because of it.

I didnt replace the entire floor though so i cant comment on which full pan to buy.. I just cut out the bad sections and welded new 16GA steel in and cleaned up the good sections
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post #3 of 26 Old 06-27-2016, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
jeep_boy02
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I'll definately check those out. I'll for sure need full pans, PO already tried to piece in thin sheets and it's not a great job.

I have a gladiator style grill off a 69 J-3000 that I will use for the grill, Like that look LOTS better.

Gasket kit is coming this week for the 360 so hopefully I can get the motor in next weekend.

I just got the suspension and axles in my CJ and less than 6 hrs later this was in the shop... I didn't wait long to start another project!

80 CJ7-304/T176/D300 HEI hdrs-WT D30/D44 4.56s, lockright/spool-SOA YJs W/RE AAL-35 MTRs beadlocks
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post #4 of 26 Old 06-27-2016, 05:44 PM
j10jim
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My bro in law got the C2C pans. Good quality. He got them on Amazon (cheapest price) shipped direct from C2C
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post #5 of 26 Old 07-25-2016, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
jeep_boy02
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OK, little update. Got the 360 tore down to short block, all new gaskets and seals. Was all kinds of baked crud on valley oand and underside of intake. Cylinder walls looked in good shape besides the ridge at the very top 3/8"... a couple cylinders had excessive carbon on the piston tops, I cleaned all pistons and mating surfaces. Valves looked good and not much carbon on them.

What would cause all this buildup inside between valley pan and intake?





The EGR seems to be freely moving, IDK if it had a PCV before but I got one to go on now.

Any one have a vacuum line diagram link? That'll be my next hurdle. I would just copy my CJ 304 lines but this has that dang vacuum T-case so that complicates things more.

Haven't decided on floorpans yet but I need to get them coming so I can have this at least drivable. May be going to look at a '63 gladiator 1 owner with original title, missing engine and trans, and needing floorpans also... I'm bad about finding more projects before I get anything done on ones I already have!!! OOPS

80 CJ7-304/T176/D300 HEI hdrs-WT D30/D44 4.56s, lockright/spool-SOA YJs W/RE AAL-35 MTRs beadlocks
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post #6 of 26 Old 07-26-2016, 01:05 AM
Candymancan
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Crud like that happens from lack of oil changes, and also happens when the engine gets really really hot and you shut it off imediatly without sitting for a bit for it to cooldown. The oil litterally dries up and burns.

This is why if you have a car in the heat with the a/c running and its getting past 210f, its a good idea to turn the a/c off let the car idle to cool down and then shut it off after it drops in temps, not just park once you get to your destination and turn it off.. The engine will have hot spots and can bake oil. Have you noticed when you turn a hot car off and then come back like 5 min later and turn it back on the engine temp is much higher for a second then goes down when coolant flows ? Thats the hot spots im talking about.

When oil burns it turns into sludge basically so if you live in a hotter area and the engine always get hot its best to do oil changes more often. You also see this where oil doesnt flow very well. Oil breaks down the hotter it gets
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post #7 of 26 Old 07-26-2016, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
jeep_boy02
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Ok , so the oil was probably very rarely changed then. It ran when I went to look at it and the guy flogged it pretty good, no sputter or hesitation, no smoke, good throttle response, but when I picked the motor up it was oil soaked so I figured it needed gaskets somewhere.

What say ya'll about the stance? Its got 32s on it and a 2" lift in front and stock in rear. I was going to drop front back t stock but now I'm thinking to throw a 2" block on the rear to bring it up to match the front... Would the 32s rub or look "stuffed" at stock height?

80 CJ7-304/T176/D300 HEI hdrs-WT D30/D44 4.56s, lockright/spool-SOA YJs W/RE AAL-35 MTRs beadlocks
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post #8 of 26 Old 07-26-2016, 10:04 AM
Marn
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Howdy and welcome! Looks like you got yourself a good start there.

As mentioned, lack of maintenance can cause a ton of sludge buildup, but depending on the age and the condition of the engine its probably not really a big deal.

-Andrew

Illegitimi Non Carborundum


The Beast Build Thread: Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread ----- The Camper Build Thread: Marns 1980 Jayco JayFinch6 Build Thread

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post #9 of 26 Old 07-27-2016, 09:47 PM
Candymancan
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I personally think the way the lift is looks great, if you raise the rear it would look odd..

Also blocks on leaf springs are dangerous, so is lifting the body on the frame, i just wouldnt do it. If your rear looks too low to you, the leaf springs are old and sagging most likely, in which case blocks would only hurt the springs more. Just my 2 cents but im sure someone else can chime in.

Can you take more pics of the Jeep without it on the trailer ? Also how do the crank look and the oil pan ? And the oil pump in the front of the block assuming this is an AMC360. is it cruddy in there as well ?
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post #10 of 26 Old 07-29-2016, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
jeep_boy02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Candymancan View Post
I personally think the way the lift is looks great, if you raise the rear it would look odd..

Also blocks on leaf springs are dangerous, so is lifting the body on the frame, i just wouldnt do it. If your rear looks too low to you, the leaf springs are old and sagging most likely, in which case blocks would only hurt the springs more. Just my 2 cents but im sure someone else can chime in.

Can you take more pics of the Jeep without it on the trailer ? Also how do the crank look and the oil pan ? And the oil pump in the front of the block assuming this is an AMC360. is it cruddy in there as well ?
Yeah, I hear ya on the blocks, I don't like them either and am leaning to the side of having a small lift instead of stock height. I'll wait to see how it looks once I get the weight of the motor on it, which I should be dropping in this weekend.

I will take some other pics in and around it to get them up.

The internals all looked just fine, no pittings, no gallings, no excessively worn areas or any of the like so I'm pretty confident that its a sound motor.

80 CJ7-304/T176/D300 HEI hdrs-WT D30/D44 4.56s, lockright/spool-SOA YJs W/RE AAL-35 MTRs beadlocks
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post #11 of 26 Old 07-30-2016, 01:27 AM
Candymancan
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then it probably is.. Oh so the pic is with the engine out ? Or with it in ?
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post #12 of 26 Old 07-30-2016, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
jeep_boy02
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Yes, there is not engine in it currently. heres a few other shots I grabbed,

Dash needs gone through


Rear seat is in good condition but fronts need a refurb


floorboards are high on the list


this homebrew crossmember I think was added by the PO who had a 401 in it... IDk about keeping it in, will have to see if oil pan and filter clear it.


Here is the front dropped hanger


Here is the shackle moved to the rear hanger to equal the lift and a shackle reversal


The 360 back together with all new gaskets and seals


And here is what happens when you get lazy and don't want to clean the back out of your SJ to properly undo the torsion springs on the tailgate and try to take it off with it laying down instead of as far up as possible...



10 stitches and a tetanus shot added to the list of injuries caused by a Jeep!

80 CJ7-304/T176/D300 HEI hdrs-WT D30/D44 4.56s, lockright/spool-SOA YJs W/RE AAL-35 MTRs beadlocks
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post #13 of 26 Old 08-01-2016, 01:33 AM
Candymancan
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10 stiches man that must have been deep then lol
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post #14 of 26 Old 08-03-2016, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
jeep_boy02
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Yeah, it was pretty much to the bone and could see tendons, luckily it didn't get any tendons.

Didn't get hardly anything done this past weekend so maybe I can this week. It's hard to find time for this thing when I just put new axles under my CJ and want to spend time breaking that in and adding more upgrades to the list... I need to learn how to share time between my current 4 projects!

80 CJ7-304/T176/D300 HEI hdrs-WT D30/D44 4.56s, lockright/spool-SOA YJs W/RE AAL-35 MTRs beadlocks
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post #15 of 26 Old 08-04-2016, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
jeep_boy02
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Kind of assuming here but went to drop motor in yesterday and I can get it in the forward holes on the frame side motor mount but it looks like it should go in the rear holes, is that correct?

Also did the chiefs come with bigger brakes and need a 16+ inch rim? I noticed that the 15s I got off an 83 limited waggoneer are so close to the caliper that the stuck on wheel weights have made contact.
Can I get by with using the outer lip mounted weights or should I start looking for a set of 16s?

80 CJ7-304/T176/D300 HEI hdrs-WT D30/D44 4.56s, lockright/spool-SOA YJs W/RE AAL-35 MTRs beadlocks
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