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Unread 03-27-2013, 06:56 AM   #1
RI_RIDER
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2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: narragansett, rhode island
Posts: 38
New to J10's, about to purchase one...

I am looking to buy one and I have some questions.

Which are the most reliable years?

Did AMC own Jeep throughout the entire manufacturing process of the J10?

What are the production years?

I am looking at an 84 with 130k, and a 74 with 60k. Which might be better, more reliable? At this time, I am unsure what motors are in them. They are both V8's however.

I have heard the earlier years are the most solid. Does that mean early J10 or the gladiator years?

Thanks
Matt

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Unread 03-27-2013, 08:11 AM   #2
RI_RIDER
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2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: narragansett, rhode island
Posts: 38
The 84 has a 360 motor.
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Unread 03-27-2013, 09:04 AM   #3
revelc
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1985 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
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Location: Tyler, Texas
Posts: 663
Find out what the 70's model engine is. If you look at the block under the motor mounts, and it has a 401 it would be a great power plant to start with. Other factors like rust, appearance, price, and if they even run should also factor in. But if they are evenly matched and the older model has the coveted 401 you will not be disappointed.
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 03-27-2013, 09:30 AM   #4
timgr
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1975 CJ6 
 
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Location: Medford, MA
Posts: 463
Avoid '65 and earlier unless you are a collector.

Too much to cover in one post. The trucks were made from 1963 through 1988. The appearance stayed mostly the same, but the mechanical parts evolved with the times.

What do you want the truck for?
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1) '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps. 2) '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, KOs, 7600 GVWR 3) '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top 4) '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
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Unread 03-27-2013, 11:07 AM   #5
RI_RIDER
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2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: narragansett, rhode island
Posts: 38
Well I can get a 74 with a 360 with 60k on it for $2750. an 84 with a 360 with 136k on it for hopefully $5k. and a 78 with a 360 for 4800. the 84 seems to be in the best shape, interior was redone and all electrical seems to work. the 84 is alittle rougher but has great rims and wheels. the 84 also needs new rubber. so there is a grand there. the 84 and 78 seem to run stronger then the 74. The 84 and 78 are also long bed. the 74 is not. I like that because I want to use it as a work truck.

Thanks for the above response.
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Unread 03-27-2013, 05:37 PM   #6
revelc
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1985 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Tyler, Texas
Posts: 663
Quote:
Originally Posted by RI_RIDER
Well I can get a 74 with a 360 with 60k on it for $2750. an 84 with a 360 with 136k on it for hopefully $5k. and a 78 with a 360 for 4800. the 84 seems to be in the best shape, interior was redone and all electrical seems to work. the 84 is alittle rougher but has great rims and wheels. the 84 also needs new rubber. so there is a grand there. the 84 and 78 seem to run stronger then the 74. The 84 and 78 are also long bed. the 74 is not. I like that because I want to use it as a work truck.

Thanks for the above response.
The one with over 100k could probably use a freshening up motor wise. Cam swap and timing chain. While your in there (if you buy it) inspect for carbon build up. Mine literally had a pile the size of a roll of duct tape in it built up all around the lifters and pushrods. I had to clear it out and scrap it off when I swapped intakes. My motor passed away a few thousand miles later. Careless PO's that don't change the oil can shaft you in the long run.
__________________
Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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