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Unread 02-05-2013, 08:57 AM   #1
PITA88FSJ
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1988 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Prescott Valley, ARIZONA
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Need help! 88fsj gw

I am in the process of going through my 88FSJ I just picked up.

Issue one: Fuel Pump- My FSJ has both an electric and mechanical fuel pump. I pulled the fuse on the electrical and she still ran fine. She does have a Carter AFB 4BBL carb. The mechanical pump puts out 7psi and 32 gph which I assume is enough to feed the carb. Why would someone add an electrical pump to the system in addition to the mechanical works?

I am removing the electric pump today and installing a new OEM mechanical pump, new fuel filter and all new fuel lines.

Issue two: Electronic- I have an issue with what may be the turn signal switch on the column, or a short. When I activate the turn signals, either way, my volt gauge and oil pressure gauge both bounce with the signal. Also the fuel gauge and temp gauge drop (like they stop working). This happens 90% of the time. When it doesn't happen I noticed a slight constant draw on the volts (14.12 vs 13.08) when the signal switch isn"t activated, also my oil pressure gauge reads higher (more normal). I have scoured under the hood for a bad ground, replaced the flasher relays, replaced the two relays mounted to the front passenger side grill.
NOTE: she didn't do this before I bought her. I took her to the car wash to rinse off the motor (only used low pressure) and this started afterwards.

ISSUE Three: On the passenger side front wheel well is what looks like a voltage regulator. I tried to buy a replacement at NAPA and they do not show a part that looks anything like it part. The alternator connects directly to this part and it feeds many more parts. Does anyone know what this part is? (PICTURE)

ISSUE Four: The wire to the oil pressure unit on the block got a bit melted. I want to replace the wire. Can I splice in a new wire? How will this affect my gauge reading? Will it create too much resistance to work properly?

Any help or ideas are greatly appreciated.

2013-02-05_07-43-11_485.jpg  
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Unread 02-05-2013, 12:03 PM   #2
RockRollin
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#4 yea splice it with same size wire, good splice is important.
#3 starter solenoid, inspect fusable links while at the replacement.
#2 I had this issue with my YJ, I cleaned the crud and connections on the instrument panel, and it went away. Nothing else was effected when dirty, dome light, radio display
#1 could have been added due to vapor lock, kind of a hack job though.
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Unread 02-06-2013, 09:28 AM   #3
PITA88FSJ
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Thanks RockRollin I appreciate the guidance! I took the gauge cluster apart and cleaned the terminals, after I install the new fuel pump today I'll see if it worked.
The old fuel pump was shot, virtually no resistance. I am gonna remove the electronic pump and run just the new mechanical one along with all new
fuel lines, fuel filter etc... Amazing how you find other things when your in there! LOL! Power steering lines were leaking, replaced them, tranny cooler lines
were leaking, replaced those. Gotta change the fan belts as well today. Whoever had the rig before me used tranny fluid in the power steering. Gotta drain
and flush the tranny as well, her juice looks like old motor oil! Next I need to find out why my rig doesn't have an Air Pump.

Thanks again for the help!
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Unread 02-06-2013, 01:47 PM   #4
pleontks
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have a box full of smog stuff to get rid of. Let me know if you're interested.
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Unread 02-06-2013, 05:20 PM   #5
RockRollin
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Is Az an emissions state?
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Clawed: 90GW, TFI, Streetfire, 3"lift all spring, 31"BFG ATs, working RKE, Edel2131, Holly 1850, mild cam,
05 Renegade OME 927, 947, top plate, JBA 4.5s
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Unread 02-06-2013, 06:30 PM   #6
pleontks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRollin View Post
Is Az an emissions state?
some of it. I think Tucson and Pheonix mostly. I'm 30 miles from mexico. They don't bother with that stuff down here.
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Unread 02-06-2013, 08:12 PM   #7
PITA88FSJ
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No smog regs up north here in Prescott Valley. My GW has all the smog stuff removed. UPDATE on the progress. Installed the fuel pump, all new fuel lines, fuel filter
power steering lines, tranny cooling lines, instrument cluster issue is fixed (dirty terminals as RollinRock said, thanks brother!), new fan belts (new issue to deal with now)!
Rancho add-a-leaf in the rear (gained 3"). Tomorrow I install all new shocks (Skyjacker Nitro 9000) and New Steering Stabalizer (also by Skyjacker). GW is running
great now! And 90% of her leaks are fixed.

Here's my new problem: When I loosened the bolts on the Power Steering pump one of the adjustment bolts snapped off! Question: Does anyone know
if this bolt can be replaced or do I have to replace the pump?
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Unread 02-07-2013, 03:44 AM   #8
RockRollin
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Drill it and tap it and new bolt, probably be easiest to remove it. So why the air pump if no smog necessary? I would leave it off and plug the holes in the banjo bolts on the exhaust manifold.
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Clawed: 90GW, TFI, Streetfire, 3"lift all spring, 31"BFG ATs, working RKE, Edel2131, Holly 1850, mild cam,
05 Renegade OME 927, 947, top plate, JBA 4.5s
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Unread 02-07-2013, 07:09 AM   #9
PITA88FSJ
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Thanks RockRollin, I'll pull the PS pump today and repair the bolt. Whoever had her before me removed the air pump and cat and plugged the holes. I wasn't sure what the air pump's purpose was. I also discovered that the A/C, ALT, Fan belts that they put on were the wrong size for the pulleys on my ALT. I installed a 51" and she needs a 49"...taking the belts I picked up yesterday back and getting the right ones. Sadly I am learning that my GW has not been well loved, instaed of fixing things properly they just threw on whatever they could to make her work. Once I get the belts corrected she will be back to how she should be.
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Unread 02-07-2013, 03:59 PM   #10
RockRollin
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You'll hear a lot on air pumps if you go looking. It takes the egr and cat and vto and snipes and satellite dished and coorcered coefficient and acuputty and......... really it pushes fresh air through the exhaust so the volume of pollutants doesn't read so bad. My 90 was hacked by a oil change shop that had never seen a carburetor before. Poor PO , no really he spent gobs of $ trying to make it reliable. They installed a reman carb, and never adjusted it, and the list goes on. Well pet the fenders and scratch it under the mirrors, and play with it, don't forget to play with it, you'll both be happy for years to come.
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Clawed: 90GW, TFI, Streetfire, 3"lift all spring, 31"BFG ATs, working RKE, Edel2131, Holly 1850, mild cam,
05 Renegade OME 927, 947, top plate, JBA 4.5s
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Unread 02-08-2013, 06:06 AM   #11
PITA88FSJ
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Thanks for the help bro! I went and replaced the pump and now have to replace the pulley, I screwed up taking it off and she now has a slight
bend in it. I didn't even know until I re-installed it, was turning the steering wheel hit the stop and the pulley pulled off! I re-installed it, again,
and that's when I noticed the wobble. I was gonna try and keep it on by bolt instead of just relying on the press-on. Any thoughts?

TeamGrandWagoneer has the pulley but they want $100 for it! I found one for a 79 El Camino that has the same post and pulley diameters.
If it fits I will post the info up here for others. Aside from the local U-Pick-A-Part, any ideas on where to get a new one?
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Unread 07-20-2013, 05:04 PM   #12
McLain90
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Location: Boulder, Co
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Two fuel pumps? 88' GW FSJ

Quote:
Originally Posted by PITA88FSJ View Post
I am in the process of going through my 88FSJ I just picked up.

Issue one: Fuel Pump- My FSJ has both an electric and mechanical fuel pump. I pulled the fuse on the electrical and she still ran fine. She does have a Carter AFB 4BBL carb. The mechanical pump puts out 7psi and 32 gph which I assume is enough to feed the carb. Why would someone add an electrical pump to the system in addition to the mechanical works?
I have this same issue, electric and mechanical fuel pump.

However, recently when driving on the highway I get maybe 10 miles before it sputters/ backfires and dies. When this happens I still have electrical power and can turn the engine over multiple times, but it will not start back up right away, and instead starts up 20 mins or so later like nothing happened.

Last summer I replaced ICM, Coil, dist rotor cap, and recently I replaced the starter and fuel filter to see if that might do it. But, with the discovery of two fuel pumps, I am not sure what to do.

Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Unread 07-22-2013, 09:25 AM   #13
super98lsc
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[QUOTE=RockRollin;14926059]You'll hear a lot on air pumps if you go looking. It takes the egr and cat and vto and snipes and satellite dished and coorcered coefficient and acuputty and.........

HAHAHA awesome Rock!

McLain90, check for spark when this is happening. Very possible it could be your DuraSpark box (Ignition Amplifier) on the drivers inner fender well going south. They will heat up and crap out, cool down some then run again.
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Unread 07-23-2013, 12:16 PM   #14
McLain90
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Just got that tested yesterday at O'reilly's their machine said it passed all tests.
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Unread 07-24-2013, 11:09 AM   #15
RockRollin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McLain90 View Post
Just got that tested yesterday at O'reilly's their machine said it passed all tests.
The problem with that is it needs to be tested when the problem presents itself, the duraspark holds no fault codes. If you drove it there, its working.
__________________
"I like fun" Edd
Clawed: 90GW, TFI, Streetfire, 3"lift all spring, 31"BFG ATs, working RKE, Edel2131, Holly 1850, mild cam,
05 Renegade OME 927, 947, top plate, JBA 4.5s

Last edited by RockRollin; 07-24-2013 at 11:10 AM.. Reason: punctuation is our friend
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