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Unread 04-08-2014, 11:48 PM   #1
big_o_tom
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Tazewell, Tn.
Posts: 301
My 1974 jeep j10

Rides so much better without the add a leaves in the back. When I first got my last summer and started driving it, it rode like wagon or probably more like a fork lift. I finally got the ignition lined out and am starting to get all the "other" things fixed. It's got a set of front springs from rough country I think, the steering shock is from rough country and the front springs are definitely aftermarket so I'm just assuming they're rough country also. The rear had a 2" block and a set of add a leaves. I took the add a leaves out this past weekend and man what a difference. The rear springs still need some help though, they are now almost flat. I've got a set of cj springs that I'm thinking of adding some leaves to the rear of the truck. Or maybe take one leaf out of the front and add to the rear. Any suggestions or experiences doing this?
I've searched the web for different axle widths and such and I am a bit confused on what my truck has. I just put a new set of rotors on the front and that went fine, so that tells me that the front axle has to be close to what should be in it. The front axle is 64 1/4" wms to wms. I think its supposed to be around 66-67". The rear is 65 1/2", which is right, I think. I dont think the front matches up to any jeep, wagoneer cherokee or truck.
I would rather have a spring over front, its just my preference. I've got a chevy front dana 44 that I could use, it would have to rebuilt to use though. I dont remember exactly but I think its around 67" wms to wms. If I did use the chevy axle should I use the flat top knuckles that are on the jeep axle or can I keep the chevy knuckles? Id rather save the flat tops for my cj which is my dd and off road ride. I know I dont need 3/4 or 1 ton axles for my truck but it might be easier to find a matching set around here at a good price. I dont know which way to go on this, anyone got some advice?

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Unread Yesterday, 03:51 PM   #2
carnuck
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1984 J-Series Truck 
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,932
I have Chev knuckles on my '84 J10 with a Ford D44 front. Now Reid Racing makes new knuckles with built in high steer mounts.
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Unread Yesterday, 11:44 PM   #3
big_o_tom
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Tazewell, Tn.
Posts: 301
Did you use the chevy knuckles to keep it six lug? I know my post was kind of long winded, sorry about that. I missed out on a heck of a deal on a set on a set of 3/4 ton axles the other day. A fella had them on craigslist, a set from a '77 chevy, dana 44 front and 14 bolt rear for $250 if I pulled from the truck. I had to go to work after talking to him and they were gone the next day. Oh well at least I've got a chevy front 44 in case I need it.
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Unread Today, 10:02 AM   #4
CSP
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Colorado
Posts: 11,208
Chevy and Jeep knuckles are 100% interchangable. The only difference is the Chevy drivers side is machined/tapped/studded already and will accept a high steer arm.

Not sure why you think you'd have to change any of the outers on the Chevy axle to use it. Carnuck probably confused you as his was a Ford axle. To stay six lug and/or use the existing brake parts and/or go with highsteer he would have needed to either use Chevy or Jeep knuckles.

There is a number stamped on the long tube just to the right (facing the cover) of the diff section which is the Bill of Materials. This will tell you what the original application of the axle was. Get the number and Google "Dana BOM chart" to find one of the many charts used to look up the number.

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Unread Today, 06:32 PM   #5
big_o_tom
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Tazewell, Tn.
Posts: 301
Thanks csp for that site. I've probably saw it a dozen times and forgot about it. I checked the numbers on my axle and its 603464 1, which means its the right axle for my truck. I was hoping it was from a cherokee or wagoneer because that would partially explain why it sticks out more on one side than the other. I took the truck to a frame/body shop the other day to see if they could check and see if the frame was straight and they didnt have the equipment. I'll have to take it to knoxville for that. The reason I wondered about the axle not being original and or the frame warped is that the driver side tire is completely inside the flare, the passenger side sticks out about 1 1/4 - 1 1/2". I thought maybe the axle had been swapped and not installed correctly. Got to keep pecking at it.
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