Looking to lift - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 4 Old 10-07-2013, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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1987 FSJ Wagoneer 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: York
Posts: 15
Looking to lift

Hey there,
I've had my grand wagoneer for about 6 months and I've seen to many jeeps having fun in that time. So I'm planning on doing a lift soon, I've decided on the BJ's off-road 6" inch lift with all the accessories . So I was hoping to see what you guys suggest for tire size and what other things you suggest for lifting. I was thinking 33x12.50 to avoid rubbing but if I can go 35's that would be awesome. Any comments would be appreciated also any pics to help out would be appreciated. Thanks.

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post #2 of 4 Old 10-08-2013, 09:35 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 73
I just put the rustys lift on my 84 GW. It was pretty easy bust just hope like hell the drivers side rear forward shackle nut doesn't break lose. That and getting the rear shackle is pretty tough to get back in.

I did the 4" lift with 17" wheels. I Needed to get a wheel with a a smaller backspace. I put 33's on it and they rubbed. So now I have 1" spacers and hoping they don't rub. So that may be u with the 35's. Not sure. Call Ryan at BJ's. He will for sure tell you.
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post #3 of 4 Old 10-09-2013, 02:50 PM
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1982 FSJ Cherokee 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: mesa
Posts: 1,255
35" tires on a wagoneer will require some trimming. You should consider some slider bars (I run killer 32, I think BJSOFFROAD still sells them). With my wagoneer I had a 4" lift and 31" tires and the sliders. I often times would pull up slowly to a step, drive the front up and then let it settle on the sliders and pull myself over. I have lockers too. The TC and transmission is tucked up pretty high in our rigs so the sliders were pretty effective.

Here a pic, I liked them so much I transferred them to my Cherokee but most of what you see was done while they were on the wagoneer:

82 Cherokee WT - SOA/SF/agr box/Borgeson ujoint steering shaft/401/performer/holley TA/HEI/BeCool/727/np208/d44(aussie)/amc20(ARB)/BFG 35X12.5/Corbeau Moab Seats/RCI 6point Harness,Hella Aux lights/tuffy console/killer32 slider bars/custom bumpers and roll bar/Alpine head unit/amps/speakers 2002 Liberty Limited Early edition - Basically stock
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post #4 of 4 Old 10-11-2013, 03:51 PM
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2004 WJ 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 417
Having run the 6" spring on an '88 Waggy here are my thoughts. Those spring run pretty stiff. It will depend on whether or not you wheel it as to if you will like it or not. The more you wheel it, the more you will want to go another direction. Whether or not you go 6" spring lift or SOA front and shackle flip rear, here is some of the stuff you will need to look into;
1. longer rear emergency brake cables from frame to axle. The stock ones can be backed up 1-1.5 inches by relocating the frame side mount rearward, but for some that isn't enough. J-10 rear cables are longer than the waggy ones so that is the option I run.
2. Those front springs will require a longer shackle to prevent the shackle from inverting forward (getting stuck under the front bumper) as the spring compresses ie gets longer. Unfortundately this lifts the front even more and makes your caster angle worse too.
3. The front driveshaft will be operating at or near it's operational angle at the constant velocity joint at the t-case. Some (me too) need to run a clearanced CV known as a high-angle cv. Also, the transmission crossmember will need to be clearanced to allow the front driveshaft to droop far enough down without hitting it. Many have cut and frenched in a piece of steel tubing. Search for some pictures and it will make sense once you see it.
4. Longer brake lines front and rear.
5. Even with a drop pitman arm, the steering angle of the drag link is nearing excessive. Long term you will want to look into cross-over steering to straighten it all out.
6. 35's are really tough to fit on a waggy without serious cutting. Another option would be to run a 33x10.50r15 tire like ones that BFG sells. Can maintain the stock 15x7 wheel with these and they fit up in the fenders easier. If cutting the sheet metal doesn't scare you, 35's can fit all day long.
7. Longer front bumpstops will be needed to prevent over-flexing the springs and to keep the tires off the body. The rear bumpstops were probably never hitting the axle anyway and I have never extended mine.
8. You will more than likely want to install a set of manual locking hubs up front so that the front driveshaft can stop spinning when disconnected. The front driveshaft angle will be pretty bad and it will want to vibrate on the highway.

Personally, having owned FSJs with the Skyjacker 4" all spring lift (still running those springs), a FSJ with the Bj's 6 spring lift, and various versions of SOA, SF and such, here is what I would do. I would either run a Skyjacker 4" full spring lift + a 1" body lift, or go straight to SOA/SF with new stock packs. If height is your primary goal, I would go SOA/SF since most of the things I mention above, need to be done for the 6" kit or the SOA/SF anyway. BJ's site has all the SOA/SF kit stuff too so check 'em out.

'78 Cherokee Chief: 360/TH400/NOS QT, '04 Grand Cherokee: 4.7/545RFE/242HD w/SYE, JK Rubi front axle, 4.56 gears, Protofab rear bumper/tire carrier
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