Things I learned today:
1 I'm def getting power to the display. The fuel gauge needle has a lot more resistance to it compared to the other dials. I've been using an electric hexane cleaning solution and it has loosened it up some. Is there anything else I can use?
2 when the FSU doesn't have a ground it registers full. When I use a ground it'll stop somewhere between half and a quarter tank. These are with the new unit out of the tank just adjusting the float arm.
3 I def needed the bulb set I ordered for the instrument cluster.
I plan on cleaning the ground when the new fuel lines come next Friday and changing the unit. Does anyone know of what could help with the info provided? Thanks.
I've added photos of the back of the display and with it connected when I was adjusting the float arm.
Procedure wise I removed three bulbs from the top and then the round connection with the aid of a flat head screw driver. I used a little liquid wrench to help get the speedometer cable off and the flat connection was easy to get off with the slack from the others being disconnected.
The picture says it. I found my Ishmael. I don't know if it was the dielectric gel, just moving the needle or spraying the gauge with the electric cleaner but the gauge works now. Apparently there wasn't enough voltage until I started the engine.
This may be obvious but if Iam replacing the fuel sending unit from the access panel on the floor do I need to have any empty tank \ drain the fuel? If so what is the best way to do that? And what is the best way to remove the rivots to access the tank?
I believe it was originally rivot on. And if you have screws its been opened before, but I maybe wrong. I just know this summer I removed rivots on something else and didnt do a very good job doing it, so I wasn't sure the best way to remove them.
Would anyone grind the head off. And if I drill it out do I need to tap out the hole and use screws for the plate? If I do drill them out, will I end up screwing through the rivot and drop stuff onto the tank? Guess Iam not completely sure what will happen as Iam drilling them and how far down I will need to drill?
You just need to remove the head, 1/16" down from the top. Youll see the outer ring of the head seperate, then just push them through. Use a short sheet metal, or machine screw to re attach. You can use a 1/4"-3/16" bit.
"I like fun" Edd
Clawed: 90GW, TFI, Streetfire, 3"lift all spring, 31"BFG ATs, working RKE, Edel2131, Holly 1850, mild cam,
05 Renegade OME 927, 947, top plate, JBA 4.5s
"Just Jeepin it real"
The rivets are going to fall and stop wherever there's something to land on, whether it's the ground or something else. Use your hands and pick them up wherever they land. If they are metal a magnet can be use to retrieve them if you want. They aren't going to hurt a thing if you can't get them, but chances are you will see them once the cover place is off. It's pretty simple to figure out.