Fuel sending unit - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 42 Old 02-01-2014, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
jamesmega
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1988 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
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Things I learned today:
1 I'm def getting power to the display. The fuel gauge needle has a lot more resistance to it compared to the other dials. I've been using an electric hexane cleaning solution and it has loosened it up some. Is there anything else I can use?
2 when the FSU doesn't have a ground it registers full. When I use a ground it'll stop somewhere between half and a quarter tank. These are with the new unit out of the tank just adjusting the float arm.
3 I def needed the bulb set I ordered for the instrument cluster.

I plan on cleaning the ground when the new fuel lines come next Friday and changing the unit. Does anyone know of what could help with the info provided? Thanks.

I've added photos of the back of the display and with it connected when I was adjusting the float arm.

Procedure wise I removed three bulbs from the top and then the round connection with the aid of a flat head screw driver. I used a little liquid wrench to help get the speedometer cable off and the flat connection was easy to get off with the slack from the others being disconnected.

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post #17 of 42 Old 02-01-2014, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
jamesmega
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The picture says it. I found my Ishmael. I don't know if it was the dielectric gel, just moving the needle or spraying the gauge with the electric cleaner but the gauge works now. Apparently there wasn't enough voltage until I started the engine.
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post #18 of 42 Old 02-01-2014, 03:26 PM
RockRollin
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That Rocks
many times its the persistents, over the knowledge

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post #19 of 42 Old 02-01-2014, 07:57 PM
mpatch
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This may be obvious but if Iam replacing the fuel sending unit from the access panel on the floor do I need to have any empty tank \ drain the fuel? If so what is the best way to do that? And what is the best way to remove the rivots to access the tank?
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post #20 of 42 Old 02-01-2014, 10:22 PM
RockRollin
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Tank doesn't have to be empty. Should have screws not rivets, could be sound deadening covering the heads of screws.

"I like fun" Edd
Clawed: 90GW, TFI, Streetfire, 3"lift all spring, 31"BFG ATs, working RKE, Edel2131, Holly 1850, mild cam,
05 Renegade OME 927, 947, top plate, JBA 4.5s
"Just Jeepin it real"
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post #21 of 42 Old 02-02-2014, 09:55 AM
mpatch
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I believe it was originally rivot on. And if you have screws its been opened before, but I maybe wrong. I just know this summer I removed rivots on something else and didnt do a very good job doing it, so I wasn't sure the best way to remove them.
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post #22 of 42 Old 02-02-2014, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
jamesmega
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Mine had been riveted but the PO had already removed it for something else.
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post #23 of 42 Old 02-02-2014, 12:57 PM
mpatch
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Does anybody known the best way to pop the rivots so I can thread that area?
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post #24 of 42 Old 02-03-2014, 08:46 AM
CSP
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Drill the heads off.
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post #25 of 42 Old 02-05-2014, 08:53 AM
usererror
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James,

Now that yours is working maybe you can help this poster:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f57/n...wrong-2073937/

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post #26 of 42 Old 02-05-2014, 09:08 AM
ChrisHager
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Originally Posted by CSP View Post
Drill the heads off.
That's what I'd do. Just be careful to not stab the drill to far through. It doesn't take much to pop the heads off.

~Chris
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post #27 of 42 Old 02-05-2014, 09:40 PM
mpatch
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Would anyone grind the head off. And if I drill it out do I need to tap out the hole and use screws for the plate? If I do drill them out, will I end up screwing through the rivot and drop stuff onto the tank? Guess Iam not completely sure what will happen as Iam drilling them and how far down I will need to drill?
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post #28 of 42 Old 02-06-2014, 06:23 AM
RockRollin
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You just need to remove the head, 1/16" down from the top. Youll see the outer ring of the head seperate, then just push them through. Use a short sheet metal, or machine screw to re attach. You can use a 1/4"-3/16" bit.

"I like fun" Edd
Clawed: 90GW, TFI, Streetfire, 3"lift all spring, 31"BFG ATs, working RKE, Edel2131, Holly 1850, mild cam,
05 Renegade OME 927, 947, top plate, JBA 4.5s
"Just Jeepin it real"
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post #29 of 42 Old 02-06-2014, 07:11 AM
mpatch
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Thank you and do you still recommend removing theb head by drilling? And pushing the remaining rivot through, will the rivot just drop down to ground or will it fall into something?
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post #30 of 42 Old 02-06-2014, 07:44 AM
CSP
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You're making a mountain out of a molehill.

The rivets are going to fall and stop wherever there's something to land on, whether it's the ground or something else. Use your hands and pick them up wherever they land. If they are metal a magnet can be use to retrieve them if you want. They aren't going to hurt a thing if you can't get them, but chances are you will see them once the cover place is off. It's pretty simple to figure out.

Just drill the heads and get the job done!
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