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Unread 06-21-2013, 06:44 PM   #1
jetsetter57
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1974 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: chino hills, ca
Posts: 28
A few QT questions

First the park to reverse seems a kick in the pants every time....no matter how low I adjust the Idle. Second when I punch it at all straight or even around a corner easy the rear tires chirp from 1st to 2nd. I'll be the first to admit chirping 35's isn't all that awful but I'm sure it shouldn't be happening.

4:56 gears in the rear and driveshaft out of the front awaiting parts. D44's front and back.

Any knowledge would be great,
Thanks

One more thing. When would I ever be using the vacuum switch in the glove box? And the lever by the driver seat on the floor?

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Unread 06-21-2013, 09:55 PM   #2
pleontks
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1976 J-Series Truck 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Whetstone, Az
Posts: 1,130
park to reverse clunk is normal. Is either wear on output of tranny, or slack in q-trac chain.

Due you have a part-time kit, or is the tcase stock?

Is your axle stock? Any locker or posi or anything?

Vacuum switch locks front and rear axles together. Basically, your jeep's AWD, and the switch puts it in 4WD. I only use mine when I'm stuck. NEVER have it on while on pavement.

Lever is hi/lo. Down is hi, middle is neutral, up is lo. When down (hi), the lever is usually pretty darn close to the floor. I have to smack mine in with my palm, because there's no room for my fingers.

I've heard a lot not to drive with the front driveshaft out. I'm sure someone else will chime in with more knowledge on that.
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Unread 06-21-2013, 10:37 PM   #3
jetsetter57
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1974 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: chino hills, ca
Posts: 28
All I know is that they're d44 front and rear (6lug). There are hubs on the front wheel centers and none on the back(like 6in protrusion front, rear flush). What else can I do to tell exactly what axle/yr the front and back are? How would I tell if tcase is stock?

I was told the rear diff is a locked diff...all time power to both rears.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 02:54 PM   #4
super98lsc
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if the rear is locked as in a full/mini spool then you will squeal pretty easily on turns and it will be tough driving it on the street. I removed the spool from my 63 Galaxie project and installed a clutch type traction lock in the 9" ford rear for that reason. Is the trans shifting normally or slamming between gears? Might be time to check and perform a band adjustment on it.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 07:11 PM   #5
jetsetter57
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1974 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: chino hills, ca
Posts: 28
It slams into reverse 90% of the time and if I don't let up on the gas shifting into 2nd it'll slam. It's a th400.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 08:46 PM   #6
lucdog
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Sounds like a shift kit was installed in the transmission. I'm also thinking the ring and pinion may have excessive backlash. Or like mentioned above, slack in the chain, or a combo of both.
On the rear being locked, the only way to know for sure is to pull the differential cover and have a look. It wouldn't hurt to replace the fluid anyway. I assume with the front driveshaft removed you are either driving it in "E" drive. Or not currently driving at all.

On the front axle, are there lockouts, or just a round chrome cover a out 3" in diameter?

Bill
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1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 09:03 PM   #7
jetsetter57
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1974 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: chino hills, ca
Posts: 28
Round chrome cover 3" on the front hubs. I need to pull both back and front diff covers. I'll take pics. The rear is 4:56(allegedly) so I need to confirm before I take it in because if the front aren't at least a 3:56 I need a carrier offset adjustment or something like that.

As far as driving it, it's doing great with power just to the rears. Went off roading and it performed beautifully. Obviously I couldn't follow the little jeeps over the boulders but power was great.

Is it better to mod the vacuum switch (AWD to 4WD) than the glove box? Manual setup best? Heard the switch isn't all that reliable.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 10:24 PM   #8
lucdog
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1980 CJ5 
 
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Location: , Il.
Posts: 8,158
I'm use Using the stock set up. But I also have lockouts and run "E" drive most all the time. This is a 90% trail Jeep.
I've not heard of switch/valve problems over in the CJ section. If I had problems with either I'd go with a cable,

Bill
__________________
1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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