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Unread 04-05-2013, 06:51 PM   #46
super98lsc
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Yep been there with the stingray and the 71 olds. Those wire wheels work great. I learned to wear a dust mask after doing the front frame on the 442, I coughed up rust for two.days :-(

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96 Cherokee Country 4dr/2x2 White/Tan 3" Lift Sahara 18" Wheels 32.5"'s 99up head and intake- for sale soon!
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Unread 04-19-2013, 02:05 PM   #47
Dr. Marneaus
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Moving forward!!!!

FINALLLLYYYYY got these suckers in, surprising how easy it is when you use the right tool for the job (D44 adapter kit).

All pressed in and they move nice and easily and smoothly.


and look what I got!


Planning to pick up the rotors and wheel studs this weekend, as well as new grease seals for the hubs, and get everything assembled on saturday. Then the axle will be ready to be put up under the truck, just need to get some loose ends sorted out first (new tie rod ends, both sides, new TRE on the drag link, have to ream out the pitman arm on my steering box to accept the larger TRE, then once that crap is done, it can get bolted under the truck, get new calipers and pads, and be ready to run.

Oh, also working on getting a set of u bolts and u bolt plates lined up. We're gettin' there!
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The Beast Build Thread: Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread ----- The Camper Build Thread: Marns 1980 Jayco JayFinch6 Build Thread

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Unread 04-20-2013, 07:37 PM   #48
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Well...




image-2325248581.jpg



image-2060589449.jpg



image-3447648585.jpg



DONE
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The Beast Build Thread: Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread ----- The Camper Build Thread: Marns 1980 Jayco JayFinch6 Build Thread

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Unread 04-22-2013, 10:42 PM   #49
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After doing everything, one knuckle was way loose and the other was nice and firm, it was bugging me, so i got home around 8, grabbed the necessary tools (i knew off the top of my head haha) on my way through the garage from my work truck to the back yard, and broke the damn driver side down.

all came apart, but i DID have to hit the top of the ball joint a little with a hammer to get it loose. i definitely wasnt wailing on it.

Anyway, re-torqued everything to spec, and it was still loose. A little better but every time i tightened the top nut down to 100 ft.lbs i would have to go PAST that to get the castle nut to line up.

I undid everything and tried again. still loose.

tried again, still loose.

Tried one last time, still loose.

Okay. Went out and got the left over split sleeve, installed that, torqued everything down, and it was quite a bit better. It still sits low in the yoke (threads exposed) but everything is torqued to spec, and the steering was more stiff on that side than before. Still seems a little less than the other side, but im not going to sweat it. I checked, rechecked, rerechecked, rererechecked, and rerererechecked my work. I'm confident that everything was done to spec, everything is nice and smooth, and solid, so, I'll go with it.
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Unread 04-30-2013, 09:58 PM   #50
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done. or am i?




After spending 300 more dollars that i dont have on what i THOUGHT were the final parts of the axle that i needed to get it under the truck (200 bucks for tie rod ends, are you serious?) I realized i needed some brake hoses. Okay, no biggie.

55 dollars each, locally. 55 freaking dollars for a rubber hose with a fitting on each end. ARE YOU KIDDING ME!?!! It never ends. i cant stand it anymore.

I can order all three freaking stainless steel lines for a lifted rig for less than that from BJ's offroad. I am so pissed. I cannot stand this jeep and i regret ever starting this stupid freaking axle swap.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 11:30 AM   #51
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found out a set of brake lines from a 76 K20 will do the trick, at 12 bucks each, and they are about 3" longer than stock.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 12:20 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Marneaus View Post
found out a set of brake lines from a 76 K20 will do the trick, at 12 bucks each, and they are about 3" longer than stock.
That's better. I think "lift" is a key word for auto parts stores to double the price, kinda like saying "Corvette"
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Unread 05-01-2013, 12:29 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRollin

That's better. I think "lift" is a key word for auto parts stores to double the price, kinda like saying "Corvette"
No. The price of 55 each is for stock replacements.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 02:28 PM   #54
super98lsc
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Thats nuts!
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77-Corvette Stingray 496 BBC/TH400 built 667hp+
===================================
00 WJ 4x4, 4.7 stroker, turbocharged,..lots more..
01 WJ 4x2 4.7v8 Limited (needs valve job)
90 Grand Wagoneer 401 Edelbrock Heads, Lunati .510/.527 FT Cam, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, Holley HP 750, Thorley Headers, HEI, Electric Fan w Digital controller,4" lift 31x10.50 Goodyear Duratrac's on Pro-Comp Wheels,new interior, seats,seals,Alpine and JL full system, Remote HEI, Clifford 2 way with remote start,windows,tailgate.
96 Cherokee Country 4dr/2x2 White/Tan 3" Lift Sahara 18" Wheels 32.5"'s 99up head and intake- for sale soon!
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Unread 05-01-2013, 03:22 PM   #55
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$12.99 at the Zone
http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobil...t=brake%20line
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Unread 05-01-2013, 03:26 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRollin View Post
that would be cool if i was swapping in a 1973 axle, but that would be a little redundant seeing as I already have one of those.

1977 dana 44, not 1973 dana 30
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Unread 05-01-2013, 03:35 PM   #57
RockRollin
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Right!
Well that bumped it to.....well.....double the first price.
http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobil.../N-in9l6Z8knp9
Again I'll say "that sucks" ....
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Unread 05-01-2013, 03:49 PM   #58
Dr. Marneaus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRollin View Post
Right!
Well that bumped it to.....well.....double the first price.
http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobil.../N-in9l6Z8knp9
Again I'll say "that sucks" ....
well, as mentioned:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Marneaus View Post
found out a set of brake lines from a 76 K20 will do the trick, at 12 bucks each, and they are about 3" longer than stock.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 04:46 PM   #59
RockRollin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Marneaus View Post
well, as mentioned:
Man... just when I think I'm onto something
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Unread 05-01-2013, 08:54 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Marneaus View Post
found out a set of brake lines from a 76 K20 will do the trick, at 12 bucks each, and they are about 3" longer than stock.
This is true. The Chevy calipers are the same as the Waggie and share the same 3/16" inverted flare fittings at the frame end.
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