D44 Rebuild and Swap - Progress/Questions Thread - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 64 Old 03-01-2013, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP
I thought the same thing originally, but I would have to guess that Dana/Spicer would have assembled the axle housings rather than just delivering raw cases and tube to AMC.
I can imagine spiced still was working with parts that they already had rather than r&d for a new product.

What is interesting is that all WT vehicles used the same 5" offset rear end even with a centered t case. This is interesting that it didn't cause any problems being that far offset originally. I'm trying to go another 1.5" with a centered t case, so I imagine at stock height there wouldn't be much difference but with my lift we shall see.


I have confirmation from 1 source that he did this exact swap but on a stock height vehicle and it was 100% fine.

I also have heard tell of swapping d20's into narrow track QT rigs and it being 100% fine too, so.... We will see


-Andrew

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post #17 of 64 Old 03-01-2013, 04:59 PM
lar308
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I'll set the r&p's aside, not pressed to do anything with them. My Yj drive sahft was 15 1/2". Long wheel base definitely has is benifits. Ron
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post #18 of 64 Old 03-07-2013, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
Marn
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so, i'm planning to swap the rear in this weekend to see if it'll work or not.

Replaced wheel cylinder.


and look, here's me using the correct 5 dolalr tool to prevent ripping a huge hole in my arm like the last time i did drum brakes.

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post #19 of 64 Old 03-07-2013, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
Marn
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p.s. i hate drum brakes.

-Andrew

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post #20 of 64 Old 03-07-2013, 05:36 AM
timgr
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Drum brakes - not so bad with practice. The tool helps a lot. You can use the pliers end to install the springs too.

1) '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps. 2) '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, KOs, 7600 GVWR 3) '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top 4) '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
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post #21 of 64 Old 03-07-2013, 06:59 AM
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Just did the rear in my 90. Removed axles, cut off old bearings and races w grinder, chisel to crack races. Pressed on new bearings and seals. Already have good LSD and 3.31 so just pulled cover cleaned and new fluid, brakes, hardware. Un real how much quieter truck is now.
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post #22 of 64 Old 03-07-2013, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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nice!

But yeah, drum brakes are teh devil! Not complex or anything, but they are a PITA. I've done them several times before, and the last time as we all saw resulted in a trip to the emergency room.

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post #23 of 64 Old 03-07-2013, 03:24 PM
super98lsc
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I hate doing drums, i'm good at it, but hate it. Really hate doing brakes in general rofl.

www.mangierisrc.com
06-Corvette z51-6spd,b&b,K&N low miles.
77-Corvette Stingray 496 BBC/TH400 built 667hp+
===================================
00 WJ 4x4, 4.7 stroker, turbocharged,..lots more..
01 WJ 4x2 4.7v8 Limited (needs valve job)
90 Grand Wagoneer 401 Edelbrock Heads, Lunati .510/.527 FT Cam, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, Holley HP 750, Thorley Headers, HEI, Electric Fan w Digital controller,4" lift 31x10.50 Goodyear Duratrac's on Pro-Comp Wheels,new interior, seats,seals,Alpine and JL full system, Remote HEI, Clifford 2 way with remote start,windows,tailgate.
96 Cherokee Country 4dr/2x2 White/Tan 3" Lift Sahara 18" Wheels 32.5"'s 99up head and intake- for sale soon!
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post #24 of 64 Old 03-09-2013, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Out with the old



next to the slightly less old:



Seems Legit.....


But as of right now:

My brake lines are a total mess (need replaced) and I have no shocks, and the e-brake lines on this axle are cut do i need to address that when I do new shoes and drums and hardware.


My exhaust is held in place off to the side with a wire hanger


My front drive shaft is unbolted and held in place with a wire hanger and duct tape (and no i still dont have an inspection cover on my torque converter)


But, it seems to ride and drive fine. Had it up to about 50 in the neighborhood, havent dared to take it on the highway with those rotted 31's and no shocks. But, no weird vibes or anything, so, hopefully upwards of 60 MPH it drives the same.

Phew, i'm beat.

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post #25 of 64 Old 03-09-2013, 06:26 PM
CSP
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Looks like the offset issue is actually a non-issue? The diff looks like it's in the same relative position to the centerline or damn close.

What year is the Nova?
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post #26 of 64 Old 03-09-2013, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
Looks like the offset issue is actually a non-issue? The diff looks like it's in the same relative position to the centerline or damn close.

What year is the Nova?
The diff/pinion is a good 3+" to the right, there id a definite difference.

The nova is a 69.

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post #27 of 64 Old 03-09-2013, 06:59 PM
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Shock mounts?

"I like fun" Edd
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post #28 of 64 Old 03-09-2013, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRollin
Shock mounts?
What about them

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post #29 of 64 Old 03-09-2013, 07:50 PM
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Are they going to work. The "new" rear end has a straight line mount, the body is a centered mount

"I like fun" Edd
Clawed: 90GW, TFI, Streetfire, 3"lift all spring, 31"BFG ATs, working RKE, Edel2131, Holly 1850, mild cam,
05 Renegade OME 927, 947, top plate, JBA 4.5s
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post #30 of 64 Old 03-09-2013, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRollin
Are they going to work. The "new" rear end has a straight line mount, the body is a centered mount
No they will not work. I'm either going to cut them off my old shocks of get a similar tab style to weld kn

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