I just fixed the heat in our JK last weekend by flushing the heater core. (Chrysler left casting sand in the block and clogged it)
Regular hose did almost nothing for me. Instead, disconnect the hoses from the engine side. After flushing with water and blowing out/draining excess water, fill it with an aluminum safe radiator flush and let it sit like 40 minutes and hook both ends up to a drill-powered pump from harbor freight or the like ($15?). You can switch the drill direction without disconnecting so you can forcefully flush then back flush repeatedly without having to refill. Then rinse, repeat as needed and top off! Boom. Blast furnace.
Thanks for the tips. I tinkered a little yesterday morning - I removed the blower motor and found it was quite clean. I also verified that it works. I peaked in the heater core box when the blower motor was out and it appeared to be clean as well. I need to be sure the vacuum hose(s) to the controls are good. I think I need to flush the core as well. The coolant is fairly new and the radiator has been refurbished yet when we tested the coolant last night, I noticed it was a bit rusty looking. I'm willing to bet that came from the heater core...
I hooked a heater core hose to one side of the pump and submerged the other heater core hose in a bucket of clean water and started pumping. Note that with this pump, you have to get it cranking before it will self prime. Once primed, it works awesome!
After cycling both directions a few times...
Once I rinsed it, I ran the pump with the hose out of the water in an attempt to empty the core. Then I added some Preston Radiator Flush + Cleaner by dumping it down one of the heater core hoses. I let it sit for 20-30 minutes.
While this was sitting, I poked my head inside and saw this:
Even though I was jealous that I wasn't warm in front of the fire, I decided I needed to go out and get back to work. With the Prestone cleaner still in the heater core, I hooked the hoses up to cycle only the cleaner. I ran it both directions a few times and let it sit.
Lastly, I ran more clean water through both directions to rinse it out. I also attempted to remove most of the fluid from the heater core. In an attempt to not have an air lock in the core, I poured coolant down the hoses before I hooked them back up. Overall, I'm pleased with the outcome. With the temperatures only reaching a high of -2°F and a low of -13°F yesterday, I was pleased to notice an increase in temperature in the cab. I'm still not positive if everything is working as it should but I need to take it for a real drive before I make my final decision on the situation.
1. I may try the twin-stick install on Saturday. It partially depends on if anyone wants to come over to help. I'd prefer an extra hand if I end up having to slide the D20 away from the transmission...
2. I've been thinking about a rear hitch, especially since I've recently taken a couple loads of wood to my Grandpa. Pulling a trailer would allow for quite a bit more wood per trip. Plus, I need a hitch/recovery point. In one of my first posts, I stated that BJ's Offroad sells a hitch for my truck:
Originally Posted by ChrisHager
5. I NEED to install a hitch on the truck, especially since I'm going to use this to haul wood on my little trailer. I found BJ's Off-Road sells a new hitch with hardware included for $325 shipped. That doesn't seem too bad! http://www.bjsoffroad.com/prod-1098.htm
It took me a while to notice but if you follow that link, you'll see that hitch is only for the Wagoneer, Grand Wagoneer, and Cherokee. I know that the J-10 frame is wider than the Wag frame so clearly, that hitch won't work.
So, since a hitch cannot be purchased, I'm thinking about buying the steel and building one myself. I have two small welders (stick and wire), I have access to a shop with a plasma cutter and a nice welder, I may have access to an actual metal shop, and I have a friend who can cut me stuff on a CNC machine if I so need. In the tool department, I'm pretty much covered. If I go this route, what material do I need (size, type, etc.). I need to look things over but I'm thinking about building one for the front as well while I'm at it.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm not extremely well versed in this yet but with the friends and resources at hand, I feel confident in how this could turn out.
The twin stick is installed!!! While a little head scratching was involved, we were able to figure out how to remove/install the shifters without taking anything apart.
This is the support rail for the shifter.
It mounts to the shifter with two bolts (1/2" square heads).
It also mounts to the transfer case in the same way (twin stick installed in this picture).
First, I removed the two bolts holding the shifter support rod to the transfer case. In the above picture, you can also see the large bolt missing from the transmission. It came out very easily and allows for much more wiggling room. I also removed the two bolts holding the shifter to the support rod. At this point, you'll find how frustrating it is when you realize how close the rod is to coming out yet hits the transmission and ultimately goes nowhere. To remedy, push the rod as far back into the transfer case as possible and slide the shifter on the rod towards the transfer case as well, revealing the front of the support rod. Once you're to this point, get out your handy die grinder and carbide bit and shave off some of the rod (I did this from above through the shifter hole).
I also took a tiny bit off the side of the transmission, mainly providing a smooth edge instead of a blunt stopping point for the support rod. This isn't necessary though. You can slightly see what I removed below the bolt hole.
Once enough is ground off, the rod and shifter will slide right out.
Here is how the shaved rod looks in the old shifter. With the small amount removed, there is plenty of structure left.
New twin stick assembly:
The following picture shows you the two original shift rails that need to be removed as well as the location on the transfer case where the support rod slips in.
Twin stick slipped into place.
The new twin stick mounts to the support rod with two hex bolts. For reference, these bolts used a #4 allen wrench.
The following pictures are of everything coming together. The cotter pin picture is for size reference for those looking to do the same thing. They hold in the shifter rods.
Plenty of room for the shifter rods to move.
The twin stick works well! I'm excited this project is finished.
Quick question - there is no harm in driving in front wheel drive 2HI, correct? I want to be sure as I can see how that may be handy on slick roads when 4HI is a little too much.
Small tid-bit: Though it was difficult to get an exact measurement because of the tires sticking out, it appears from center of the hub to the fender, I measure 22.5" both front and rear. Keep in mind, this is with the 3" Rough Country springs.
Update to the above: The vacuum ball has a small hose running into the cab that hooks to the heater controls. The larger line that is unhooked is supposed to hook up to manifold vacuum. Once I did this, I had moving air in the cab!
When my father-in-law bought the J-10 years ago, it was in its stock form. Before he spruced it up, he took a bunch of pictures and measurements of the Honcho decals. At the time, he was considering painting the honcho decals back on after repainting the body. Here is a link to the album (I don't want to paste ~130 images in here): J-10 Originals
He also wanted to match the original paint color but as you can tell, the new color came out quite a bit darker. Here are some highlight photos of the truck in its original form. I threw in a few measurement pictures to give you an idea of what's in the album. These measurements may be helpful to someone looking for the original placement of everything.
Also, I believe the very first photo may be how he bought it (speculation). You'll notice in the pictures following the first, the mirrors are removed and the drivers side is replaced with the smaller unit. Now if only I can find one for the passenger side!