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Unread 02-20-2013, 06:23 PM   #1
Njokela
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1977 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
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Carb rebuild

Hello everyone, I am brand new to fsj's having rescued one from a driveway here in Virginia beach. I was working on it today and put a new fuel filter on it because she would start and idle but cut out while driving. After I put the new in line filter in, fuel is leaking out of the fuel line to the lower part of the carb, and shooting out of the over flow port on the filter. I'm assuming rebuilding the carb and putting new lines in should resolve the problem. It's the 5.9l with the 2 barrel carb. Any help would be appreciated!!!!

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Unread 02-20-2013, 06:37 PM   #2
RockRollin
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Does the filter have a return line back to the tank
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Unread 02-20-2013, 07:28 PM   #3
Njokela
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This is going to seem dumb...the filter has one inlet, two outlet. One is level with the inlet tube, the other is lower, is that supposed to return to the tank? The guy I had it from had a piece of cut hose to it. If its supposed to be a return to the tank, where do I look for a missing line to put a new hose?
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Unread 02-20-2013, 07:47 PM   #4
RockRollin
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Yes one in, two out. The center out to the carb, the offset out (at 12:00 position) to the return. The return line should be running with the feed line on the frame. I would trace the feed line from pump back to tank and see if I could find the loose return line. That return also acts like a regulator, so if its plugged off, too much pressure
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"I like fun" Edd
Clawed: 90GW, TFI, Streetfire, 3"lift all spring, 31"BFG ATs, working RKE, Edel2131, Holly 1850, mild cam,
05 Renegade OME 927, 947, top plate, JBA 4.5s
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Unread 02-21-2013, 04:13 AM   #5
Njokela
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Awesome thank you so much for the help, last question...do you know of any diagrams or how to's for this issue as Weill as carb rebuilding? Thanks again!
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Unread 02-21-2013, 07:24 AM   #6
timgr
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Year/model? Equipment?

It's specific to the year and equipment.

Your best source is the factory service manual, available for purchase as a reprint. If you buy a carburetor kit to rebuild the carb, it will contain an exploded drawing and some instructions.

There is some information on www.oljeep.com - but not for every year. Take a look there.
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1) '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps. 2) '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, KOs, 7600 GVWR 3) '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top 4) '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
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Unread 02-21-2013, 08:51 AM   #7
RockRollin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timgr View Post
Year/model? Equipment?

It's specific to the year and equipment.

Your best source is the factory service manual, available for purchase as a reprint. If you buy a carburetor kit to rebuild the carb, it will contain an exploded drawing and some instructions.

There is some information on www.oljeep.com - but not for every year. Take a look there.
The oljeep site maybe will have the fuel diagrams. I'm going to assume since you referred to a 5.9 not 360 its late 80s or later. It is specific to the year. Look this link over and see if its the same carb. Its a great rebuild write up
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...t=2150+rebuild
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Clawed: 90GW, TFI, Streetfire, 3"lift all spring, 31"BFG ATs, working RKE, Edel2131, Holly 1850, mild cam,
05 Renegade OME 927, 947, top plate, JBA 4.5s
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Unread 02-21-2013, 07:27 PM   #8
Njokela
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Just shows how new I am, it's the amc 360, a 1977 wag. Pretty much needs to be fully restored, but I figure its worth the time and its something I've always wanted to do. I'll post pics soon of where I am with the progress.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 08:42 PM   #9
timgr
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There's a 1976 FSM here http://oljeep.com/gw/76_tsm/Section4.pdf that will describe a similar carburetor. A '77 could have a Motorcraft 2100 or a Motorcraft 2150 carburetor - both are shown in the '77 service manual.
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1) '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps. 2) '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, KOs, 7600 GVWR 3) '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top 4) '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
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Unread 02-23-2013, 03:37 PM   #10
Njokela
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Ok so one problem leads to another. So I fixed the return fuel line thank you to everyone for their input. No more spraying fuel. Now the engine will start and run idle, I can rev the engine and everything. However when I put it in drive it goes for a little bit then sputters and stalls out. The guy who brought it over had it running super rich, I could smell the fuel. I pulled the distributor cap cleaned it, and the wires are new. So any ideas on the issue? Also the carb is getting fuel, since the bowl keeps refilling. I'm thinking maybe fouled spark plugs??
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Unread 02-23-2013, 03:47 PM   #11
timgr
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Vacuum leak? You got everything connected up right? No leaks around the carburator base? The PO may have cranked up the idle mixture to compensate for a vacuum leak.

If your plugs are fouled, clean them and put them back. Oily plugs points to internal engine problems (ie a worn-out engine). If they are fouled with gas, that should clear up once you get the carburetion straightened out.

If this were my car, I'd do a complete tune up (plugs, wires, cap & rotor, filters, oil, etc.) before I tried to figure out any other issues. Used cars usually come with junky old ignition parts, and you'll want to know the history of all the ignition parts anyway - the only way to do that is to replace them all. I'd replace all the hoses and belts too ... typical stuff for an old used car.
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1) '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps. 2) '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, KOs, 7600 GVWR 3) '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top 4) '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
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Unread 02-23-2013, 03:55 PM   #12
pleontks
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check the vacuum line at the tranny. goes from rear of intake to the firewall and down to tranny, then there's usually a little section of soft tube onto the tranny.

do you still have/need the emissions crap?
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Unread 02-23-2013, 04:22 PM   #13
Njokela
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Thanks for the head up. So the long story short, the guy I got it from put it together from some guys barn. I traded him two jackets and a helmet for it. I'm trying to get it running enough to get to my new house, once there I begin my complete rebuild and restoration. Now that you mention vacuum leak, I was hearing some air suction coming from the engine bay that I couldn't pin point. There are no more fluid leaks but air or vacuum leaks may be another story.
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Unread 02-24-2013, 05:21 PM   #14
Njokela
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Ok so I just changed out all the spark plugs, she fires up and idles awesome. However putting it in drive she stalls out. Checked vacuum hoses an they all look intact, lubed the egr valve and it moves freely with manual compression. I dot know where to go from here...timing issue?
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Unread 02-24-2013, 06:08 PM   #15
timgr
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The added load of the transmission in drive will slow the idle speed. Turn the idle up at the linkage (idle stop) until it idles in drive. Use a tachometer to set the proper idle speed. There is a spec for idle speed in drive.

Check for vacuum leaks around the base of the carburetor, and around the manifold. Test manifold vacuum with a vacuum gauge.
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1) '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps. 2) '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, KOs, 7600 GVWR 3) '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top 4) '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
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