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Unread 03-10-2013, 06:49 PM   #1
RUNWFO
Registered User
1989 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 2
89 Grand Wagoneer power window problem

I just picked up an 89 GW and my first task is to get the power windows working. I searched but could not find any info on this issue. The drivers window goes down OK, but when going up I have to release the button at just the right time or the motor keeps running causing a loud binding of gears. Where should I look? Is there a sensor that controls this or an issue with the switch or motor?

Thanks for any advice!!!

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Unread 03-11-2013, 06:20 AM   #2
muddy93
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1987 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Templeton, Indiana
Posts: 1,908
No sensors, sorry. These are really simple and basic systems. any time you move the switch, the motor will get power. Put the switch in either the up or down position, and the motor will run untill you relese the switch.

What you may be hearing is a bad flex rack (little plastic track used to raise and lower the window), it has teeth on it and is driven by the window motor. Over time they get brittle and the teeth can brake off. Best advice I can give is to pull the door panel and take a look.
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Unread 03-11-2013, 06:37 AM   #3
super98lsc
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,414
Did 89 still have plastic flex racks? My 90 is solid metal construction. Take the door panel off put the window down 2 inches or so, and you will see where 2 bolts hold the glass to the regulator. Have someone hold or tape the glass in position so it does not fall down and remove the bolts. Then you can remove the regulator and motor assy from the door. On my 90 I did not want to spend a ton of cash on all new motors, regulators cannot be purchased for it easily but are easy to clean, re grease and rebuild. So I pulled all 4 of them and cleaned and bench built them. Remove the cable drive (metal flexible cable that looks like a screw) this meshes with the metal gear on the window motor and pulls/pushes the window up or down. The grease on this dries up becomes brittle, crunchy etc. I pulled mine apart cleaned in solvent re-greased and put it all back into the regulator. The motor is riveted to the regulator and thus must be drilled to remove. Once removed the motor cases come apart easy. I then removed the main plate where the power wires go into the motors, brushes etc. The brushes on mine were all in perfect shape but the comm/stator on the motors needed to be cleaned up. I just spun them in a drill motor with some 1000 grit paper to clean the surface and smooth them out. I then drilled 2 small pilot holes in the brush holder and inserted a paper clip to hold the brushes back so I could reassemble the motors. I cleaned and lubed the transmissions as well. I then bolted all that back into one assy using new screws/bolts/nuts and some locktite. Tested it on the bench to ensure it all works smooth/fast. Then use some silicon spray on all the window felts and tracks. You will be suprised how hard the window is to move in the 25 year old felts. This places a ton of strain on the motors/regulators. If you have the cable drives like i do the gears are all metal as are the cables. You can buy replacement gears and cables to rebuild the regulators. Naturally rebuilt motors are avail as well. Mine all work fairly much like new and I spent ZERO $$ on them other than my time spent. I did the same process for all 4 lock servo motors and they work like machine guns now!. Also wire wheeled/greased the tailgate regulator gear/assy so its fast and solid now as well. Example of a comm.. Team GW and BJ's I both sell parts. If the 89 still had the plastic FlexRacks then motor rebuilds apply but the plastic racks need replaced as muddy said.
commutator-example.jpg  
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Unread 03-11-2013, 07:31 AM   #4
muddy93
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1987 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Templeton, Indiana
Posts: 1,908
I'm not sure when they switched to the metal construction on the window lifters? I know my 87 came with the plastic flex racks, but a PO had swapped a metal one from a later model wagoneer into one of the rear doors.
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Unread 03-11-2013, 07:33 AM   #5
RUNWFO
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1989 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 2
Thanks for all the tips!!! I will dig in ASAP and work on getting this resolved.
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Unread 03-11-2013, 07:38 AM   #6
super98lsc
Web Wheeler
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,414
one more thing, check the voltages coming through to the switches make certain its getting a full 12v. Mine had some 1/2 arsed crimp repairs done in the doorjamb harness that were not up to carrying the current load that these motors draw. The metal regulators are pretty darn tough design. New cables for the cable drives can be purchased if needed, as can the metal gears.
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06-Corvette z51-6spd,b&b,K&N low miles.
77-Corvette Stingray 496 BBC/TH400 built 667hp+
===================================
00 WJ 4x4, 4.7 stroker, turbocharged,..lots more..
01 WJ 4x2 4.7v8 Limited (needs valve job)
90 Grand Wagoneer 401 Edelbrock Heads, Lunati .510/.527 FT Cam, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, Holley HP 750, Thorley Headers, HEI, Electric Fan w Digital controller,4" lift 31x10.50 Goodyear Duratrac's on Pro-Comp Wheels,new interior, seats,seals,Alpine and JL full system, Remote HEI, Clifford 2 way with remote start,windows,tailgate.
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