Sorry was trying to help from the road via phone last night, on PC at office now.
Red charge wire should go to the battery ( or main charge wire in harness )
Connect a wire from PIN 2 of the alt to the Battery + terminal on the back of alternator or for better charge output you can move this to the Battery LUG terminal on the battery or the starter solenoid. This wire is the sensing lead off the regulator that will tell the internal reg in the alt how much output to provide. So if your 26 year old wiring has a 1-2v drop the alt can try to compensate and provide more accurate voltage to the entire system.
Then you need to take the (i think white wire if memory serves correctly) but pin 1 and connect that to the wire that goes to your voltage gauge in the dash or idiot light.
If that circuit has been re-wired by someone incorrectly then it can cause all sorts of issues with charging.
The simple fix for it will be to connect the white wire to a 300ohm resistor to ground. So essentially you can do that right on the back of the alt or run a wire up from the alt PIN 1 to any place you can get a clean ground.
White wire (PIN 1) > 400ohm resistor > ground ... this will trigger the regulator to charge, cars without a dummy light use a gauge or resistor to accomplish this. It should charge then.
Nothing wrong with the diode fix either (Radio Shack p/n 276-1143 or 276-1144) I just didnt want to count on a diode, it burns out and she stops charging. Resistor that really doesn't have a load on it is less likely to fail IMHO. And no matter what happens when I shut the key off I know the coil dies.
I installed a newer CS 144 unit from a police/taxi which puts out 150amps vs. the factory 87 amp unit, in doing so I upgraded to 4ga. charge wiring etc so I read 14.4 in the cab when running. Also I am running a non resistor wire to my coil/ignition as I replaced that with an MSD TFI coil and built my own HEI external module to run the system at full voltage for a much hotter spark. Runs much cleaner even leaned out the idle mix from 14.1 to 14.7 on the wideband. I took a before and after within 15 minutes on a hot engine just to see if there was an actual scientific result of a hotter spark. The HEI has more dwell time (coil charge time) combined with the full 14.4 voltage to the system = much better spark energy overall.
06-Corvette z51-6spd,b&b,K&N low miles.
77-Corvette Stingray 496 BBC/TH400 built 667hp+
00 WJ 4x4, 4.7 stroker, turbocharged,..lots more..
01 WJ 4x2 4.7v8 Limited (needs valve job)
90 Grand Wagoneer 401 Edelbrock Heads, Lunati .510/.527 FT Cam, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, Holley HP 750, Thorley Headers, HEI, Electric Fan w Digital controller,4" lift 31x10.50 Goodyear Duratrac's on Pro-Comp Wheels,new interior, seats,seals,Alpine and JL full system, Remote HEI, Clifford 2 way with remote start,windows,tailgate.
96 Cherokee Country 4dr/2x2 White/Tan 3" Lift Sahara 18" Wheels 32.5"'s 99up head and intake- for sale soon!