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Unread 03-25-2013, 07:55 PM   #16
RockRollin
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1990 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super98lsc View Post
This is what I mean. On the wagons the pos lead feeds back to the ignition/starter solenoid on the passenger fender/which is the same wiring as the coil. So if this is shorted straight to the battery B+ terminal on the ALT the car wont shut down.
Great fix man. I may remove diode and do this on mine.

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Unread 03-25-2013, 08:21 PM   #17
mkimball72
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1986 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: show low, az
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I pull either wire and the car shuts down fine but not charging when I have either wire disconnected. Here's my setup. My large post (b+) on the alternator is run to shared post on solenoid along with the battery. The 1 post wire as shown in your diagram is run to the long resistance wire that also ties into two yellows that go to my ignition module and bulkhead. Also looped into that resistance wire bundle is the (+) off my coil and the green/white wire on top post furthest from the shared post on my solenoid. The 2 post on my alternator also runs to the shared post on my solenoid. Does that make any sense? Surely having all three legs of my alternator going directly or indirectly to my solenoid can't be right. But I need the girl to charge so not sure how to proceed.
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Unread 03-26-2013, 09:38 AM   #18
super98lsc
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Sorry was trying to help from the road via phone last night, on PC at office now.

Red charge wire should go to the battery ( or main charge wire in harness )
Connect a wire from PIN 2 of the alt to the Battery + terminal on the back of alternator or for better charge output you can move this to the Battery LUG terminal on the battery or the starter solenoid. This wire is the sensing lead off the regulator that will tell the internal reg in the alt how much output to provide. So if your 26 year old wiring has a 1-2v drop the alt can try to compensate and provide more accurate voltage to the entire system.

Then you need to take the (i think white wire if memory serves correctly) but pin 1 and connect that to the wire that goes to your voltage gauge in the dash or idiot light.
If that circuit has been re-wired by someone incorrectly then it can cause all sorts of issues with charging.
The simple fix for it will be to connect the white wire to a 300ohm resistor to ground. So essentially you can do that right on the back of the alt or run a wire up from the alt PIN 1 to any place you can get a clean ground.

White wire (PIN 1) > 400ohm resistor > ground ... this will trigger the regulator to charge, cars without a dummy light use a gauge or resistor to accomplish this. It should charge then.

Nothing wrong with the diode fix either (Radio Shack p/n 276-1143 or 276-1144) I just didnt want to count on a diode, it burns out and she stops charging. Resistor that really doesn't have a load on it is less likely to fail IMHO. And no matter what happens when I shut the key off I know the coil dies.
.................................................. ..................
I installed a newer CS 144 unit from a police/taxi which puts out 150amps vs. the factory 87 amp unit, in doing so I upgraded to 4ga. charge wiring etc so I read 14.4 in the cab when running. Also I am running a non resistor wire to my coil/ignition as I replaced that with an MSD TFI coil and built my own HEI external module to run the system at full voltage for a much hotter spark. Runs much cleaner even leaned out the idle mix from 14.1 to 14.7 on the wideband. I took a before and after within 15 minutes on a hot engine just to see if there was an actual scientific result of a hotter spark. The HEI has more dwell time (coil charge time) combined with the full 14.4 voltage to the system = much better spark energy overall.
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Unread 03-26-2013, 05:05 PM   #19
mkimball72
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I appreciate it. I got the old girl charging and shutting down properly. Thanks again.
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