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Unread 03-23-2013, 08:01 AM   #1
mkimball72
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86 gw ignition wiring.

I yanked all of my smog control and ran new exhaust minus the cat. I'm currently trying to clean up the engine compartment and have eliminated most of the vacuum lines. Now the wiring. What do I absolutely have to have. Of course I want my all of my electric options to function but for an example, do I need the ignition module? Are there upgrades I should make from the stock setup that may tighten up the bundle of wires running along my engine?

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Unread 03-23-2013, 08:06 AM   #2
revelc
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MSD makes a ready to run distributor. All you need is a coil. I mounted mine on the drivers side fender well. It just runs a small loom to the dizzy and of course the coil wire.


Make sure you plug all the lines and note that some may affect A/C and heater functions.
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Unread 03-23-2013, 08:15 AM   #3
mkimball72
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Everything works fine, besides the pre discussed continually running issue. So with this msd unit I could lose my current wires running to the distributor and coil and ignition module or does it utilize the stock ign. module?
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Unread 03-23-2013, 08:29 AM   #4
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkimball72
Everything works fine, besides the pre discussed continually running issue. So with this msd unit I could lose my current wires running to the distributor and coil and ignition module or does it utilize the stock ign. module?
I eliminated my ignition box and set my new coil in its place. You will be able to prune the wires running over your engine and run them from the new coil to the dizzy along with the coil wire. There are 4 wires coming out of the MSD dizzy but they are wrapped together in a small bundle and don't look bad at all.
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 03-23-2013, 08:37 AM   #5
mkimball72
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So I looked up the msd unit and it all looks good. How about the cluster of wires running to my solenoid? Crazy! I have 6 wires running off the positive terminal alone!
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Unread 03-23-2013, 08:44 AM   #6
revelc
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I have 5 or 6 wires attached to mine total. You might need to start tracing and disconnecting them one by one to see what their functions are.
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Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 03-23-2013, 11:37 AM   #7
mkimball72
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Another question, where does the super long brown wire go? Mine is connected the the back of my alternator. If this is not correct, where should it terminate and where should my alternator wire go?
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Unread 03-23-2013, 11:57 AM   #8
revelc
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I would say to the positive terminal on the battery but I'm not sure. I haven't looked at mine today. The weather is crummy. When it clears up I can check.
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Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 03-23-2013, 04:08 PM   #9
RockRollin
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I had to put a diode in the field terminal on my 90 to stop the run on. I'm not sure that we are using the same wiring harness though. I wish I would have found the distributor that revelc is using. I would like to have cleaned things up more, well maybe next time
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Unread 03-24-2013, 02:11 PM   #10
mkimball72
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Is the long brown wire considered the "resistance" wire? Can't I just run the green and white wire from my ignition module to my neg (-) side of coil and the yellow off the pos (+) side of my coil to the positive terminal on my solenoid? I don't get the long brown wire spliced into a green and white off the solenoid then spliced into my yellow coil wire then into two yellow wires, one going to ignition module, other going to fuse block. Thinkin something's crossed up and maybe that's why I'm having the run on issue.
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Unread 03-24-2013, 02:57 PM   #11
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkimball72
Is the long brown wire considered the "resistance" wire? Can't I just run the green and white wire from my ignition module to my neg (-) side of coil and the yellow off the pos (+) side of my coil to the positive terminal on my solenoid? I don't get the long brown wire spliced into a green and white off the solenoid then spliced into my yellow coil wire then into two yellow wires, one going to ignition module, other going to fuse block. Thinkin something's crossed up and maybe that's why I'm having the run on issue.
To be honest. If someone has screwed with the wiring there is no telling what color wire goes where.
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 03-24-2013, 04:34 PM   #12
RockRollin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revelc View Post
To be honest. If someone has screwed with the wiring there is no telling what color wire goes where.
X2
http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/GW_wiring.html
Ya may have to start from scratch, if its been cobbleified
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Unread 03-24-2013, 10:48 PM   #13
pleontks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkimball72 View Post
Is the long brown wire considered the "resistance" wire? Can't I just run the green and white wire from my ignition module to my neg (-) side of coil and the yellow off the pos (+) side of my coil to the positive terminal on my solenoid? I don't get the long brown wire spliced into a green and white off the solenoid then spliced into my yellow coil wire then into two yellow wires, one going to ignition module, other going to fuse block. Thinkin something's crossed up and maybe that's why I'm having the run on issue.
sounds like te resistance wire. You need it. Length determines resistance, that's why it's so long. You can replace with a ballast resistor (those rectangle porcelain ones on the sides of the old coils)
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