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Unread 03-23-2013, 12:15 PM   #1
Linkraver
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1981 J-Series Truck 
 
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81 J10 tune up

So i just purchased this Jeep and need some help tuning it up right. The air pump has been taken off and i believe it has the stock MC carb on it. i have a chance to buy an upgraded coil. but not enough money for an upgraded Ignition module. so my questions are this:
1. What vaccuum lines need to be hooked up for this to run right.

2. Can i run the upgraded coil with the stock IM??

3. Any ideas on how to tune the carb right. it was rebuilt by someone last year.

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Unread 03-25-2013, 05:31 PM   #2
Linkraver
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update

ok,so here is a lil update. Ended up buying stock everything for the truck and she came to life!!! noticed alot of oil in a few of the chambers when i changed plugs. figure it might be valve seals or head gasket. Which takes me to my next deilema. i deceided to change the valve cover gaskets due to leaking and found that my number 2 exhaust push rod was bent to hell!! sad day for sure. but im getting a new rod tonight n hoping it was just caused by the super loose rocker arm hold down bolt. so my next question is this
1. how do u tune the carbusing a vaccuum gauge

2. how do u identify which carb u have. i believe mine is a 2100. but not sure
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Unread 03-25-2013, 06:10 PM   #3
pleontks
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2. post a pic for us
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Unread 03-27-2013, 12:15 AM   #4
Linkraver
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will do peleontks :-)
but another update.
got the new rod and searched almost the whole yellowstone county for a freakin new rocker arm bolt lol settled for a grade 8 nonflanged(unlike the orig) bolt n some locktight put everything in and turned the engine over by hand to check for proper operation. And BAM!!! another issue turned up the number 2 exhaust valve wasnt opening more then a 1/16th an inch and the rocker arm was loose as a goose. so i took off the intake, exhaust and heads and man o man was there some caked on oil. and something i didnt want to see.....the lifter next to the rod that got bent was found to be hammered!!(number 2 intake bent, the exhaust lifter hammered)and a matching jacked up cam lobe getting nowhere with this thing lol so now im ordering a new cam from summit(stock lift n such) and basically doing a complete engine overhaul in my driveway lol good thing its spring hahahaha. i have a really bad pan gasket leak so im going to take off the pan and check the bearings n such. had some smoke while running as well, so im going to do the valve seals and the rings if i can do it without machining um not to many questions at this point lol but im sure something will come up lol and any thoughts on maybe doing some upgrade stuff would be awesome
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Unread 03-27-2013, 12:31 PM   #5
super98lsc
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If your reusing the pistons you can borrow/rent/purchase a bore gauge and check for taper. If they are relatively straight then just hone the bores with drill motor ball hone to put a good crosshatch back on them. Replacing bearings without turning the crank and resizing the big ends of the rods might be a gamble. Personally if I am in that far ill just have the machinist do it all and not have any future worries. Make certain that wiped out cam was not run that way for a while or it most certainly circulated metal through the oil. Also rebuild the oil pump and check the walls of the front cover for clearance/scoring. If you want to Ditch that Duraspark box and run a full 12-14.4v to your coil you can use a 20 dollar HEI module mounted to a heatsink and an upgraded TFI/MSD coil like I did. I mounted it to a PC heat sink and some aluminum bar stock and rubber isolation mounts which screw to the factory location on the driver inner fender. Clean/cheap/easy and increase in spark output.
hei-module-duraspark.jpg   20130302_162710.jpg  
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Unread 03-27-2013, 12:43 PM   #6
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super98lsc
If your reusing the pistons you can borrow/rent/purchase a bore gauge and check for taper. If they are relatively straight then just hone the bores with drill motor ball hone to put a good crosshatch back on them. Replacing bearings without turning the crank and resizing the big ends of the rods might be a gamble. Personally if I am in that far ill just have the machinist do it all and not have any future worries. Make certain that wiped out cam was not run that way for a while or it most certainly circulated metal through the oil. Also rebuild the oil pump and check the walls of the front cover for clearance/scoring. If you want to Ditch that Duraspark box and run a full 12-14.4v to your coil you can use a 20 dollar HEI module mounted to a heatsink and an upgraded TFI/MSD coil like I did. I mounted it to a PC heat sink and some aluminum bar stock and rubber isolation mounts which screw to the factory location on the driver inner fender. Clean/cheap/easy and increase in spark output.
X2 on all of this.
Is there a reason you don't want to upgrade your can profile while your already in there? A mild cam can improve power and mileage.
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
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Unread 03-27-2013, 01:38 PM   #7
Linkraver
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thanks super98lsc. i will look into that.
and that is the kinda of info i was looking for revelc. what sort of lobe duration should i look for??
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Unread 03-27-2013, 02:22 PM   #8
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Linkraver
thanks super98lsc. i will look into that.
and that is the kinda of info i was looking for revelc. what sort of lobe duration should i look for??
260-270 at 110 can give you a little boost, let you retain your stock valves and torque converter. Just make sure the lift doesn't exceed .500
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 03-27-2013, 03:03 PM   #9
super98lsc
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x2 on the cam. Mine was done before I got the truck. Its a mystery what it is but its a 360 thats been out completely hot tanked and repainted grey and put back in. Valve covers/pan/cover/intake are all blue. It only has 15" of vac at 650rpm at peak tune, with 20 deg. initial timing 38 all in by 2800. Its insane how much timing this engine likes, it hates anything under 18 base. I have vac adv connected to the carb. Not certain where they degreed the cam at either so it could be straight up or if used the stock AMC timing set it may be off by 4 deg. Either way zero yours out and install something with some good lift the stock units were pathetic and couldnt begin to fill the cylinders adequately. Mine does move quite well for a big truck. She can lay the speedo down >100+ at 1/2 throttle without even wheezing. I know the stock 140hp/285tq 360 wouldnt do that.
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06-Corvette z51-6spd,b&b,K&N low miles.
77-Corvette Stingray 496 BBC/TH400 built 667hp+
===================================
00 WJ 4x4, 4.7 stroker, turbocharged,..lots more..
01 WJ 4x2 4.7v8 Limited (needs valve job)
90 Grand Wagoneer 401 Edelbrock Heads, Lunati .510/.527 FT Cam, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, Holley HP 750, Thorley Headers, HEI, Electric Fan w Digital controller,4" lift 31x10.50 Goodyear Duratrac's on Pro-Comp Wheels,new interior, seats,seals,Alpine and JL full system, Remote HEI, Clifford 2 way with remote start,windows,tailgate.
96 Cherokee Country 4dr/2x2 White/Tan 3" Lift Sahara 18" Wheels 32.5"'s 99up head and intake- for sale soon!
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Unread 03-27-2013, 05:07 PM   #10
Linkraver
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thanks revelc!!! ur the man!! So i found a Comp cam from summit with a 260/260(212/212) grind. I can also get a high performance one from O'reillys as well. i believe it is close to the same grind. that cams actuals were like 204/214 or something like that. on summit that basically equats close to a 250 ish to 260 ish lol any thoughts??
oh n im going to post some pics lol need to id my carb lol
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Unread 03-27-2013, 05:27 PM   #11
revelc
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http://www.bulltear.com/forums/showt...988#post132988

Here is a post I replied with some cam options in. Some may require new valve springs so keep that in mind. Dont meet or exceed .500 with stock springs.

All of them should improve lower to mid range power.
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 03-27-2013, 09:47 PM   #12
Linkraver
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so here is my carb
2013-03-27-16.40.07.jpg   2013-03-27-16.40.17.jpg  
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Unread 03-27-2013, 09:56 PM   #13
Linkraver
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oh n some other pics
2013-03-27-16.40.57.jpg   2013-03-27-16.38.43.jpg   2013-03-27-16.39.29.jpg   resizedimage951364435960976.jpg   resizedimage951364435901077.jpg  

2013-03-25-17.48.25.jpg  
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Unread 03-27-2013, 09:56 PM   #14
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Linkraver
so here is my carb
Mine jumped off my intake and into a trash can. It's a shame it had to be replaced by that sweet Holley.
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 03-27-2013, 10:03 PM   #15
Linkraver
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yeah if i could afford a edelbrock intake and holly i would. but this is a daily driver.trying to get the best gas mileage
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