'72 Willys J2000 Project Thread - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 73 Old 11-10-2014, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
KirklandXJ
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'72 Willys J2000 Project Thread

After 1 year of not owning a Jeep, I couldn't stand it anymore. I needed something to work on in the garage so I just picked up a '72 Jeep J2000 off Craigslist for $950 (guy was asking $1300)! She looks rough but she has a running engine, frame is solid, good tires, and it just has the cool element to it. I don't plan to do a full restore, just get it running properly, safe, and then work out the rest as the wife allows. I'll be using this thread for questions and as a way to document my progress.

Things that will need done:
- Brakes/lines
- Carb rebuild
- Floor pans
- Clean, clean, clean (been in a barn for 7 years)
- Water pump
- Radiator
- Strip and undercoat just about everything
- Light wiring
- Door latches fix
- Wiper motors
- General tune up
- Much more I'm sure

Hope to hear from you guys as my many questions arise!


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post #2 of 73 Old 11-11-2014, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
KirklandXJ
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Edit: sorry, pictures didn't show up the first time! They're in there now.
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post #3 of 73 Old 11-11-2014, 11:48 AM
owntmeal4life
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Know that feeling look forward to your build
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post #4 of 73 Old 11-13-2014, 06:09 AM Thread Starter
KirklandXJ
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Quick update: Found my donor truck at my local junkyard! '63 Gladiator actually in pretty dang good shape. Better than mine in most regards.

Found the root cause of the door latch issues. There's three springs in each latch, of which I only had 2 operative out of a total of six. The first picture is of mine and the other is of the junkyard latch. You can see the wound piece of steel at the top of the latch which is where the handle button presses. It snapped and was like that in both so I'll have to go back and get one of them from the junkyard because one of mine is so seized up and bent I'd rather just get another that I know is good.

Other than that, I began cleaning out the interior. Started with the headliner as it was drooping and I could feel that there was a bunch of loose stuff up there. This is what I found! Pretty nasty. Seemed like something was living up there in its time in the barn. There was an outrageous number of acorns in the cab so I assume squirrels. I'll be taking a coarse wire drill brush to the roof, relining it with maybe some Reflectix, cleaning up the headliner, and putting it back in.

I've torn out the flooring as well but haven't gotten the bench out of the cab yet because I can't get the danged seatbelts through the bench. Seatbelt bolts are pretty rusted into place and aren't really budging.

Anyone got any tips to get the seatbelts through the bench so I can get it out and evaluate the floorpans a little better?
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post #5 of 73 Old 11-13-2014, 07:56 AM
owntmeal4life
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Could always cut and replace em with some non weathered ones
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post #6 of 73 Old 11-13-2014, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
KirklandXJ
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True. I like that idea actually. Wonder how hard it'd be to re-thread the webbing through the buckle again. Might need to get creative with sewing the ends of them or finding an alternative way to "hem" the ends.
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post #7 of 73 Old 11-13-2014, 02:45 PM
owntmeal4life
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirklandXJ
True. I like that idea actually. Wonder how hard it'd be to re-thread the webbing through the buckle again. Might need to get creative with sewing the ends of them or finding an alternative way to "hem" the ends.
They make replacement kits just need to get em unbolted might just need to spray with a penetrating oil but I assume you need the seatbelts out of the way to remove the seat
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post #8 of 73 Old 11-14-2014, 06:24 AM Thread Starter
KirklandXJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by owntmeal4life View Post
They make replacement kits just need to get em unbolted might just need to spray with a penetrating oil but I assume you need the seatbelts out of the way to remove the seat
Yeah, on the underside of the cab, there's a steel plate used for strength of which a square nut is welded onto it. That's the nut that the seatbelt bolt threads into, however the driver side steel plate has become dislodged from the cab (thank you rust) so it just spins when I attempt to hit it with an impact driver. Really I just need to get a buddy over to the house and give a hand. Even PB blaster is having a tough time with the rust.

In other news, I've got the rusty rear bumper off as well as the roof interior wire brushed and cleaned up. Headliner will be going in soon. Does anyone know if the Gladiators have the same bumper mounting/dimensions as the J2000's? Seems like the gladiator parts are better with J2000's than J10's are. I'm going to be exploring bumper easy bumper replacement options. Even entertaining the thought of the bumperette style (if I can find the truck version online). Athough the CJ ones may work fine too.

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post #9 of 73 Old 11-17-2014, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
KirklandXJ
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Past couple days have been pretty productive. Got the door latches fixed, roof prepped for insulation, fuel tank drained and pulled, and the bench out. PB blaster finally pulled through on that one. Fuel tank and hoses/lines will most definitely need replaced. The nasty fuel wreaked havoc on those components as it sat for years. Floor pans have seen some half-hearted repairs that didnt last. Once the truck is running, I'll source a welder to do the pans. Check out what was hanging inside the fuel tank!
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post #10 of 73 Old 11-17-2014, 10:17 PM
owntmeal4life
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Damn nasty amazing what 40 years will do to a tank
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post #11 of 73 Old 11-18-2014, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Roof insulation in. Waiting on warmer weather to apply white vinyl spray paint to headliner and visors before reinstalling them. The blue lines are double sided duct tape that will help hold the sagging headliner up.

Heres a question: the OEM fuel tank has what appears to be 4 vent nipples but BJ's only has one. Since the fuel sending unit only has a pickup line, is one of the 4 OEM lines a return line? Does it need one? Anyone have any info on the four OEM lines on these J trucks?

Edit: It actually looks like the replacement sending units have a pickup and return line so may be its not too big a deal that the aftermarket tank only has one vent. Either way can anyone speak to the OEM lines?
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post #12 of 73 Old 11-19-2014, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Now wondering if since it's carbureted it doesn't need a return line and all 4 may actually be vent hoses. This '72 Wagoneer diagram seems to suggest that as well...

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post #13 of 73 Old 11-20-2014, 11:52 AM
CSP
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One is the vent for allowing air out when you fill the tank.

The other three act as vents along with the charcoal canister that allow air back into the tank as fuel is consumed. Without them, a vacuum would be created in the tank that the fuel pump would be working against. There are three just to allow at least one to be clear of fuel when driving at off-angles.

I'd be on the phone with BJs asking why there aren't at least two nipples.
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post #14 of 73 Old 11-20-2014, 01:49 PM
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what CSP said.

Obviously the big hole is the filler neck. The next biggest port (on the far corner in your pic) is the breather tube so it doesnt burp gas back at you when you fill it up. The other small lines as mentioned are for the charcoal canister. there was not a return line on the early 70's rigs. The later models did, indeed, have a fuel return line. I'm not sure on the J trucks, but the wags have a little check valve up in the fender well.

The good thing about poly tanks is you can simply drill a hole and install a bung....well, you can do that on steel tanks as well.

-Andrew

Illegitimi Non Carborundum


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post #15 of 73 Old 11-20-2014, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
KirklandXJ
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Didn't realize the truck has a canister. There's a cover in the bed that covers up the lines. I'm working on getting it off (rusty, stripped bolts) so I can see what all is going on behind there. Many thanks for the responses.

Got my repair manual on order which should help clear up Wagon vs J-truck differences as well! I think additional nipples will be the necessary solution.
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