Industrial cooler roflmao!
This is my proven but pricey formula.
1. Tune engine to proper mix with a wideband 02. (the non datalogging ones are under 200 bucks now)
2. Set timing where runs the best
3. Stock water pump and pulley speed (no underdrives needed, cant tell you how many people try to tell me to slow th water flow down etc,.ugh were not road racing at 7k rpm)
4. Chemically flush the block using a good flush agent and run it for 4 days then connect the garden hose to the heater lines and flush it out until clear water runs out.
5. A good aluminum cored radiator, you are looking for staggered cores meaning the rows of tubes are not unline with each other to maximize airflow through the unit. The thinner the core the more air will pass through it & the more effective the fans will be. The idea is wider the tubes (looking front to back) and more of them spaced across the core ie tubes per inch the more btu the unit will disperse. 1 inch tubes are good. My 2 row aluminum core has 40 more tubes across the core and being one inch vs. 1/2 inch the cooling capacity is massively increased over the brass 3 row I removed. The 3 row was clean and replaced a few years ago. The thing to keep in mind is that all cores are not equal. I have compared 2 four row units from two different companies for the same car and had one be higher capacity than the other. (442 olds)
Bottom line is if the machanicals are in order and it runs hot, get a better radiator. Part# MHT 433581 this is the unit I run now and with 100 deg temps AC, cruising 70 to 80 My temps stay at 185 with the fan off. also when I pull off the freeway now the e fan kicks on and keeps temps at 180 to 185 no more heat soaking that takes four miles of doing <50 to dissipate.
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