I'm looking for some help with my 70 Wagoneer. It's has a Buick Dauntless 350, with 2-barrel Rochester. It's a great story how I got it, but I've been tinkering on it since July, and it's still just not right. I just want to be able to enjoy driving around town and take it on a few road trips! Here's a list of things I'm trying to work through.
1. I just can't get it running smooth. The first weekend I had it here in Milwaukee, I did a complete tune-up. I'm not a great mechanic, but know how to turn a wrench pretty well. Here's what I did on the tune-up:
b. plug wires
c. distributor cap
d. points and condenser and new ignition coil
e. fuel filter
f. synthetic oil change
g. new vacuum lines
h. new PCV valve
I found the original service manual on eBay, bought that and took working on it. After I replaced all the parts, I set the timing to 4 TDC per the manual, the dwell at 30 degrees, and the idle at 750rpm. It was running a bit rough, so I pulled the carburetor and it was absolutely filthy. It looked like it had been worked on a lot so I bought and installed a rebuilt carburetor from the Carburetor Exchange, then tuned it and set the choke per recommendation. One thing I'm not positive about is the routing of the vacuum lines. I bought the Rochester manual hoping it would clearly lay out the diagram, but it doesn't. Either does the shop manual. Maybe I can't follow it well enough.
After all of this, it runs great at idle, but it backfires when I get around 40 mph, and it really backfires and chugs at 60 mph. What is going on?!?
There's a Jeep guy at my local Napa that recommended advancing the timing to something like 16 TDC and go from there. Does that seem excessive? His explanation seemed to make sense, just looking for another opinion.
2. The wiper fluid reservoir is missing. Any suggestions on where I could find one? I can't even seem to find what it looks like.
3. I replaced the heater core, but the blower motor is quite noisy, and doesn't blow the warm air very well on defrost. I live in Milwaukee, and definitely need the defrosters to work!
4. The tailgate window had an 8-point 3/8" socket jammed on the mechanism to raise and lower the window with a 1/4" ratchet. I plan on using the window and tailgate often, so really want this to work. I bought a new crank, installed it, and the gears stripped after 6 uses. JUNK! Any suggestions?
Thanks for any help, and if you'd like me to post any photos or the story on how I got it, I'd be more than glad to share.
What vacuum controlled devices do you have on a '70? I know what's present on a '72, but not a '70. Most cars of this age do not need a vacuum diagram, because the vacuum connections are very simple. Typically you only have PCV, distributor advance, and power brakes.
Wiper fluid reservoir was a bag hanging from the inner fender. Red, with a Jeep logo. Purest unobtainium. Again, the FSM will cover this.
You'll have to use some ingenuity with the defrost. Typically the air ducts are full of debris on these cars. Take the floor vents out and the cowl vent off and use a vacuum to clean out the ducts. Often the heater box is full of debris, but if you replaced the core, you've been in there. Re the motor, you could maybe upgrade the motor with a newer, stronger motor - this is a common upgrade for CJ Jeeps, but you'll have to figure out an approach for the Wagoneer. I expect the heater parts are more-or-less unchanged for newer Wagoneers, so you may be able to get a blower motor from a newer parts car - try here: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=75
On the tailgate, had you considered that the mechanism is so stiff that you are stripping out the handle with your super-strength? I'd clean and lube the regulator and glass tracks, regardless.
Rosental1- thanks for the suggestion! Once I have this vacuum line routing figured out, that's my next step.
timgr- I never thought about testing the compression. The motor has 85,000 original miles on it, so I didn't think this would be an issue. Based on that info, would you still do the compression test?
I don't have a vacuum gauge, and thank you very much for that link. Lots of useful information on there.
Yep, it's a factory service manual. Actually, I found it for half price of what BJ's is selling their reproduction, and it's in great shape. Lucky, I guess. Maybe I'm looking over the vacuum routing, but I just can't put my finger on it. I believe I only have PCV, distributor advance and brakes. I attached some photos on what I have on the carburetor. I put the distributor advance vacuum hose right in the front between the low-idle screws. The passenger side port to the choke diaphragm, and the back port to the driver side diaphragm. The large back port goes to the PCV valve. I also included a photo of something that looks like vacuum hoses should go on it, but I don't know what it is.
Wiper fluid reservoir. Got it. I think I found one. And I'll work on more cleaning/vacuuming on the defrost. The suggestion of going to the larger motor s a great idea, and will tackle that once I have it running well and the tailgate fixed. I will clean and lube the glass mechanism, but it didn't seem that I was forcing things too much. And now I have a stripped out crank and have to buy another one.
The alternator bracket recently cracked. (see photo) Anyone know where to get this part or have one? I'll be posting this question on another thread as well.
A compression test will help diagnose a burnt valve. It's good to track the compression numbers on an old car, so you know where you are. Compression tester is cheap, as is a vacuum gauge.
The device in the manifold is a spark CTO. It should be described in your manual. Having it disconnected should not affect drivability - it's an emissions device. Connect the distributor to manifold vacuum.
Vacuum from the carburetor base is likely "ported" vacuum. If so, it will go to near zero at idle. This is another thing you can test with a vacuum gauge.
Your pictures are a little myopic to see what's happening. I can't see where the hose above the PCV connection on the carb base goes. The choke pull-off is in your manual, and it's connection should be too. The connection you show is reasonable, and it should not matter once the car warms up, as long as there are no leaks.
Thanks so much for all the advise. I actually purchased the Pertronix electronic ignition, and it runs GREAT! I must not have had something right with the points. Dwell was at 30 degrees and points gap was at .016 per spec. Ah well, not going to think about it too much. Again, it runs GREAT! And plugs are a nice toasty brown. Small victories in life, gang. Small victories.