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Unread 03-24-2013, 09:37 PM   #31
Eric1080
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i like how the engine builder specified high zinc oil multiple times. perhaps i should change my oil...... if its lasted for 30k since the rebuild with rotella then it should be fine. op- your setup on your 401 is very similar to mine. ive used 87 octane when $$$ was short with no pinging.

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Unread 03-24-2013, 09:55 PM   #32
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric1080
i like how the engine builder specified high zinc oil multiple times. perhaps i should change my oil...... if its lasted for 30k since the rebuild with rotella then it should be fine. op- your setup on your 401 is very similar to mine. ive used 87 octane when $$$ was short with no pinging.
I am one to take as many precautions because I am hard on my equipment. I'll use additives.

Glad to hear I might be able to use low grade fuel in a pinch.

How do you like your set up on the road, passing, merging?
Ever mess with any Hondas or young punks around town?
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 03-25-2013, 07:01 PM   #33
Eric1080
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with 4.10s and 35s it was excellent in NY where the elevation was 1500 feet. here in CO i live at 9k and lost a lot of power. i might switch to 33s so i can get it back. it will still move though. i raced a civic (one of those gay ones that was "Upgraded" and beat him to the top with a full load of firewood. he looked suprised
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Unread 03-25-2013, 07:01 PM   #34
Eric1080
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u using manifolds or headers?
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Unread 03-25-2013, 07:04 PM   #35
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric1080
u using manifolds or headers?
Manifolds.
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 03-25-2013, 07:06 PM   #36
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric1080
with 4.10s and 35s it was excellent in NY where the elevation was 1500 feet. here in CO i live at 9k and lost a lot of power. i might switch to 33s so i can get it back. it will still move though. i raced a civic (one of those gay ones that was "Upgraded" and beat him to the top with a full load of firewood. he looked suprised
I want a few minor victories like that. And something that might surprise some of the old guys with Hot Rods where I'm from.
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 03-27-2013, 06:45 PM   #37
28uptwo
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I was running 425 Hp with a 401. We had to do a lot of head work on the stock heads. I had the same build that you have but, Holley 750 double pumper, Torker II intake, 510 lift on cam and headers. I was into mud racing at the time. I could run 7100 RPMs for about 2 mins before it would start to get warm. I ran the motor for over 5 years in the races then put it in a 71 Javalin. drove it for 2 years and sold it. I wish I had another one. Fun motors.
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Unread 03-27-2013, 07:48 PM   #38
Saul32
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with your stock manifolds, did you port em at the bend or do u keep em completely stock?
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Unread 03-27-2013, 08:01 PM   #39
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 28uptwo
I was running 425 Hp with a 401. We had to do a lot of head work on the stock heads. I had the same build that you have but, Holley 750 double pumper, Torker II intake, 510 lift on cam and headers. I was into mud racing at the time. I could run 7100 RPMs for about 2 mins before it would start to get warm. I ran the motor for over 5 years in the races then put it in a 71 Javalin. drove it for 2 years and sold it. I wish I had another one. Fun motors.
The heads only had a 5-angle valve job with mild porting. I don't know if the valves were replaced with bigger ones or what else was done with them.

Your engine sounded like a beast. 7,100 rpm is supposed to be murder for the 401's. I'm starting to think about adding a mild shot of nitrous to achieve those kind of numbers without having to tear into it again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Saul32
with your stock manifolds, did you port em at the bend or do u keep em completely stock?
Nope those things are stock. Plugged air tubes and all. I have wanted to throw headers on but people seem to steer me away from them unless I can afford $600 Doug Thornleys.

I am about to have a new exhaust made from the y-pipe back and still can't decide how to go about that.
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 03-27-2013, 08:08 PM   #40
Saul32
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Yeah I was also thinking of doing the Thorleys but that price yikes!!
I read a thread somewhere and somebody mentioned getting better performance out of the stock manifolds by porting em at one of the bends. I'll see if I can find it and send you the link.
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Unread 03-27-2013, 08:33 PM   #41
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saul32
Yeah I was also thinking of doing the Thorleys but that price yikes!!
I read a thread somewhere and somebody mentioned getting better performance out of the stock manifolds by porting em at one of the bends. I'll see if I can find it and send you the link.
That would be appreciated.
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 03-27-2013, 08:48 PM   #42
Saul32
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"The only headers that still use the factory y-pipe were the Edelbrock, and they have been discontinued. IMO the use of the stock y-pipe negates the flow of any headers, the y-pipe is the bottle neck even in the stock system. You would be better off porting the first bend in the stock manifolds and open up after the y-pipe to a 2-1/2" exhaust."
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Unread 03-27-2013, 08:51 PM   #43
Saul32
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Seems like its worth a try.. save yourself $600.
What would you use to do it tho?
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Unread 03-27-2013, 09:29 PM   #44
revelc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saul32
Seems like its worth a try.. save yourself $600.
What would you use to do it tho?
Well I don't know what he means by "The first bend"
But using an air grinder with a carbide bit will make short work of anything.
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 03-28-2013, 08:52 AM   #45
Eric1080
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a muffler shop custom bent mine with 2 1/2" down- straight back and joining both sides together by the transfercase then dynomax 3" muffler to single 3" pipe out. its not mandrel bent but its out of the way and seems to flow well
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