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7179CJ5 06-23-2013 08:53 AM

1990 Wagoneer
Hello, I'm not new to Jeep Forum, I have a CJ, but I am looking to purchase a 1990 Grand Wagoneer. I've tried to do my homework but thought I might get some feed back from this forum on this.
It is a 1990 Grand Wagoneer 360 engine with a lot of miles, pushing 200,000
It's been in storage for the past 7 years the body is in really good shape. He is asking 3000.00 is that too much to pay? Thanks for the input.

RockRollin 06-23-2013 10:45 AM

If its running and drivable, no engine noises, all interior electrics working (windows, locks, rear window) not a bad price. Its hard to place a market value on these rigs. Those that are enthusiasts wouldn't part with them save exception of ridiculous offer. Others see no value in having a high maintenance, low mileage vehicle. If you have a hankerin for a FSJ, the drive train seems solid, get it and never look back:thumbsup:

7179CJ5 06-23-2013 10:59 AM

Thank you for the advice/info, I have a 79 CJ5 that I is a weekend/joy ride, however, I bring my tool box every time I take it out. I hope the Wagoneer isn't like that. I wish that I could post some pictures it was on Craigslist but not sure how I can do this. Thank you and more comments are welcomed since I will be taking a look at it this afternoon.

RockRollin 06-23-2013 12:14 PM

Its a Jeep, bring the tools:cool:. If its the gold one in Houma, it looks pretty decent. There are many things you can do to raise the reliability, but you have to think, it didn't go 208000mi by being broke down all the time. I'll be leaving fri for a 1800mi round trip with my 90 with 165, 000mi. I'll bring the toolbox, but just to be prepared.

7179CJ5 06-23-2013 12:25 PM

Hey yes RockRollin it is the one in Houma, I'm meeting with the guy this after noon to look at it. It seems pretty solid just has a lot of miles on it. My CJ5 has the 6i and as you said will last well onto the 100's if taken care of, just don't know how well the PO took care of this one.

Dngrs1 06-23-2013 02:51 PM

This one?

7179CJ5 06-23-2013 03:24 PM


Originally Posted by Dngrs1

Yep that's the one, a lot of miles, body looks good what do you think?

Dngrs1 06-23-2013 03:37 PM

Does actually look pretty good. I don't live in the area so I am not familiar with going prices/ values. However, Hurricane Katrina comes to mind...............

RockRollin 06-23-2013 03:50 PM


Originally Posted by Dngrs1 (Post 15597724)
Does actually look pretty good. I don't live in the area so I am not familiar with going prices/ values. However, Hurricane Katrina comes to mind...............

Good call

7179CJ5 06-23-2013 04:16 PM

Yeah thinking the same thing, anything I should look for in particular that may let me know that it was flooded? If it went under water, sure all the electronics wouldn't work or would it?

super98lsc 06-23-2013 06:13 PM

check the wiring salt water will eat it. It does not appear it was a flood car from the photos, carpet is really clean, watch for signs of mold. That's a nice rig especially for that price. Imho. I gave 5k for mine and have sunk 9k in parts into it in the past year. Has 140k on it

olliehopnoodle 06-23-2013 09:03 PM

The first 3k is easy. If it has sat for 7 years it will give you some fits here and there, expect that. I love the color.

super98lsc 06-24-2013 09:05 AM

Ollie is dead on the money, mine sat for 6 years with new leather seats, paint, transfer case, trans, engine rebuild already done. By sat it was driven only 2k miles during that six years. I have all the maintenance records and mileage is documented via state inspections etc. When you get it I would replace the brake calipers/lines/master cylinder right away. All the rubber lines/seals will be leaking or blow out soon if they have not already. The good thing is the calipers are cheap like 15.00 each so swapping them and wheel cylinders is <100 bucks total and well worth the safety. The next item will be the fuel pump and all rubber portions of the lines. The Ethanol in the fuel over the past 12+ years will have taken its toll and the lines will crack and start leaking quickly. Not hard to to and cheap insurance. Other than that run some Marvel through the motor, seafoam in the tank and give it a good run change the oil a couple times in the first 2-3k and she should be good to go. Its a really clean truck, nice color and body looks really straight and rust free.

7179CJ5 06-24-2013 09:35 AM

Thank you guys for all of the information. I did get a chance to test drive it yesterday. It handled really good and drove real smooth. He did do something that seemed strange. He disconnected the front driveshaft and removed it completely. He said that he did that to get better gas mileage on a long trip he went on. Is this true , can someone clear this up for me.
They did have a few leaks as was mentioned in the previous post. Rubber brake line. The back differential, and one small one coming somewhere from the front of the engine. Other than that all the electrical works fine. And he did buy it from someone out of state after Hurricane Katrina hit New Orleans.

super98lsc 06-24-2013 09:55 AM

I would want him to re-install the front drive shaft and test that 4x4. The 1990 has an NP229 T-case which uses a viscous coupling to divide power between the front and rear axles. They can fail and are hard to find replacements for as well as expensive. Most people I have read about end up swapping in another case. Mine was replaced by the previous owner with a Jasper NP229 that works flawlessly. The front hubs on my truck are converted to manual locking hubs. Stock they were vacuum operated by the dash switch when you selected the 4wd. (if you do a manual hub swap then accidently engage the 4x4 without locking the hubs first = toasted viscous coupler) Anyhow with the hubs unlocked (either manually or in 2wd mode) the front differential is / should not be turning. When the T-Case is in 2wd the front drive shaft is also disengaged. This all said there would be ZERO advantage of removing the front shaft. Other than saving 25lbs of weight ?!?!??!..

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