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03-16-2010, 10:11 PM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southern WI
Posts: 241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianBFD
Thanks for posting the pics
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You're welcome.  It was a little harder because I'm on my iPod touch lol
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03-17-2010, 10:18 AM
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#17
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Here, hold my beer...
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Coastal, Alabama
Posts: 361
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I'll get the first 3 digits of the VIN and post them this evening. I was saying 79 because of an tag receipt I found in it said it was a 79.
__________________
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No-Doors
...I will be tied up the 13th and 14th...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKABOB
I am aroused.
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03-17-2010, 05:45 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Clemson, SC
Posts: 38
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It looks like it's in pretty good shape. Take good care of it.
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03-18-2010, 04:04 PM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: michigan
Posts: 385
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looks like my junk just 2 dr. and mine has an older dash. (cuz it is a 68)
good lookin rig, enjoy..
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03-18-2010, 06:42 PM
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#20
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Here, hold my beer...
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Coastal, Alabama
Posts: 361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BJ's Off-Road
Not bad...
By the way, it is a 1978 or earlier. It has the earlier grille and bumper, which would explain the 401.
What is the VIN number (or the first 3 digits) and I'll tell you exactly what year it is.
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The first 3 digits appear to J8A
It' a little hard to tell, the sticker thing in the door jamb is pretty chewed up.
__________________
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No-Doors
...I will be tied up the 13th and 14th...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKABOB
I am aroused.
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03-18-2010, 06:46 PM
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#21
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: 40° 3'42.36"N 112° 2'16.73"W, Utah
Posts: 6,081
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There will also be a stamped plate on the dash directly behind the windshield on the driver's side (at least there should be...).
__________________
1997 ZJ 5.2 Orvis, Baby!
1953 Willys M100 trailer Tagalong
________________
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03-18-2010, 06:51 PM
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#22
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Salem, WI
Posts: 272
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Looks like you got yourself a new fish-truck! (I can say that because I see you are from upper Midwest so you'll understand....  )
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03-18-2010, 06:54 PM
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#23
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Salem, WI
Posts: 272
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Quote:
The first 3 digits appear to J8A
It' a little hard to tell, the sticker thing in the door jamb is pretty chewed up.
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You can actually decode it yourself if you'd like, kind of interesting to learn the vehicle history. Courtesy of Edmunds.com:
World Manufacturer Identifier
The first three digits make up the World Manufacturer Identifier (WMI)
- Position one represents the nation of origin, or the final point of assembly. For instance, cars made in the U.S. start with 1,4 or 5, Canada is 2, Mexico is 3, Japan is J, Korea is K, England is S, and Germany is W.
- Position two tells you about the manufacturer. For example, A is for Audi, B is for BMW, L is for Lincoln and N is for Nissan.
- Position three indicates the vehicle's type or manufacturing division. For example, 1G1 represents Chevrolet passenger cars; 1G2, Pontiac passenger cars; and 1GC, Chevrolet trucks.
Vehicle Descriptor Section
Digits 4 through 9 make up the Vehicle Descriptor Section (VDS).
- Positions four through eight tell you about the car, such as the model, body type, restraint system, transmission type, and engine code.
- Position nine, the "check" digit, is used to detect invalid VINs based on a mathematical formula that was developed by the Department of Transportation.
Vehicle Identifier Section
Digits 10 through 17 make up the Vehicle Identifier Section (VIS).
- Position 10 indicates the model year. The letters from B-X correspond to the model years starting with 1981, with X bringing up the rear with 2000; model years 2001 and up are indicated with numbers, starting with the number 1. There is no I, O, Q, U or Z. Confusing? Here's a list of the model years: B=81, C=82, D=83, E=84, F=85, G=86, H=87, J=88, K=89, L=90, M=91, N=92, P=93, R=94, S=95, T=96, V=97, W=98, X=99, Y=00, 1=01, 2=02, 3=03, 4=04, 5=05, 6=06, 7=07, 8=08, 9=09, A=2010.
- The letter or number in position 11 indicates the manufacturing plant in which the vehicle was assembled. Each automaker has its own set of plant codes.
- The last 6 digits (positions 12 through 17) are the production sequence numbers. This is the number given to your car on the assembly line.
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03-18-2010, 09:48 PM
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#24
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Posts: 1,351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepGuyBrian
You can actually decode it yourself if you'd like, kind of interesting to learn the vehicle history. Courtesy of Edmunds.com:
World Manufacturer Identifier
The first three digits make up the World Manufacturer Identifier (WMI)
- Position one represents the nation of origin, or the final point of assembly. For instance, cars made in the U.S. start with 1,4 or 5, Canada is 2, Mexico is 3, Japan is J, Korea is K, England is S, and Germany is W.
- Position two tells you about the manufacturer. For example, A is for Audi, B is for BMW, L is for Lincoln and N is for Nissan.
- Position three indicates the vehicle's type or manufacturing division. For example, 1G1 represents Chevrolet passenger cars; 1G2, Pontiac passenger cars; and 1GC, Chevrolet trucks.
Vehicle Descriptor Section
Digits 4 through 9 make up the Vehicle Descriptor Section (VDS).
- Positions four through eight tell you about the car, such as the model, body type, restraint system, transmission type, and engine code.
- Position nine, the "check" digit, is used to detect invalid VINs based on a mathematical formula that was developed by the Department of Transportation.
Vehicle Identifier Section
Digits 10 through 17 make up the Vehicle Identifier Section (VIS).
- Position 10 indicates the model year. The letters from B-X correspond to the model years starting with 1981, with X bringing up the rear with 2000; model years 2001 and up are indicated with numbers, starting with the number 1. There is no I, O, Q, U or Z. Confusing? Here's a list of the model years: B=81, C=82, D=83, E=84, F=85, G=86, H=87, J=88, K=89, L=90, M=91, N=92, P=93, R=94, S=95, T=96, V=97, W=98, X=99, Y=00, 1=01, 2=02, 3=03, 4=04, 5=05, 6=06, 7=07, 8=08, 9=09, A=2010.
- The letter or number in position 11 indicates the manufacturing plant in which the vehicle was assembled. Each automaker has its own set of plant codes.
- The last 6 digits (positions 12 through 17) are the production sequence numbers. This is the number given to your car on the assembly line.
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Just ignore his advice, it would only be good for 1981 and up vehicles... unless of course you think your Jeep was made in Japan...
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03-18-2010, 09:57 PM
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#25
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Posts: 1,351
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Now, I will help decode your vin properly....
J - Jeep Corp
8 - 1978
A - 1972-1979 Left Hand Drive Built in Toledo (not Japan...)
The rest I'll guess at:
17 - 2-door Cherokee Chief 109" Wheelbase
N - 6200# GVW
Z - 401 V8 4bbl
The rest should be the serial number. So your vin should be J8A17NZ XXXXXXX
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03-20-2010, 04:09 PM
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#26
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: west Boylston, MA
Posts: 88
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looks like you got some serious mold growing on your door panels and seats. Get some simple green and a rag and clean that up. good to see another FSJ being worked on
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03-20-2010, 09:05 PM
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#27
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Here, hold my beer...
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Coastal, Alabama
Posts: 361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepGuyBrian
Looks like you got yourself a new fish-truck! (I can say that because I see you are from upper Midwest so you'll understand....  )
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Actually I'm from and still live in coastal Alabama.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BJ's Off-Road
Now, I will help decode your vin properly....
J - Jeep Corp
8 - 1978
A - 1972-1979 Left Hand Drive Built in Toledo (not Japan...)
The rest I'll guess at:
17 - 2-door Cherokee Chief 109" Wheelbase
N - 6200# GVW
Z - 401 V8 4bbl
The rest should be the serial number. So your vin should be J8A17NZ XXXXXXX
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Spot on, exactly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIX03TJ
looks like you got some serious mold growing on your door panels and seats. Get some simple green and a rag and clean that up. good to see another FSJ being worked on
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Yeah, it needs lot of love at this point, as I said before it was abandoned in the middle of a field and left.
Can anyone tell me what I need to do to go about replacing the carb?
__________________
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No-Doors
...I will be tied up the 13th and 14th...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKABOB
I am aroused.
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03-23-2010, 07:17 PM
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#28
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Vermont/Tampa
Posts: 15
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Awesome Jeep! Right price too.
You could always rebuild the existing carb, probably cheaper. As far as pulling and replacing, I'll let the subject matter experts answer. I would venture to guess that my 258 carb is a little different .
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03-23-2010, 07:21 PM
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#29
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Here, hold my beer...
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Coastal, Alabama
Posts: 361
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One problem with the rebuild idea. There's not one to rebuild.
__________________
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No-Doors
...I will be tied up the 13th and 14th...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKABOB
I am aroused.
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03-23-2010, 07:24 PM
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#30
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Vermont/Tampa
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianBFD
One problem with the rebuild idea. There's not one to rebuild.
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Yeah, I suppose you are right... lol, I must have missed that part.
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