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Unread 09-10-2014, 09:41 AM   #1
hillbilly51
Registered User
1988 MJ Comanche 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: georgia
Posts: 62
New Front Parking Cable 88 Comanche Chief

Well...
I finally got around to replacing the front parking brake cable yesterday on my 88 Comanche Chief.

I thought I'd give a description that might help somebody in the future.
Changing the cable was pretty easy.
Getting to the cable was another thing.

First off I slid the seat as far forward as it would go and then removed the (4) nuts that secure the bench seat on the drivers side.
(13mm deep well socket and ratchet).

I was then able to lift the end of the seat about 10 inches and support it on 2 pieces of 2x4 wood.
I simply laid the wood on the transmission hump at the rear of the seat and let the seat rest on that.
I had planned on removing the seat completely and finish removing the carpet but one of the mounting nuts on the passenger's side was badly rusted.
There weren't any flats remaining on the hex nut......just a short round nut that I couldn't get off, or rather didn't have time to fool with right now.
I dulled a chisel trying to cut the side from the nut before I gave up.
I'll get to that later.

I finally cut all of the carpet (and padding) that I could reach under and along the back of the seat and removed it.

The cable sheath is secured at two places in the cab.
The first is a metal strap about 12" back from the pedal, and the second is a plastic strap just under the edge of the seat.
Both have to be removed to replace the cable.
I made new straps out of galvanized plumbers strapping.

To get the plastic rocker panel cover off the bottom of the door opening so that I could remove the cable I had to remove the plastic panel (where the speaker mounts) behind the driver.
This is the panel where the shoulder strap for the seat belt attaches to the body of the truck.

There is (1) phillips head screw under a plastic plug at the top of the rear "speaker" panel and (4) hex nuts on the rear cab wall that have to come out.
The "speaker" panel also has (2) tabs at it's bottom that slide over the rocker panel cover to hold it in place at the bottom.

I removed the seat belt mounting bolt(s) as required so that I could get the "speaker panel" out of the way and allow more room to work.
I did not remove the auto seat belt adjuster reel from the truck.
I simply removed the trim where the seat belt passes thru the "speaker" panel and pulled enough slack off the reel to allow movement of the panel.

I had a problem removing the rubber bushing where the cable enters the cab (at the rear).
From under the truck I pulled the old broken cable out it's sheath and then cut the end off the sheath at the foot pedal with a bolt cutter.

I then pulled the cable sheath out from under the truck and
grabbed the bushing with pliers and pulled it out.
When installing the new cable I used some soap on the new bushing and was able to push it in by hand.
The new cable came with a bushing already installed.

To remove (3) the old cable mounting tabs (the tabs that lock the cable into place at each end), I simply used a thin, narrow screwdriver to bend them backward until they broke and then I could pull the cable end out of the hole.
That way will save you the trouble of trying to compress the tabs with pliers so that you can pull the cable sheath out.
Same process at each end of the cable sheath.

I slid the cable thru the hole in the cab from the bottom of the truck, and then hooked it up to the pedal mechanism.
I then routed the cable under the seat and secured it to the floorboard.
Under the truck, I then slid the new cable into the mounting hole and snapped it into place.
I hooked up the new cable to the equalizer and using my existing hex nuts (no new ones came with cable) I put tension the cable.

I lowered the seat and aligned it on the (4) studs and bolted it back in place.
Make sure that the new cable is not pinched under the seat support as you lower the seat.

I then jacked both rear wheels off the concrete so that I could spin the rear wheels by hand.
I then adjusted the tension on the cable so that I had about 3/4 pedal travel on the parking brake.
I then released the brake and spun the rear wheels to make sure that the parking brake wasn't "dragging" the rear brake drums when it is released.

I now have a parking brake again.

I took the time to repair any rust that was under and behind the seat.
I've got about 3/4 of the floorboard done.

I would have been easier if I removed the seat entirely, but it wasn't that bad.

Sorry this is so long.
I hope this helps someone
steve

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