No matter where you go, dunking the engine is pretty much mandatory before any block work is done. Boring the cylinders usually runs $15-$30 for each cylinder, debating on the shop you're going to and the crank polishing sounds really high. When I was pricing out a stroker for my old Cherokee, I was looking around $650 for everything and assembly ($850 with port work). This was dunking the block and head, magnaflux the head and block, boring all 6 cylinders, valve job, head reassembly, putting in all new cam bearings, new crank bearings and polishing the crank, weight matching the rods, new wrist pins, all new freeze plugs, balancing the whole assembly, reassembly, and painting. Basically all I had to do was slap on the accessories and manifolds and I was good to go. The port work was going to be opening up the intake and exhaust runners, port matching to the manifolds, unshrouding the valves as much as possible, matching the combustion chamber on the head to the engine and deburring anything he can find with a sharp edge. All I had to do for that price was supply the camshaft.
[B]1986 Jeep Comanche 126000+ miles[/B]
Long Bed, Chevy 350 TPI (5.7L V8), AX15, NP231
Roll Bar, 15/38.5R16.5 Ground Hawgs, Bastard lift (Custom 3-link long arm system, 4.5" Rusty's front springs w/ 1.75" spacers and 6.5" RC shocks, SOA rear), Dana 60HP/Sterling 10.25, 4.10's, Recessed winch, more mods to come...
[B]1992 Jeep Comanche 174000+ miles[/B]
Short Bed, 4.0L I6 HO, AX15, NP231
In the process of doing a frame up restoration.
[B]1990 Jeep Cherokee XJ 207774 miles[/B]
4.0L I6, AW4, NP231. Tom Woods SYE and Drive Shaft, Rusty's 8.0" Long Arm Suspension Lift, 36/13.5R15 Super Swamper IROK's, Dana 30 Front, Tube Diff Guard, Dana 44 Rear, 4.56 gears, Ox Locker, disc brake conversion