to much for machine work? -
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post #1 of 6 Old 02-28-2012, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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1990 MJ Comanche 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: woodbury
Posts: 348
to much for machine work?

The 88 block i am going to use for the build needs to have the usual machining.

A local shop that i am trying out says it is going to run me about $625 for the block work and $325 for the crank work.
here is how they break it down.

cleaning, new freeze plugs and cam bearings-$130 (shop cleaning is mandatory)
Bore & hone- $140
head & block decking-$140
miscellaneous -$68

basic valve job & adjustment-$148

Crank & rods:
+ crank turned and polished
+ pistons removed and replaced
+ rods turned and polished
= $325
NO balancing included

Tell me what you think, I was really looking forward to this build, but the whole $1000 machine work bill has left a bad taste in my mouth.

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post #2 of 6 Old 02-28-2012, 03:26 PM
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1990 MJ Comanche 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Prescott
Posts: 11,570
Sounds like a rip to me.
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post #3 of 6 Old 02-28-2012, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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1990 MJ Comanche 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: woodbury
Posts: 348
ya, as soon as i heard what he was going to charge me for the block work, i said yaaaaa, no thanks. I am currently looking for another shop. Have several to scope out.
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post #4 of 6 Old 03-10-2012, 10:09 PM
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1984 XJ Cherokee 
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Location: mesa
Posts: 1,458
Sounds about right. Take that stuff apart yourself. Machine shop locally wants similar price to bore and hone my 350 for my xj. I getting it done for about 325 by disassembling my own engine.

84 xj 350tbi, sm465, 203/205, 60/70. links and other junk.
what size sawzall blades does it take to fit 40's?
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post #5 of 6 Old 03-10-2012, 10:58 PM
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1986 MJ Comanche 
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Location: Wrightstown, New Jersey
Posts: 312
No matter where you go, dunking the engine is pretty much mandatory before any block work is done. Boring the cylinders usually runs $15-$30 for each cylinder, debating on the shop you're going to and the crank polishing sounds really high. When I was pricing out a stroker for my old Cherokee, I was looking around $650 for everything and assembly ($850 with port work). This was dunking the block and head, magnaflux the head and block, boring all 6 cylinders, valve job, head reassembly, putting in all new cam bearings, new crank bearings and polishing the crank, weight matching the rods, new wrist pins, all new freeze plugs, balancing the whole assembly, reassembly, and painting. Basically all I had to do was slap on the accessories and manifolds and I was good to go. The port work was going to be opening up the intake and exhaust runners, port matching to the manifolds, unshrouding the valves as much as possible, matching the combustion chamber on the head to the engine and deburring anything he can find with a sharp edge. All I had to do for that price was supply the camshaft.

1986 Jeep Comanche 126000+ miles
Long Bed, Chevy 350 TPI (5.7L V8), AX15, NP231
Roll Bar, 15/38.5R16.5 Ground Hawgs, Bastard lift (Custom 3-link long arm system, 4.5" Rusty's front springs w/ 1.75" spacers and 6.5" RC shocks, SOA rear), Dana 60HP/Sterling 10.25, 4.10's, Recessed winch, more mods to come...

1992 Jeep Comanche 174000+ miles
Short Bed, 4.0L I6 HO, AX15, NP231
In the process of doing a frame up restoration.

1990 Jeep Cherokee XJ 207774 miles
4.0L I6, AW4, NP231. Tom Woods SYE and Drive Shaft, Rusty's 8.0" Long Arm Suspension Lift, 36/13.5R15 Super Swamper IROK's, Dana 30 Front, Tube Diff Guard, Dana 44 Rear, 4.56 gears, Ox Locker, disc brake conversion
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post #6 of 6 Old 03-11-2012, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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1990 MJ Comanche 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: woodbury
Posts: 348
Ya, i have found a new shop since then and they are charging about 300 bucks less than the other guy. PLUS the guy is the best in the business, 50+ years experience, he just does it for the fun of it anymore, really awesome guy. Reed performance machine. My bill once its all said and done will be between 950 and 1200, give or take 150 due to line honing and a few other things that might or might not need to be done. The biggest expense of the whole thing is the fact that i am going to have him dyno tune and test the engine once everything is all buttoned up, an extra 450 buckaroos that i would consider a really good insurance policy. Plus if it breaks he will pay to fix it, since he is the one who will decide what goes into it. If i went with the bear min I could probably have it done for as little as 550, but i want this engine to be done right and to last a long LONG time.
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