How To-Changing Oil Filter Adapter Rings
A few weeks ago I went through the lengthy process of changing the RMS and oil pan gasket in our 1988 Comanche. Turns out, after all that, the oil filter adapter was the thing that was leaking. Of course :thumbdown:
Now, spoiler alert, this isn't a complete write up off the bat. Check back though, I will update this accordingly. :thumbsup:
I've read several threads about the bolt that holds the oil filter adapter to the engine block and it seems to me that there are three different types that your Jeep could have.
1. T60 Internal Torx
2. 9/16" Internal Hex head
3. 5/8" External Hex head -'92 and prior
The first thing you need to do is disconnect the battery because they run right next to the Oil Filter Adapter(OFA) and it's just a smart thing to do. :highfive:
I then took off the oil filter, with an oil pan below to catch the drips.
Yes, I know I need new cables. :thumbdown:
You then need to grab your appropriate bolt removal tools. For my 5/8" external hex head, I used a 3/8" breaker bar with a 2' pipe through the top to break the seal. I'm guessing it was replaced before because it came out pretty easily. From there I went under the Jeep and used a ratcheting open end wrench to loosen the bolt more. Once it gets to a certain point, it will start to rotate. Just go with it, it's okay.
-For the internal bolts, people have been taking the bits out of sockets and using open ends on them. -
It's not a very long bolt, so at some point you should go back above and finish with an open end. Because the OFA rotates, this part is easy. :D
Look at that mess! :thumbdown:
This particular bolt has a beveled edge inside that keeps it in fairly snug. It is meant to come out though. I promise.
This was the culprit. OFA to engine block O-ri... Er... Flat hard piece of rubber. :laugh: It wasn't broken when I took it out, but I broke it anyhow to show how brittle it was.
Used some de-greaser to clean it up, so you can tell if it leaks of course.
I picked up this "Universal" OFA kid from NAPA last week, I don't have any pictures or part numbers, but you'll see why in a minute.
Replaced the OFA to engine block o-ring. :2thumbsup:
I then go to replace the bolt to OFA o-ring.
Well, crap! It turns out the "Universal" kit, didn't have the size I needed. This was a close as I could get and it would not work. :(
Well this is clearly a problem, so off to Autozone I go to see if I can get this fixed. (I also intended to pick up new battery cables and engine block to firewall ground as well).
I get there and explain my situation to the parts guy. He then proceeds to ask if I found it on the website which he says he thought was pretty good after I said it sucked. After three minutes trying to even find it on the computer, he shows me two more "Universal" kits, one of which was for a distributor. :rolleyes: I ask if they have o-rings in the back and he says "Well, kinda but not really. It'll be more gasket type stuff" and when I ask if he could look for me he replies "Itll take to a long time and we can't really do it with just two people here". HA! Long story short, I went in the back (with permission) and looked for myself and found squat.
They also didn't have the flat ground cables there so I said screw it and went home. Was really fed up at that point.
So, what does one do without new rings? That's right, replace what you can and stick it back together and pray it doesn't leak.
Getting it on was harder than getting it off, but it's still completely doable for the at home mechanic. Here's how I did it;
1. Line the OFA up to the block. Remember it's at a small angle towards the passenger wheel.
2. Insert the bolt and get it started with your fingers so you don't strip it. I was able to turn it fairly easily to begin with.
3. Let the filter drop to the side and crawl underneath with your wrench and tighten it up a good bit. Be careful though, the OFA has to point upwards so at some point you will need to align it with that stud. I found it easiest to press towards the block and rotate. Itll fall right into place.
4. Tighten it up the rest of the way.
5. Re-install filter
6. Run engine and check for leaks.
Now, I fixed the initial leak but will be keeping an eye out for the seals I couldn't replace. If it leaks again I will be getting the kit from the dealer and updating this thread with the correct information including the part numbers and where the seals go for my particular application. I promise. :cheers:
Thanks for the lead.. 4.2L here. Changed RMS, Oil Pan Gasket and oil pressure sending unit, but still leaking.... This is the next possible obvious choice.
But the valve covers tend to leak mimicking a rear main seal leak.
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