Floor pan support rails - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 04-09-2012, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
Craft95ZJ
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1986 MJ Comanche 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Slater
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Floor pan support rails

Was going to replace my floor pans over the weekend but turns out I got more rot then rust. Need a good reputable place to order floor pan support rails. I don't really trust ebay. Plus what's a good coating to put on them, I'm not going to be putting carpet in so I was thinking bed liner or por-15 any suggestions would be great.

Thanks


Daily driver '01 TJ 3" RC lift
'86 MJ 3.4L interior rebuild in progress.
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post #2 of 9 Old 04-26-2012, 12:26 AM
dkroll
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Join Date: May 2008
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I am in the same boat, my rail frame reinforcements are not too bad but I drilled out so many spot welds, that I would LOVE to find some new ones instead of my swiss cheese. I have a couple of Comanches and am doing a frame up on one now and would almost kill to find new ones for these projects. Keep me posted on what you end up doing, I am in research of getting some fabricated here in the midwest once I get them presentable for the right shop. A shop that could build these to "specs", could make a lot of money from guys like us!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Doug
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post #3 of 9 Old 04-26-2012, 12:34 AM
dkroll
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I also, would like to hear your thoughts on how you plan to put the floor boards back together. I have thoughts of how I will do it, but I would love to hear a second opinion to see if I am on the right track. I think I know, but maybe I am wrong. The LAST thing I want to do is to do this all over again!

Doug
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post #4 of 9 Old 05-01-2012, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
Craft95ZJ
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This is my first welding project so I'm pretty new at it, so if it seems a bit juvenile, I'm sorry... I take suggestions too.

First off I cut the front top rail support off and sanded the interior part of the frame. I used some rust converter/ protector inside the rail, then I spot welded 16 gauge on top of the frame (15 spot welds or so, more then factory). I cut out front floor pans from inner rocker panel to mid trans housing. I don't have a metal bender so I plan on using an "L" bracket and weld that to the inner rocker panel as I saw that the old sheet metal had bent 90 degrees at the inner rocker. then weld 16 gauge across the "L" bracket back to the top of 16 gauge that I welded on the the frame. Then run 22 gauge halfway down the trans housing hump and run 16 Gauge to the top of the rail from the 22 gauge from the hump. Then sand/grind and bed line. that is my game plan.

Daily driver '01 TJ 3" RC lift
'86 MJ 3.4L interior rebuild in progress.
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post #5 of 9 Old 09-05-2012, 09:27 PM
dkroll
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Take pictures as you go. I would like to see your progress.

Doug
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post #6 of 9 Old 09-08-2012, 08:47 AM
joester1908
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i am also in the same boat. im gonna look in to making some to spec. and also, drilling spot welds is not fun!!!
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post #7 of 9 Old 09-08-2012, 08:05 PM
ftpiercecracker
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Ok ladies and gents, to start with premanufactured floor pans aint cheap. Just google it and you will find a couple of different suppliers. Classic to current is just one company, Sherman is another, like i said Google. If you have to replace both sides you lookin at 200 to 250 ship included. BUT if you have a lot of determination and a lot more cutoff/grinding wheels you can make your own. WARNING: THis is NOT easy, but it can be done. I just finished doing mine this way about 2hrs ago, seriously. I used 3/16 cold roll sheetmetal, WAAY overkill, but it worked out nicely. I picked up all that i needed and then some from a scrap yard for 15 bucks. The decision is yours to make, if you have the money go with the premanufactured.

As for dealing with spot welds get a QUALITY spot weld cutter, Blair to be exact. I was stupid and paid 50 freaking dollars for their "heavy duty" model, ya it worked great for about 25-28 welds and wont break on you, but it DEFINALETLY wasnt worth the price. Especially since replacement heads cost just as much. It wasnt until i was half way done that i found a local Auto Body supplier that carried their basic cutter that i realized it was all i needed. It was $45 for Blair's basic tool, it came with a 2 sided bit, and 3 replacement heads. 4 heads = 8 cutting sides = approx 260 welds, JUST BE CAREFUL these spot weld cutters work really REALLY well. The only downside is they break extremely easily, so dont tilt you drill to the side or get it in a bind, just push straight down with little to moderate pressure. If your drill has a low torque setting use it and go at about HALF throttle. This is what i found works best.

For finding spot welds, ya, it can be pretty frustrating when the metal is completed rusted over and you have no way to distinguish what is and what isnt a weld. The only thing i can tell you for this is to just drill out the ones you can see clearly. Once that is done pry up on the metal until you can see where it is being held down next, this is the next spot weld needed to be drilled out. And if all else fails, cut out the metal above the frame rail, LEAVEING the spotwelded strip ontop, use a grinding wheel to basically grind away the strip until you get to the frame rail below.

For coating purposes I have heard great things about POR-15, Google it. I used a liberal amount of some stuff called Permatex: Rust Treatment, followed by a two coats of black tractor paint. The Permatex can be found at your Auto Parts store and the Tractor paint at TCS, Lowes, Howe depot, etc.

When the time comes to start welding your new floor pans into place, i would recommend using .023 wire, 75/25 gas mix, and somebody who has at least some experience in mig welding, as "blow through" will be your enemy #1.

I would post some pictures of my project, but the computer i use to do that is in the "shop", unfortuatelly that is one of the few things i cant fix.

hope this helps fellas
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post #8 of 9 Old 09-09-2012, 01:54 PM
dkroll
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Okay, here is my latest idea;
I am currently cutting out all the "bad" stuff on the floor panel, I have decided that When I cut up my new floor pans for patching, I am going to leave the whole frame channel open on the top. I am not going to weld any floor pan to the frame itself, it will only go to the inside edge of the frame thus "open-frame". I plan to go ahead and weld all other sides of my patches (i.e.. on rocker panels, and sides of patches), then grind all welds down and make them pretty. Once all is "pretty", I will get some thick sheets of metal and cut them and bend them to fit flat on top of the frame- then either just use self-tapping screws or weld threaded rod on these pieces and just bolt them in on the frame . This way, I can get future access into the frame if ever need be.
I will then need to fabricate bolts into these sheets for whatever seat brackets I choose. By doing this, I can properly seal any area where water/moisture can get in these areas which caused the rust in the first place.!
I will post pictures once my floor patches are in. Should look as good as factory- except my frame supports will be "removable" if needed, PLUS,,, There is no other way to put this all back together (like the factory did), without just another channel for rust that you can't get to and have to do all of this again!! NEVER!!!!





Better than new.

P.S. This idea is best if you don't want to deal with spot welds for the floor pans ever again!
I hate those spot welds!!! (also)!

Doug
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post #9 of 9 Old 09-11-2012, 01:54 PM
dkroll
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here is what I did this morning.;
Attached Thumbnails
Photo0206.jpg  

Doug
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