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Unread 10-12-2012, 06:37 PM   #1
JeepComanche89
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1989 MJ Comanche 
 
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Driveshafts

Ok, so i just converted my MJ to 4 wheel. Dana 30 front, dana 44 rear. And i also swapped in a new AX-15 trans with NP-231 t case. My question is what to do about the drive shafts. Do i bother trying to mess with the multiple ones i have, or just go to a driveshaft shop and have the truck measured and custom made. What do you think is the most logical option for DD,in and no heavy wheeling?


Last edited by JeepComanche89; 10-12-2012 at 06:42 PM.. Reason: Typo
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Unread 10-12-2012, 08:54 PM   #2
mj40
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89 to a 90 cherokee drivetrain 6ft bed
my shaft came from a 2 door s-15 blazer, was a good fit for stock height and a 242 t-case..as i lifted it i switched the yoke to a fullsize c1500 cause it was a few inches longer and still fit the t-case..
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Unread 10-13-2012, 06:59 AM   #3
JeepComanche89
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Thanks for answering, i totatly for got to mention its a 6 ft bed, and i have a 4.5 rusty's lift. I didn't do the slip yoke eliminator yet, so should i use my 1" t case drop, or not even bother. Does this effect the driveshaft size much or no?
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Unread 10-13-2012, 08:41 PM   #4
mj40
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here's what i did/build..link may/or may not be allowed...
http://comancheclub.com/topic/22066-...o/page__st__60
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Unread 10-14-2012, 07:12 AM   #5
JeepComanche89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mj40
here's what i did/build..link may/or may not be allowed...
http://comancheclub.com/topic/22066-...o/page__st__60
Ok, kind of confused, where did u get the shaft?
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Unread 10-14-2012, 02:59 PM   #6
mj40
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the first shaft came from a 90's s15 blazer 2door 4x4, the other was a late 88-90's chevy 1500 extended cab 2wd had the longer yoke for the t-case end..
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Unread 10-14-2012, 06:31 PM   #7
JeepComanche89
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Ok, think i got it. I have the driveshafts from the truck with the d 44 in it, and i have that t case in my truck now as well. So wouldent that work if it was cut down (came from a long bed). How did you determine the length with the lift?
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Unread 10-14-2012, 06:52 PM   #8
mj40
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your local driveshaft/machine shop should be able to help you as well.

i had a spare yoke for the t-case so i measured for the ujoint to ujoint and took a rough guess at it by centering the yoke in the t-case so it gave me room for the driveshaft to extend or compress with suspension travel..

yes it would be easier and cheaper just to have the driveshaft cut down to fit..
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Unread 10-14-2012, 06:55 PM   #9
JeepComanche89
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Gotcha, thanks for all the help.
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Unread 11-19-2012, 12:36 PM   #10
JeepComanche89
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Im posting in this thread instead of starting a new one. So im now in need of a rear driveshaft, and torn between two options. A tom woods conventional driveshaft, or have my existing driveshaft shortened? The tom woods would be $300 maximum (according to employee), would it be cheaper to get the stock one i have shortened? If anyone has had experience with getting a driveshaft shortened/ tube replaced please let me know.
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Unread 11-20-2012, 04:13 PM   #11
Pete M
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shortening and balancing a driveshaft seems to be 100-150 assuming yours in good shape. hard to be the awesomeness of a tom woods driveshaft though if you can afford it.
__________________
-88 MJ; 4.0L, ex-2wd, TJ ax15/231, 78 Ford D44 w/spool, 9" w/posi, 33" trXus MTs, custom roll-bar/bumpers/etc.
Also an 86 MJ Metric ton and 2 '90 MJs
Projects/wheelin' pics: picturetrail.com/petermontie
My email: petermontie@hotmail.com
ComancheClub.com/forums
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Unread 11-20-2012, 06:26 PM   #12
JeepComanche89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete M
shortening and balancing a driveshaft seems to be 100-150 assuming yours in good shape. hard to be the awesomeness of a tom woods driveshaft though if you can afford it.
Hmm that is quite a difference then. I would love to have a tom woods but it still would be a conventional shaft, no carden.

What do you mean by in good shape. Using existing tube versus replacing?

Thanks for answering
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Unread 11-20-2012, 06:54 PM   #13
Pete M
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"good shape" meaning not dented, bent or too rusty. also, the rubber isolator in a tube-in-a-tube style stock shaft can go bad and get mushy. plus not all shops will touch it.

nothing wrong with a conventional shaft. Comanches don't really have much need for a double cardon anyway. our longer wheelbase makes for lesser angles and less chance of vibrations.
__________________
-88 MJ; 4.0L, ex-2wd, TJ ax15/231, 78 Ford D44 w/spool, 9" w/posi, 33" trXus MTs, custom roll-bar/bumpers/etc.
Also an 86 MJ Metric ton and 2 '90 MJs
Projects/wheelin' pics: picturetrail.com/petermontie
My email: petermontie@hotmail.com
ComancheClub.com/forums
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Unread 11-20-2012, 06:59 PM   #14
JeepComanche89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete M
"good shape" meaning not dented, bent or too rusty. also, the rubber isolator in a tube-in-a-tube style stock shaft can go bad and get mushy. plus not all shops will touch it.

nothing wrong with a conventional shaft. Comanches don't really have much need for a double cardon anyway. our longer wheelbase makes for lesser angles and less chance of vibrations.
Gotcha, i just read it wrong. Yeah i just have a regular shaft, no tube in tube. I was thinking of going a conventional shaft to save $. Now that im thinking about it Maybe ill just get mine shortened, then if i get vibes, i dropped less money then a t woods.
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Unread 11-20-2012, 07:04 PM   #15
Pete M
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1988 MJ Comanche 
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: S/E Michigan
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make sure to use new u-joints.
__________________
-88 MJ; 4.0L, ex-2wd, TJ ax15/231, 78 Ford D44 w/spool, 9" w/posi, 33" trXus MTs, custom roll-bar/bumpers/etc.
Also an 86 MJ Metric ton and 2 '90 MJs
Projects/wheelin' pics: picturetrail.com/petermontie
My email: petermontie@hotmail.com
ComancheClub.com/forums
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