Driveshafts - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 10-12-2012, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
JeepComanche89
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Driveshafts

Ok, so i just converted my MJ to 4 wheel. Dana 30 front, dana 44 rear. And i also swapped in a new AX-15 trans with NP-231 t case. My question is what to do about the drive shafts. Do i bother trying to mess with the multiple ones i have, or just go to a driveshaft shop and have the truck measured and custom made. What do you think is the most logical option for DD,in and no heavy wheeling?


Last edited by JeepComanche89; 10-12-2012 at 06:42 PM. Reason: Typo
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post #2 of 20 Old 10-12-2012, 08:54 PM
mj40
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89 to a 90 cherokee drivetrain 6ft bed
my shaft came from a 2 door s-15 blazer, was a good fit for stock height and a 242 t-case..as i lifted it i switched the yoke to a fullsize c1500 cause it was a few inches longer and still fit the t-case..
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post #3 of 20 Old 10-13-2012, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
JeepComanche89
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Thanks for answering, i totatly for got to mention its a 6 ft bed, and i have a 4.5 rusty's lift. I didn't do the slip yoke eliminator yet, so should i use my 1" t case drop, or not even bother. Does this effect the driveshaft size much or no?
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post #4 of 20 Old 10-13-2012, 08:41 PM
mj40
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here's what i did/build..link may/or may not be allowed...
http://comancheclub.com/topic/22066-...o/page__st__60
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post #5 of 20 Old 10-14-2012, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
JeepComanche89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mj40
here's what i did/build..link may/or may not be allowed...
http://comancheclub.com/topic/22066-...o/page__st__60
Ok, kind of confused, where did u get the shaft?
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post #6 of 20 Old 10-14-2012, 02:59 PM
mj40
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the first shaft came from a 90's s15 blazer 2door 4x4, the other was a late 88-90's chevy 1500 extended cab 2wd had the longer yoke for the t-case end..
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post #7 of 20 Old 10-14-2012, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
JeepComanche89
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Ok, think i got it. I have the driveshafts from the truck with the d 44 in it, and i have that t case in my truck now as well. So wouldent that work if it was cut down (came from a long bed). How did you determine the length with the lift?
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post #8 of 20 Old 10-14-2012, 06:52 PM
mj40
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your local driveshaft/machine shop should be able to help you as well.

i had a spare yoke for the t-case so i measured for the ujoint to ujoint and took a rough guess at it by centering the yoke in the t-case so it gave me room for the driveshaft to extend or compress with suspension travel..

yes it would be easier and cheaper just to have the driveshaft cut down to fit..
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post #9 of 20 Old 10-14-2012, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
JeepComanche89
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Gotcha, thanks for all the help.
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post #10 of 20 Old 11-19-2012, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
JeepComanche89
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Im posting in this thread instead of starting a new one. So im now in need of a rear driveshaft, and torn between two options. A tom woods conventional driveshaft, or have my existing driveshaft shortened? The tom woods would be $300 maximum (according to employee), would it be cheaper to get the stock one i have shortened? If anyone has had experience with getting a driveshaft shortened/ tube replaced please let me know.
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post #11 of 20 Old 11-20-2012, 04:13 PM
Pete M
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shortening and balancing a driveshaft seems to be 100-150 assuming yours in good shape. hard to be the awesomeness of a tom woods driveshaft though if you can afford it.

-88 MJ; 4.0L, ex-2wd, TJ ax15/231, 78 Ford D44 w/spool, 9" w/posi, 33" trXus MTs, custom roll-bar/bumpers/etc.
Also an 86 MJ Metric ton and 2 '90 MJs
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My email: petermontie@hotmail.com
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post #12 of 20 Old 11-20-2012, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
JeepComanche89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete M
shortening and balancing a driveshaft seems to be 100-150 assuming yours in good shape. hard to be the awesomeness of a tom woods driveshaft though if you can afford it.
Hmm that is quite a difference then. I would love to have a tom woods but it still would be a conventional shaft, no carden.

What do you mean by in good shape. Using existing tube versus replacing?

Thanks for answering
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post #13 of 20 Old 11-20-2012, 06:54 PM
Pete M
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"good shape" meaning not dented, bent or too rusty. also, the rubber isolator in a tube-in-a-tube style stock shaft can go bad and get mushy. plus not all shops will touch it.

nothing wrong with a conventional shaft. Comanches don't really have much need for a double cardon anyway. our longer wheelbase makes for lesser angles and less chance of vibrations.

-88 MJ; 4.0L, ex-2wd, TJ ax15/231, 78 Ford D44 w/spool, 9" w/posi, 33" trXus MTs, custom roll-bar/bumpers/etc.
Also an 86 MJ Metric ton and 2 '90 MJs
Projects/wheelin' pics: picturetrail.com/petermontie
My email: petermontie@hotmail.com
ComancheClub.com/forums
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post #14 of 20 Old 11-20-2012, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
JeepComanche89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete M
"good shape" meaning not dented, bent or too rusty. also, the rubber isolator in a tube-in-a-tube style stock shaft can go bad and get mushy. plus not all shops will touch it.

nothing wrong with a conventional shaft. Comanches don't really have much need for a double cardon anyway. our longer wheelbase makes for lesser angles and less chance of vibrations.
Gotcha, i just read it wrong. Yeah i just have a regular shaft, no tube in tube. I was thinking of going a conventional shaft to save $. Now that im thinking about it Maybe ill just get mine shortened, then if i get vibes, i dropped less money then a t woods.
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post #15 of 20 Old 11-20-2012, 07:04 PM
Pete M
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make sure to use new u-joints.

-88 MJ; 4.0L, ex-2wd, TJ ax15/231, 78 Ford D44 w/spool, 9" w/posi, 33" trXus MTs, custom roll-bar/bumpers/etc.
Also an 86 MJ Metric ton and 2 '90 MJs
Projects/wheelin' pics: picturetrail.com/petermontie
My email: petermontie@hotmail.com
ComancheClub.com/forums
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